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Originally Posted By Meche_03:
I love the design and would like to print one on my 3d pinter. I'm predicting the failure will be a delamination and the tube will become two tubes. First chamber and threads still on the barrel, the remaining can goes down range. I personally have never seen a MakerBot print well in abs. The ones at work use pla, the abs just warped too much for us. I know another company only runs abs on makerbots. We have run nylon, carbon fiber reinforced nylon anda few other materials from taulman3d. My personal ultimaker 2 printer does not like abs either. By the time I got consistent feeding through the Bowden tube and good Layer builds the plastic was charing or discoloring. I haven't tried any other abs brakes what came with it. I'm thinking one problem may be the larger filement diameter the ultimaker uses compared to makerbots. The abs from the commercial stratysis machines at college are brittle compared to what I've seen come off of a MakerBot or ultimaker. View Quote |
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You may find me one day dead in a ditch somewhere. But by God, you\'ll find me in a pile of brass- Tpr. M. Padgett
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Originally Posted By krpind:
I decided that this thread was valuable enough to never go to the archives. OP, if you would prefer it to go to the archive after interest falls off, let me know and I will remove the no archive status. View Quote Damn, I can't think of a higher honor at this site. |
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My 7 year old daughter has been an NRA Benefactor member since birth.
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
For sure Different set of needs for hobbyist vs pro. Time vs money thing I'd say. When people ask, I tell them autolevel is to speed things up for those who already know wtf they are doing. It most definitely is not to make things easier for the guys that don't know wtf they are doing. Nobody listens though, and they usually end up beating their head against the wall for ~2wks trying to figure out how to setup the autolevel, instead of the ~5min it will take you to level it the 1st time manually As a homegamer, I enjoyed all the deficiancies of the $250 el cheapo that I got. Every one of them was a chance to learn more about this witchcraft. The thing printed ok out of the box, but after tuning things up, it does pretty damn good. Hell, drawing the parts to stiffen things up was how learned to draw I just looked at the ones I uploaded for others to use, over 7,000 downloads View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
It's a minor learning curve to understand the concept of what elements of the slicer affect different aspects of the print. Also the printer companies help with this as well. Their engineers are learning too and share the info. I went through a couple manual leveling printers. After the machine is broken in with 100 or so hours of print time, it becomes a pain in the ass to get the bed juuuust right each time. And it doesn't always work. Plus the process of eyeballing it manually isn't precise. The auto leveling feature works and works really well. I put 100s of print hours through my first Axiom and the auto leveler worked and continues to work flawlessly. What broke first was the heat bed supports ETA: yes I'll grant you that 4K is a lot for a hobby toy when you can build one for $300 or whatever. But 4K is an awesome price for a professional machine, with warranty and engineer support, and a proven record for specific resolutions and speeds , etc For sure Different set of needs for hobbyist vs pro. Time vs money thing I'd say. When people ask, I tell them autolevel is to speed things up for those who already know wtf they are doing. It most definitely is not to make things easier for the guys that don't know wtf they are doing. Nobody listens though, and they usually end up beating their head against the wall for ~2wks trying to figure out how to setup the autolevel, instead of the ~5min it will take you to level it the 1st time manually As a homegamer, I enjoyed all the deficiancies of the $250 el cheapo that I got. Every one of them was a chance to learn more about this witchcraft. The thing printed ok out of the box, but after tuning things up, it does pretty damn good. Hell, drawing the parts to stiffen things up was how learned to draw I just looked at the ones I uploaded for others to use, over 7,000 downloads Where'd you upload? Thingiverse? |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
Originally Posted By superdrag67:
That's very cool OP! Not to hijack but those of you with 3d printer knowledge, do most of them have the ability to accept solidworks files to print from? I've thinking about getting one but can't seem to find a list or anything of the printers that do without trying to individually research each one. View Quote Solidworks can convert to STL which is read by the slicer and converted to gcode. There might be OBJ compatibility too, not sure though |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
http://sadefensejournal.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/barrel5.jpg It would blow apart within a few rounds probably, if not the first. If you made a sinter 3d version, that would be fun. Machine time will still cost you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
Originally Posted By night9:
Originally Posted By SouthpawAR:
OP I'm amazed. I'm just wondering what would happen on a 5.56 Well.. you'd just want a 3D metal sinter printer http://sadefensejournal.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/barrel5.jpg It would blow apart within a few rounds probably, if not the first. If you made a sinter 3d version, that would be fun. Machine time will still cost you. Either polycarbonate or bridge nylon could possibly withstand that pressure though I'm just guessing. As others have mentioned though, once it's deregulated then prices have to fall dramatically. If prices don't drop substantially, then the existing companies will get their asses handed to them by the first start up that creates a half assed safe and effective suppressor at a reduced price. Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home. I don't quite understand why you seem to be crusading against this ,as it seems to be without reason. Totally get your point about the differences in .22 and centerfire, but it doesn't mean all else is impossible |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
housing the printed core in a serialized threaded tube would be a prudent next step
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"None of you understand. I'm not locked up in here with YOU. You're locked up in here with ME.”,
Walter Joseph Kovacs, (w,sste), "The Watchmen" |
Hmmm, I have a Flashforge Pro...
