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Halp ... is it true that 120V transfer switches are generally not made for residential applications? That's the word I am getting from my electrician (who I have used in the past multiple times and who I consider reputable).
Background: my home is 120V for everything except the well pump and grinder pump (which is 240V). My "solution" was to do things the ARF way -- GET BOTH. The plan was to have (1) a 240V interlock ; and (2) a separate 120V transfer switch for the "essentials" (fridges and blower for oil fired HVAC). Two generators -- one 240V and one 120V -- would then be deployed based on the length of the outage (240V being used rarely as I have a decent backup water supply and chemical toilets). Talked it through with my electrician and he said he could do it, subject to parts availability. The 240V interlock is already installed. Fast forward a few months and now he just said there aren't any 120V transfer panels made for residential. First, I may be getting this completely wrong but there seem to be a lot of 120V/240V transfer switches listed online (e.g. here and even at big box stores like Home Depot). Second, if there aren't any 120V transfer panels for residential, why didn't that topic come up a few months ago? NB I haven't bought a generator yet, but still have my eye out for a Honda EU3200i for the 120V one. Most likely will go with a Champion 100719 (8500W) inverter for the 240V generator but am considering a HF Predator as well. Thanks! |
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NRA and GOA Life member
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Triple Tap.
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Originally Posted By stockshift: Halp ... is it true that 120V transfer switches are generally not made for residential applications? That's the word I am getting from my electrician (who I have used in the past multiple times and who I consider reputable). Background: my home is 120V for everything except the well pump and grinder pump (which is 240V). My "solution" was to do things the ARF way -- GET BOTH. The plan was to have (1) a 240V interlock ; and (2) a separate 120V transfer switch for the "essentials" (fridges and blower for oil fired HVAC). Two generators -- one 240V and one 120V -- would then be deployed based on the length of the outage (240V being used rarely as I have a decent backup water supply and chemical toilets). Talked it through with my electrician and he said he could do it, subject to parts availability. The 240V interlock is already installed. Fast forward a few months and now he just said there aren't any 120V transfer panels made for residential. First, I may be getting this completely wrong but there seem to be a lot of 120V/240V transfer switches listed online (e.g. here and even at big box stores like Home Depot). Second, if there aren't any 120V transfer panels for residential, why didn't that topic come up a few months ago? NB I haven't bought a generator yet, but still have my eye out for a Honda EU3200i for the 120V one. Most likely will go with a Champion 100719 (8500W) inverter for the 240V generator but am considering a HF Predator as well. Thanks! View Quote I did exactly this. I have a Goal Zero 4 Circuit. The description is back a few pages on 95. It’s nice because I can power the 4 circuits with a solar generator or 2200 Westinghouse if I don’t want hook up the big generator. https://www.goalzero.com/products/yeti-home-integration-kit |
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Originally Posted By Kanati: It really depends on what you're after. The smaller unit is very quiet and great for being portable, but if you're just looking for a home emergency power source then that 4kw open frame is damn hard to beat. View Quote Was looking at that one for my RV. Was kinda torn between that and the smaller closed frame inverter one. My RV has a single roof mount air conditioner, 13,500 btu, draws 14 amps while running. Not sure what the startup surge is on it, tho. Or if it has a start capacitor to help. The smaller closed frame WEN inverter generator can handle 15.8 amps running and 19 amps surge. Advertised. The bigger one would definitely work and its cheaper to boot... but I don't want to get the larger, heavier, louder one if I don't have to. |
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Was looking at that one for my RV. Was kinda torn between that and the smaller closed frame inverter one. My RV has a single roof mount air conditioner, 13,500 btu, draws 14 amps while running. Not sure what the startup surge is on it, tho. Or if it has a start capacitor to help. The smaller closed frame WEN inverter generator can handle 15.8 amps running and 19 amps surge. Advertised. The bigger one would definitely work and its cheaper to boot... but I don't want to get the larger, heavier, louder one if I don't have to. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Originally Posted By Kanati: It really depends on what you're after. The smaller unit is very quiet and great for being portable, but if you're just looking for a home emergency power source then that 4kw open frame is damn hard to beat. Was looking at that one for my RV. Was kinda torn between that and the smaller closed frame inverter one. My RV has a single roof mount air conditioner, 13,500 btu, draws 14 amps while running. Not sure what the startup surge is on it, tho. Or if it has a start capacitor to help. The smaller closed frame WEN inverter generator can handle 15.8 amps running and 19 amps surge. Advertised. The bigger one would definitely work and its cheaper to boot... but I don't want to get the larger, heavier, louder one if I don't have to. At home you can point it at the woods and lean a sheet of plywood against it in between it and the house and you don't have to care as much about noise. |
