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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:41:23 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryThis is why barns are supposed to have barn doors. 
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:43:34 PM EDT
[#2]
What about the garage doors that open to the side instead of up?
Like this. https://www.accessgaragedoors.com/side-hinged-garage-doors/ |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:44:26 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think cutting either top or bottom strut would take all the strength of the beam out. It would basically reduce to the strength of just the thickness of one of the metal struts. Don't do it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/346870/A3DD07D9-5577-4565-B849-E1A46EE55147_jpe-2005497.JPG That’s what I’m worried about but I’m wondering in welding a plate on each side as a gusset would fix it |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:44:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What about the garage doors that open to the side instead of up? I already have the doors |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:46:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I already have the doors Yeah well they dont work. So get new ones.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:46:48 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Roll up door isn't gonna work, it needs to look residential Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Be much easier to put in a roll up door. Roll up door isn't gonna work, it needs to look residential how residential does it need to look?  
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:46:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah well they dont work. So get new ones. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I already have the doors Yeah well they dont work. So get new ones. LoL |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:47:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Just unbolt the track and put it thru the opening in the truss. Why do you need to cut anything?
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:47:59 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Be much easier to put in a roll up door. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:48:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture?
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:48:42 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I already have the doors |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:50:09 PM EDT
[#12]
You should have hired someone that knows what they are doing.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:50:32 PM EDT
[#13]
If a man on the side of a cliff is hanging onto a rope, how far above the man do you have to cut the rope so he doesn't fall to the bottom of the canyon?
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:54:57 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture? 
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:55:04 PM EDT
[#15]
I’m more perplexed by the plywood and I’m assuming shingle roof being supported by those trusses and purlins.
Those pole barn trusses barely support the metal roofing down here.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:55:30 PM EDT
[#16]
How tall is that door ,like 14 ft. Just comparing By the mandoor in the pic.
If it is, I don't think there would even be enough room above the header for a roll up. My roll up 8x8 need 16 or 18 inches above the header. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:56:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: if you can tell in the pic, the top of the track needs to go up 8", it's a bad pic I know. that's what you are asking? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: How much interference? What you should do is add a truss on either side located to clear the doors. Just one if it's not too far. If the segment barely interferes, then the truss could be modified with a dog leg and gussets. If there is a ton of interference you could add a chord parallel to the one you want to cut, full length from the lower end to the mid span. I would add two, one on each side to maintain symmetry. (Prevent racking.) The connections to the diagonals will be the trick. You absolutely do not want to cut that element out without replacing the load path. From the bottom chord i need 8” and the height of the truss is 21” The next question: Where is the interference? At the joint with a diagonal? Near the center? How wide is the door rail? I have an idea that might not be too obnoxious to install depending on the location of the interference, and simpler than what I suggested above. This stuff always depends on the details. . if you can tell in the pic, the top of the track needs to go up 8", it's a bad pic I know. that's what you are asking? That's fine, I wasn't certain that was the track. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:56:47 PM EDT
[#18]
This is definitely going to require some busch lite and a plasma torch, but here's what I'd do-
Get drunk, play with my new wizard cutter and leave it alone. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:57:45 PM EDT
[#19]
Has OP cut that bitch out yet?
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:58:22 PM EDT
[#20]
 super low headroom garage door OP, look at this vid. This is a super low or no headroom install. We did a few of these here and there. You should have some options in the low headroom tracks and brackets available but it may involve someone in the business coming out if you cant source the stuff. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:58:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Looking at the photo of where the track transitions from vertical to horizontal, is it possible to lower the radius to start just above the top roller of the door? You may not gain all eight inches, but at least the angle at the truss won’t be so acute. Of course both tracks would need to be modified the same.
Edit: the video above looks like the safest way, if you have enough attachment points for the motor drive stress. The transitioning top track hinge is the key element. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:59:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i need the height You clearly don't have it.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:59:45 PM EDT
[#23]
I warned you about that damned thing.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 6:59:56 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m more perplexed by the plywood and I’m assuming shingle roof being supported by those trusses and purlins. Those pole barn trusses barely support the metal roofing down here. trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:00:09 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How tall is that door ,like 14 ft. Just comparing By the mandoor in the pic. If it is, I don't think there would even be enough room above the header for a roll up. My roll up 8x8 need 16 or 18 inches above the header. door is 13'6" |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:00:55 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture? This is what I was thinking, lower the other track to match. Only downfall I can see is having to tilt opener track to match (if you use one). |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:01:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You clearly don't have it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: i need the height You clearly don't have it. obviously
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:01:40 PM EDT
[#28]
Can you lower the track by 1/2 door panel and hinge the top panel to louver out of the way? You would have to build the mechanism but it wouldn’t be too hard. The rest of the door would just slide up and behind the top one.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:02:18 PM EDT
[#29]
Do not cut that bottom member it is in tension....modify the garage tracks....