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Originally Posted By Kanati: Definitely get the closed frame for RV camping. The walls are thin and you can hear the genset, and all of your neighbors will appreciate it. At home you can point it at the woods and lean a sheet of plywood against it in between it and the house and you don't have to care as much about noise. View Quote Is it going to have enough muscle to start and run that rooftop AC unit tho? |
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Originally Posted By stockshift: Halp ... is it true that 120V transfer switches are generally not made for residential applications? That's the word I am getting from my electrician (who I have used in the past multiple times and who I consider reputable). Background: my home is 120V for everything except the well pump and grinder pump (which is 240V). My "solution" was to do things the ARF way -- GET BOTH. The plan was to have (1) a 240V interlock ; and (2) a separate 120V transfer switch for the "essentials" (fridges and blower for oil fired HVAC). Two generators -- one 240V and one 120V -- would then be deployed based on the length of the outage (240V being used rarely as I have a decent backup water supply and chemical toilets). Talked it through with my electrician and he said he could do it, subject to parts availability. The 240V interlock is already installed. Fast forward a few months and now he just said there aren't any 120V transfer panels made for residential. First, I may be getting this completely wrong but there seem to be a lot of 120V/240V transfer switches listed online (e.g. here and even at big box stores like Home Depot). Second, if there aren't any 120V transfer panels for residential, why didn't that topic come up a few months ago? NB I haven't bought a generator yet, but still have my eye out for a Honda EU3200i for the 120V one. Most likely will go with a Champion 100719 (8500W) inverter for the 240V generator but am considering a HF Predator as well. Thanks! View Quote There are numerous 240/120 on the market automatic and manual. This one has the breakers/load panel in it- Load panel and transfer switch Just the transfer switch transfer switch These tend to be pricey, but you can find any number of 240/120 manual transfer switches on the market. Wire a plug like this one to the generator side. You can also find them in manual forms. Given what you want to do with a 120 and a 240 volt generator, I'd recommend the manual version. You can then use one of these RV plug, to hook up the 120 generator when you don't need the 240. One note, I don't know what size generator you're using so size cables plugs etc accordingly. The transfer switch will have to match the size your breaker panel now, the generator can be undersized. |
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"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
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Costco $200 off. Sale just started. Been wanting a dual fuel forever...
https://www.costco.com/firman-3200w-running--4000w-peak-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.product.100843922.html?qid=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b&cjevent=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b |
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For our struggle is not against flesh and blood, but against the rulers, against the powers, against the world forces of this darkness, against the spiritual forces of wickedness in the heavenly places.
-Ephesians 6:12 |
Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Is it going to have enough muscle to start and run that rooftop AC unit tho? View Quote I have the 2000w and 3800W Wen generators. We take the bigger one camping when we know we will need the AC. It runs it fine, just don’t turn on the microwave when the AC starts up |
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Originally Posted By stockshift: Halp ... is it true that 120V transfer switches are generally not made for residential applications? That's the word I am getting from my electrician (who I have used in the past multiple times and who I consider reputable). Background: my home is 120V for everything except the well pump and grinder pump (which is 240V). My "solution" was to do things the ARF way -- GET BOTH. The plan was to have (1) a 240V interlock ; and (2) a separate 120V transfer switch for the "essentials" (fridges and blower for oil fired HVAC). Two generators -- one 240V and one 120V -- would then be deployed based on the length of the outage (240V being used rarely as I have a decent backup water supply and chemical toilets). Talked it through with my electrician and he said he could do it, subject to parts availability. The 240V interlock is already installed. Fast forward a few months and now he just said there aren't any 120V transfer panels made for residential. First, I may be getting this completely wrong but there seem to be a lot of 120V/240V transfer switches listed online (e.g. here and even at big box stores like Home Depot). Second, if there aren't any 120V transfer panels for residential, why didn't that topic come up a few months ago? NB I haven't bought a generator yet, but still have my eye out for a Honda EU3200i for the 120V one. Most likely will go with a Champion 100719 (8500W) inverter for the 240V generator but am considering a HF Predator as well. Thanks! View Quote Use a single30 amp inlet for both. Make a hot-hot crossover cable for the 120 volt generator. |
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Originally Posted By Zhukov: I'm using an adapter but I'm kind of OCD. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Zhukov: Originally Posted By wesr228: Any reason why you just wouldn't do an adapter? I know it's one more thing to keep up with, but seems a lot easier then going in for surgery. I'm using an adapter but I'm kind of OCD. It seems to me that you currently have the best of both worlds with the adapter. You have both type plugs available. If you convert the panel won't you have to buy another adapter for the alternate plug style? |
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You can lead a liberal to knowledge, but you can't make him think.
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Was looking at that one for my RV. Was kinda torn between that and the smaller closed frame inverter one. My RV has a single roof mount air conditioner, 13,500 btu, draws 14 amps while running. Not sure what the startup surge is on it, tho. Or if it has a start capacitor to help. The smaller closed frame WEN inverter generator can handle 15.8 amps running and 19 amps surge. Advertised. The bigger one would definitely work and its cheaper to boot... but I don't want to get the larger, heavier, louder one if I don't have to. View Quote Speaking from experience: You can barely run the AC with a 2200W inverter - or at least mine did. It's completely maxed out with that load though and I assume it's probably a rough start for the AC. Personally, I would advise against it. |
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Daddy loves you. Now go away.
Ruthless ruler of cubicle B300.2C.983 |
Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Is it going to have enough muscle to start and run that rooftop AC unit tho? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Originally Posted By Kanati: Definitely get the closed frame for RV camping. The walls are thin and you can hear the genset, and all of your neighbors will appreciate it. At home you can point it at the woods and lean a sheet of plywood against it in between it and the house and you don't have to care as much about noise. Is it going to have enough muscle to start and run that rooftop AC unit tho? There are a couple of 100cc units out there rated for 2500-2700. I have one and it seems to pull the AC well enough as long as nothing else is going. Honestly if I were buying new for the purpose of an RV, I'd look at the next size up. The 3500ish closed frame inverters, like the dual fuel Costco Firman unit above will pull most RV AC's just fine. In general with power, you never want to exceed 80% of your max capacity, so buy bigger than you need. |
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Originally Posted By Kanati: The answer is "Maybe" on the 80cc units. There are a couple of 100cc units out there rated for 2500-2700. I have one and it seems to pull the AC well enough as long as nothing else is going. Honestly if I were buying new for the purpose of an RV, I'd look at the next size up. The 3500ish closed frame inverters, like the dual fuel Costco Firman unit above will pull most RV AC's just fine. In general with power, you never want to exceed 80% of your max capacity, so buy bigger than you need. View Quote That is good advice. |
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Let us never forget, government has no resources of its own. Government can only give to us what it has previously taken from us.
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Originally Posted By BayEagle: Costco $200 off. Sale just started. Been wanting a dual fuel forever... https://www.costco.com/firman-3200w-running--4000w-peak-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.product.100843922.html?qid=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b&cjevent=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b https://images.costco-static.com/ImageDelivery/imageService?profileId=12026540&itemId=2322024-847&recipeName=680 View Quote I have this on the front of my travel trailer on a rack above the propane tanks. It is plumbed straight to the second propane tank and works fantastic. I have never put gas in it. |
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Originally Posted By Kanati: The answer is "Maybe" on the 80cc units. There are a couple of 100cc units out there rated for 2500-2700. I have one and it seems to pull the AC well enough as long as nothing else is going. Honestly if I were buying new for the purpose of an RV, I'd look at the next size up. The 3500ish closed frame inverters, like the dual fuel Costco Firman unit above will pull most RV AC's just fine. In general with power, you never want to exceed 80% of your max capacity, so buy bigger than you need. View Quote I have a couple of Yamaha 2000w inverter generators with a 30amp adapter receptacle. I could barely get my Coleman 15,000 to work and only in the normal running mode. So no eco mode. Running anything else at the same time would trip the overload. Not sure what the combined watts running are on the two gens connected. I think I would need closer to 4,500watts running or more to be comfortable. Or get one of the soft start capacitors |
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Best new generators 2023!! New Generators Never before seen !! EFI and More… GenMax coming out with new generators. Not only can you run them in parallel, you can run them in series. So you can hook up two 120v generators and get 240v. Pretty cool. |
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Bad info - deleted
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Daddy loves you. Now go away.