Going back to my statics class in college, every node of that truss has forces going in and out of it.... |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:02:41 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is what I was thinking, lower the other track to match. Only downfall I can see is having to tilt opener track to match (if you use one). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture? This is what I was thinking, lower the other track to match. Only downfall I can see is having to tilt opener track to match (if you use one). it will work dangling like that and I am going to use side mounted openers for the door. The problem is going to be when the door is fully opened the rear is going to be like 12'6" from the floor. So I basically loose a foot |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:03:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Leave the track as-is, and add a jackshaft opener. Going to be much cheaper and less of a PITA than trying to cut and re-weld that truss.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:03:43 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do not cut that bottom member it is in tension....modify the garage tracks.... Going back to my statics class in college, every node of that truss has forces going in and out of it.... yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension!  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:04:06 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Leave the track as-is, and add a jackshaft opener. Going to be much cheaper and less of a PITA than trying to cut and re-weld that truss. the reason behind butting the truss is to get the height on the back end of the door. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:04:20 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: it will work dangling like that and I am going to use side mounted openers for the door. The problem is going to be when the door is fully opened the rear is going to be like 12'6" from the floor. So I basically loose a foot Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture? This is what I was thinking, lower the other track to match. Only downfall I can see is having to tilt opener track to match (if you use one). it will work dangling like that and I am going to use side mounted openers for the door. The problem is going to be when the door is fully opened the rear is going to be like 12'6" from the floor. So I basically loose a foot Sidemount openers need weight on the cables if you want them to work. The tracks will have to be tilted up in the back to acomplish this and if your using the #8500 you might want to get pusher springs on top of that. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:04:50 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO Not if you cut them. 
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:04:51 PM EDT
[#36]
Pretty good troll thread we got going here
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:05:44 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sidemount openers need weight on the cables if you want them to work. The tracks will have to be tilted up in the back to acomplish this and if your using the #8500 you might want to get pusher springs on top of that. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Well, I have the same problem in part of the building that I rent. The tracks angle down at the end. It definitely loses a few inches of height but that wasn't an issue for me. Maybe you can just leave them angled down like in your picture? This is what I was thinking, lower the other track to match. Only downfall I can see is having to tilt opener track to match (if you use one). it will work dangling like that and I am going to use side mounted openers for the door. The problem is going to be when the door is fully opened the rear is going to be like 12'6" from the floor. So I basically loose a foot Sidemount openers need weight on the cables if you want them to work. The tracks will have to be tilted up in the back to acomplish this and if your using the #8500 you might want to get pusher springs on top of that. interesting. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:05:59 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not if you cut them. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO Not if you cut them. BIG PLATE GUSSETS! |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:06:37 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pretty good troll thread we got going here Im seriously not trolling, I knew this was going to be a issue, but I am trying to engineering a soloution. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:06:53 PM EDT
[#40]
I feel like your best bet is modifying the door instead of the truss. Like the others said, is there a way to lower the track down and still make the door work?
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:06:57 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’m more perplexed by the plywood and I’m assuming shingle roof being supported by those trusses and purlins. Those pole barn trusses barely support the metal roofing down here. trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO Ask the truss company to get you a repair on them then. I do it more than I should on houses. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:08:26 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I feel like your best bet is modifying the door instead of the truss. Like the others said, is there a way to lower the track down and still make the door work? the rear tracks as they are going to work but they are lower than what I need them to be |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:08:39 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ask the truss company to get you a repair on them then. I do it more than I should on houses. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I’m more perplexed by the plywood and I’m assuming shingle roof being supported by those trusses and purlins. Those pole barn trusses barely support the metal roofing down here. trusses were special made for the dead load/live load and are up to code in my AO Ask the truss company to get you a repair on them then. I do it more than I should on houses. sucks they are like 4 hours away |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:09:05 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: the reason behind butting the truss is to get the height on the back end of the door. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Leave the track as-is, and add a jackshaft opener. Going to be much cheaper and less of a PITA than trying to cut and re-weld that truss. the reason behind butting the truss is to get the height on the back end of the door. Using the truss as the pivot, lowering at the radius end will raise the open end of the track. Still may not be at desired 14’ but definitely higher than the 12’. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:10:09 PM EDT
[#45]
The correct answer here is low headroom track and trolley openers.
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:10:58 PM EDT
[#46]
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:11:03 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Using the truss as the pivot, lowering at the radius end will raise the open end of the track. Still may not be at desired 14’ but definitely higher than the 12’. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Leave the track as-is, and add a jackshaft opener. Going to be much cheaper and less of a PITA than trying to cut and re-weld that truss. the reason behind butting the truss is to get the height on the back end of the door. Using the truss as the pivot, lowering at the radius end will raise the open end of the track. Still may not be at desired 14’ but definitely higher than the 12’. ??? |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:11:20 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Im seriously not trolling, I knew this was going to be a issue, but I am trying to engineering a soloution. Probably should talk to whomever engineered the truss to start with. |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:11:59 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG |
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Posted: 7/7/2021 7:13:15 PM EDT
[#50]
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