Ruthless ruler of cubicle B300.2C.983 |
Originally Posted By Kanati: The answer is "Maybe" on the 80cc units. There are a couple of 100cc units out there rated for 2500-2700. I have one and it seems to pull the AC well enough as long as nothing else is going. Honestly if I were buying new for the purpose of an RV, I'd look at the next size up. The 3500ish closed frame inverters, like the dual fuel Costco Firman unit above will pull most RV AC's just fine. In general with power, you never want to exceed 80% of your max capacity, so buy bigger than you need. View Quote Thanks. I appreciate the gut check. I will go with a 3500 or 4kw unit as A/C is a must and regular use thing for this RV. Also factoring in the freezer/fridge which is dual electric or propane, I'd prefer to generally run it on electricity. Which even if one of these 2kw units would run the A/C, every time the fridge compressor kicked on, the surge from that would probably stall out the generator. |
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Originally Posted By Kanin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lilETThA-20 GenMax coming out with new generators. Not only can you run them in parallel, you can run them in series. So you can hook up two 120v generators and get 240v. Pretty cool. View Quote Those are pretty cool! Dang, Between then 120/240 option and an ATS that may be affordable, I may joining the Genmax club! Champion, why you slipping!! |
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Factory refurbished 2kw inverter generator for $255 + tax on eBay with promo code REFURBSAVINGS through 3/27/2023. Can't comment on quality, etc as I don't have one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313964135712 |
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Originally Posted By kcr121: Factory refurbished 2kw inverter generator for $255 + tax on eBay with promo code REFURBSAVINGS through 3/27/2023. Can't comment on quality, etc as I don't have one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313964135712 View Quote I already have a generator in that size, though it is certainly worth considering. FWIW, the seller appears to be Firman themselves. |
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Brought our (new to us) travel trailer home tonight. Looking to pick up a generator for it. Seller recommended the 3500w Harbor Freight Predator inverter generator. I see these are currently $899.
HF linky here Rather than read 100 pages...recommendations for a better generator for the money? Will double as the home backup generator during storm season. If this is the preferred generator, any coupons or ways to get a discount? |
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Originally Posted By BayEagle: Costco $200 off. Sale just started. Been wanting a dual fuel forever... https://www.costco.com/firman-3200w-running--4000w-peak-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.product.100843922.html?qid=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b&cjevent=1dab4922be7f11ed826609bf0a1cb82b https://images.costco-static.com/ImageDelivery/imageService?profileId=12026540&itemId=2322024-847&recipeName=680 View Quote |
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Originally Posted By motoguy: I've never heard of this Firman brand. Is this a Cosco house brand? More to the point, would this one be preferable to the HF Predator unit? I've got a 25% coupon for the HF unit, making it $675ish. View Quote Firman has been around quite a while. This unit would be preferable since it is a dual-fuel unit compared to the Predator. |
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Daddy loves you. Now go away.
Ruthless ruler of cubicle B300.2C.983 |
Originally Posted By Zhukov: Firman has been around quite a while. This unit would be preferable since it is a dual-fuel unit compared to the Predator. View Quote Thank you. I overlooked that. Now to decide between this or a pair of smaller dual-fuel units (that have sales or good prices right now). |
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If I ever got an RV my thought was to set it up to run solely on battery power (LiFePo4) for 24 hours, running highly efficient mini-split ACs (vs the 1960s tech roof units)
The generator would be a 2000-2500 dual-fuel unit, running primarily on propane, that runs a battery charger to charge/float the primary power system, ie the battery bank. Supplemental would be roof solar, as much as can fit up there so that there is charge going into the battery, always, during daylight. Shorepower would operate the same way, straight into the battery charger. This way the power fluctuations would always be in the battery system instead of the genny (or shorepower) |
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www.danpassaro.com
"we don't carry for the odds, we carry for the stakes" 03RN |
Another Firman deal . Ebay
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I survived the cockpocalypse of 11/21/2012.
Bacon grease, the Muslim approved .mil lubricant. |
Originally Posted By motoguy: Brought our (new to us) travel trailer home tonight. Looking to pick up a generator for it. Seller recommended the 3500w Harbor Freight Predator inverter generator. I see these are currently $899. HF linky here Rather than read 100 pages...recommendations for a better generator for the money? Will double as the home backup generator during storm season. If this is the preferred generator, any coupons or ways to get a discount? View Quote I picked up the Wen 3800 trailer ready generator that was posted way back in this thread. It was $599 with free shipping direct from Wen. Probably won’t be that cheap again, but they do go on sale often Mine is now $799, but this one is similar and only $648. https://wenproducts.com/collections/generators/products/wen-56450i-super-quiet-4500-watt-rv-ready-portable-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off |
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Originally Posted By ropie: I picked up the Wen 3800 trailer ready generator that was posted way back in this thread. It was $599 with free shipping direct from Wen. Probably won't be that cheap again, but they do go on sale often Mine is now $799, but this one is similar and only $648. https://wenproducts.com/collections/generators/products/wen-56450i-super-quiet-4500-watt-rv-ready-portable-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off View Quote |
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Originally Posted By motoguy: Thanks! I keep going back and forth about a pair of smaller units I can link together, or one bigger unit. I need to make my decision on that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By motoguy: Originally Posted By ropie: I picked up the Wen 3800 trailer ready generator that was posted way back in this thread. It was $599 with free shipping direct from Wen. Probably won't be that cheap again, but they do go on sale often Mine is now $799, but this one is similar and only $648. https://wenproducts.com/collections/generators/products/wen-56450i-super-quiet-4500-watt-rv-ready-portable-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off I also have a 2000w inverter if we don’t need the larger one. And they can be ran in parallel if needed |
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Check out the Champion Open Frame Inverters as well. I wound up with one and it has been fine for residential and emergency use. I will note, I picked up a deal on a Pulsar 2300 watt when Walmart had them under 300. The smaller suitcase size is super convenient. Honestly if you’re looking to be in that 4000W power zone for your generators, 2 suitcase size generators with Parallel capability are convenient.
If you can shop around all these generators seem to go on and off sale quite a bit. Wen had some great sales at the end of the year. I’m of the opinion that if you run them regularly, keep new ethanol free gas in them, and change the oil/service them properly, most of these generators will be fine for basic use. Also, get one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-operated-liquid-transfer-pump-63847.html If the fuel in either of my generators starts getting older, I pump it into my car and just refill the generator with new fuel. Makes transfer extremely easy. |
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I went back 10 pages, which took me into last year. Looks like this sale direct from WEN is on par with some of the "good deal" sales on inverter, dual fuel ~2500w units earlier in the thread (aside from some $300 sales on the 2k - 2200w units). Any reason not to just jump on this?
https://wenproducts.com/collections/dual-fuel-generators/products/wen-df250i-super-quiet-2500-w-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off |
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For the guys running a camper air conditioner with a generator, I installed one of these soft start units to reduce the amperage surge requirement when the unit kicks on.
They claim it "eliminates low-power RV A/C start-up problems for any RV AC unit on any rig." https://www.softstartrv.com/ |
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Originally Posted By Maroonfeather: For the guys running a camper air conditioner with a generator, I installed one of these soft start units to reduce the amperage surge requirement when the unit kicks on. They claim it "eliminates low-power RV A/C start-up problems for any RV AC unit on any rig." https://www.softstartrv.com/ View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Maroonfeather: For the guys running a camper air conditioner with a generator, I installed one of these soft start units to reduce the amperage surge requirement when the unit kicks on. They claim it "eliminates low-power RV A/C start-up problems for any RV AC unit on any rig." https://www.softstartrv.com/ View Quote Trick is not to be where A/C is not needed. Not like you can just hook it to a pick up truck and go to where it is cooler. I am doing pretty well for not even using the A/C in the last 4-5 months of full time mobile. |
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Aimless --- The Suburban potbellied Snow Chicken
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Originally Posted By PepePewPew: Buffalo Sportsman 1000i first test run: View Quote Finally got set up to run the house on that weak little thing. Put a shunt across an unused double pole breaker, and used a cable of death to plug it into a garage outlet. Result: running the sump pump, and only the sump pump, kills it dead on overload protection. I don't know what the locked rotor amps on the pump are, but they're beyond this generator. Will run my fridge or my freezer, struggles a bit during startup but it runs them fine. But it can't start the fridge while the freezer is running, and it can't start the freezer while the fridge is running. 82 running watts on the freezer is apparently less than the excess capacity available when starting the fridge. So, I've got a tiny quiet cheap generator that's very easy on gas, and can run lights/TV/laptop while the fridge or freezer is running, but I can't run a sump pump and probably can't start the fridge while the laptop is charging. I'd have to shed loads, start the fridge, then put the other loads back on, and turn off the breaker to the fridge once it shuts down so that it doesn't start itself back up when I'm using other stuff. It was a warm day, so I didn't think to test the furnace. I'm already convinced that I can't use it to run the fridge and furnace overnight, because it'll shut itself off if the fridge comes on while the furnace is running. Conclusion: the Sportsman 1000i is more hassle than it's worth, because it's too weak to run furnace/fridge/freezer unattended while I sleep. Wish I'd bought a Pulsar 2300 when Home Depot had them (a couple years ago) for $100 more than I paid for the Sportsman. |
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Steve @ ADCO has been sued for selling a .22 revolver in a gun store.
https://www.givesendgo.com/G3HYS Details: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/ADCO-being-sued-for-wrongful-death-Update-12-19-/5-2569266/ |
Need to rename thread to
Harbor Freight "Inverter Generators" NOW OFFICIAL |
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Norcal call sign "Wicked"
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Originally Posted By PepePewPew: Finally got set up to run the house on that weak little thing. Put a shunt across an unused double pole breaker, and used a cable of death to plug it into a garage outlet. Result: running the sump pump, and only the sump pump, kills it dead on overload protection. I don't know what the locked rotor amps on the pump are, but they're beyond this generator. Will run my fridge or my freezer, struggles a bit during startup but it runs them fine. But it can't start the fridge while the freezer is running, and it can't start the freezer while the fridge is running. 82 running watts on the freezer is apparently less than the excess capacity available when starting the fridge. So, I've got a tiny quiet cheap generator that's very easy on gas, and can run lights/TV/laptop while the fridge or freezer is running, but I can't run a sump pump and probably can't start the fridge while the laptop is charging. I'd have to shed loads, start the fridge, then put the other loads back on, and turn off the breaker to the fridge once it shuts down so that it doesn't start itself back up when I'm using other stuff. It was a warm day, so I didn't think to test the furnace. I'm already convinced that I can't use it to run the fridge and furnace overnight, because it'll shut itself off if the fridge comes on while the furnace is running. Conclusion: the Sportsman 1000i is more hassle than it's worth, because it's too weak to run furnace/fridge/freezer unattended while I sleep. Wish I'd bought a Pulsar 2300 when Home Depot had them (a couple years ago) for $100 more than I paid for the Sportsman. View Quote A battery bank may handle the load, including surge, while the genny keeps the battery bank charged up. but that means having a battery bank of course. that's why I went with a 2500 |
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www.danpassaro.com
"we don't carry for the odds, we carry for the stakes" 03RN |
Originally Posted By danpass: A battery bank may handle the load, including surge, while the genny keeps the battery bank charged up. but that means having a battery bank of course. that's why I went with a 2500 View Quote Good point, I could run everything 120v off this tiny generator and a big UPS, as the generator puts out safely more than my average load. |
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Steve @ ADCO has been sued for selling a .22 revolver in a gun store.
https://www.givesendgo.com/G3HYS Details: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/ADCO-being-sued-for-wrongful-death-Update-12-19-/5-2569266/ |
Seems like a competitive price. $449++
https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1473080-champion-power-equipment-2500-watt-ultralight-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.html |
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Originally Posted By MaxxII: Electrical gurus... I have this generator and I'm trying to figure out what amperage transfer switch I should buy. So do I need a 30 amp switch, or should I bump up to a 50 amp switch? I would think I need a 50 amp switch, but I'm not an electrician. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MaxxII: Electrical gurus... I have this generator and I'm trying to figure out what amperage transfer switch I should buy. Gasoline Starting Amps at 120V...37.5A Gasoline Running Amps at 120V...30.4A Propane Starting Amps at 120V...37.5A Propane Running Amps at 120V...27.4A So do I need a 30 amp switch, or should I bump up to a 50 amp switch? I would think I need a 50 amp switch, but I'm not an electrician. You have the capability for 37 1/2 amps, and potentially more if you would add a paralleled generator, I would not go lower than a 50 amp circuit. Especially if you're going to be using a bridged setup powered with 120v generators. I'd be tempted to go up a wire gauge on the neutral if you're planning for bridged. |
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This is...a clue - Pat_Rogers
I'm not adequately aluminumized for this thread. - gonzo_beyondo CO, FL, MI, SC, OR - Please lobby your legislators to end discrimination against non-resident CCW permit holders |
Originally Posted By HoodyHoo21: @3gT4R Exactly this! We're outside La Grange, KY and have been without power since Friday afternoon. I bought the same Pulsar 2300W generator and it has been running since Friday afternoon. Saving our ass for sure! I've been running refrigerator, TV, Internet router, chicken heater (400 W), various lamps, phone chargers, wood burning stove fan, etc. No problems. I've shut it down twice now to check the oil, and I haven't lost any- and the oil still looks brand new. I was going to pull the spark plug just to give it a wire brush, but I can't get it out- the socket wont fit as there is plastic shielding in the way. Have you had your spark plug out? How'd you get it out? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By HoodyHoo21: Originally Posted By 3gT4R: Just want to give a shout out to whoever posted the Pulsar inverter 2300w $399 deal on Black Friday. Done a couple break in cycles and oil changes when I got it, and put it away. Thanks to the 80mph wind gusts Friday, we’ve been without power since 830 Friday. Being able to have refrigerator, tv, light, and a coffee pot has been great, the wife and little one thinks I’m a hero 🤣 @3gT4R Exactly this! We're outside La Grange, KY and have been without power since Friday afternoon. I bought the same Pulsar 2300W generator and it has been running since Friday afternoon. Saving our ass for sure! I've been running refrigerator, TV, Internet router, chicken heater (400 W), various lamps, phone chargers, wood burning stove fan, etc. No problems. I've shut it down twice now to check the oil, and I haven't lost any- and the oil still looks brand new. I was going to pull the spark plug just to give it a wire brush, but I can't get it out- the socket wont fit as there is plastic shielding in the way. Have you had your spark plug out? How'd you get it out? And a lot of people think they need an 8000 or 10000 watt generator. |
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This is...a clue - Pat_Rogers
I'm not adequately aluminumized for this thread. - gonzo_beyondo CO, FL, MI, SC, OR - Please lobby your legislators to end discrimination against non-resident CCW permit holders |
Originally Posted By atavistic: Seems like a competitive price. $449++ https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1473080-champion-power-equipment-2500-watt-ultralight-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.html View Quote aside from the $50 price difference, input on why I would choose the Champion over this WEN? https://wenproducts.com/collections/dual-fuel-generators/products/wen-df250i-super-quiet-2500-w-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off the Champion's output on gas is the same as the WEN's output on propane. All things being equal, I'd choose the WEN for this additional output. |
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Originally Posted By atavistic: Seems like a competitive price. $449++ https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1473080-champion-power-equipment-2500-watt-ultralight-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator.html View Quote This is it y’all, amazing price for dual fuel Champion. Wish I would have been able to pick this one up when I was looking for a small genset. |
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Originally Posted By motoguy: aside from the $50 price difference, input on why I would choose the Champion over this WEN? https://wenproducts.com/collections/dual-fuel-generators/products/wen-df250i-super-quiet-2500-w-portable-dual-fuel-inverter-generator-with-fuel-shut-off the Champion's output on gas is the same as the WEN's output on propane. All things being equal, I'd choose the WEN for this additional output. View Quote I’d suggest Wen as an option, but Champion has been around for awhile, and has a reputation as reliable with great customer service. |
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