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We should have shotguns for this
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Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Where'd you upload? Thingiverse? View Quote Yup. For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print. http://www.thingiverse.com/ There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun. Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter. There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors. One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined |
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Geebus, whered yall go? 1st time i seen peeps here get skert of dildos and fleshlights
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Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
I know suppressor businesses that have the hardest time finding engineers that can do the math and solve the problems presented during interviews. Again, another hyperbole insertion in a disposable rimfire sample with a few rounds down the tube with noticeable decibel change, versus discussions about center fire cans that take exit pressures 3-4 times that of 22 LR repeatedly, for thousands of rounds, and don't fail. The difference in footprint is huge in both intellect and industrial capacity. View Quote |
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"....now I'm learning to be a part of societ............societ...........sss."
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Originally Posted By superdrag67:
That's very cool OP! Not to hijack but those of you with 3d printer knowledge, do most of them have the ability to accept solidworks files to print from? I've thinking about getting one but can't seem to find a list or anything of the printers that do without trying to individually research each one. View Quote |
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"....now I'm learning to be a part of societ............societ...........sss."
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Originally Posted By JBowles:
The trick with ABS is you have to have and totally enclosed build chamber, I heat the build plate to 110° C and with a full enclosure the ambient temperature gets up to about 40-50° C. If I could figure out a way to keep the steppers cool, I'd force heat the chamber even hotter. Without doing those this ABS is a waste of time. I recommend maker geeks hi-temp Raptor PLA for genreal use, it doesnt warp, and it sands and bends a bit unlike normal pla View Quote |
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Originally Posted By pdxshooter:
I was able to get Bridge Nylon print on my Monoprice Mini by blocking off the parts cooling fan and keeping the bed hot. View Quote ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing. The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework. It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out. |
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Wicked cool!
Now just pass the HPA and we could be swimming in sub $10 suppressors! |
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Originally Posted By Spartikis:
Wicked cool! Now just pass the HPA and we could be swimming in sub $10 suppressors! View Quote That one might be a little optimistic for 3d printing, but it would happen when somebody with access to an injection molder spent the afternoon making a set of dies. PA66 GF33 would prob do better than any filament you could buy for a printer. Fuck muh r&d and roi, it would only take a sat afternoon to draw up and cut dies that would spit out thousands of disposable muzzle devices for piss money. |
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing. The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework. It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By pdxshooter:
I was able to get Bridge Nylon print on my Monoprice Mini by blocking off the parts cooling fan and keeping the bed hot. ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing. The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework. It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out. I've taken to encloseing the ultimaker when printing PLA. My problem stems from the vendor's stating their systems print ABS as the machine is shipped from the factory. We enclosed our MakerBot to get better prints. I've hacked a cube x so I could use our own slicer and filament instead of the proprietary crap. edited for spelling, f-ing autocorrect |
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"This is a Glock & Wesson 45mm FPO designed in 1789 by Colt Koch"
I should be in the desert blowing up the sunshine. NRA Life Member Mechanical, Manufacturing, Mining and Explosives Engineer |
Originally Posted By Meche_03:
I've taken to including the ultimaker when printing PLA. My problem stems from the vendor's stating their systems print ABS as the machine is shipped from the factory. We enclosed on MakerBot to get better prints. I've backed a cube x so I could use our on slicer and filament instead of the proprietary crap. View Quote Yeah I don't of any consumer grade printers that are actually ready to make quality turn key ABS prints. I've turned to Makergeeks' hi-temp pla for most stuff now, it doesn't warp, it's tough and flexible, good layer adhesion, and sands nicely. Makergeeks' Raptor Series PLA |
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You may find me one day dead in a ditch somewhere. But by God, you\'ll find me in a pile of brass- Tpr. M. Padgett
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Man that's awesome
Good work |
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"Somewhere in the midst of my coke-fueled orgy I decide life wasn't so bad after all."
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My Stratasys waits patiently...
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Yup. For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print. http://www.thingiverse.com/ There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun. Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter. There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors. One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Where'd you upload? Thingiverse? Yup. For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print. http://www.thingiverse.com/ There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun. Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter. There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors. One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined 3D printed fleshlights. Now we're talking |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home. View Quote Hypothesis: You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance. Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere. The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors). Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available. They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured. There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive. To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel. These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy. However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there. But... What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside? You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage. But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes. After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes. Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets. The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure. When fired, some of the polymer will melt away. This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities. With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away. The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc. A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost. You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight). |
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Uh, probably about as much liability as all the people who actually sell real, physical ITAR-controlled items like night vision goggles and firearms. Which is to say, zero. My body, uh, inbox is ready. I mean, I could redo from scratch what he's done in my Rhinocad program going from those pictures he posted. But there's only so many hours in a day. View Quote Well. Good point. |
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https://www.nraila.org/donate/
Instagram @fimbulvetrknifeworks, making knives and stuff Voting NRA members: Stephen Stamboulieh - Nolo Adam Kraut - Supermoose Sean Maloney - SeanOHNRA NO on bylaws |
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes.
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...let me clue you in. I am not in danger, Skyler. I AM the danger. A guy opens his door and gets shot and you think that of me? No. I am the one who knocks!
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Originally Posted By swede1986:
Couldn't he just destroy this one and then make a new one with the same serial number? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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I've found myself in 3 posters' signatures. I'm much, much more proud of that than I probably should be. - DeltaElite777
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https://www.nraila.org/donate/
Instagram @fimbulvetrknifeworks, making knives and stuff Voting NRA members: Stephen Stamboulieh - Nolo Adam Kraut - Supermoose Sean Maloney - SeanOHNRA NO on bylaws |
https://www.nraila.org/donate/
Instagram @fimbulvetrknifeworks, making knives and stuff Voting NRA members: Stephen Stamboulieh - Nolo Adam Kraut - Supermoose Sean Maloney - SeanOHNRA NO on bylaws |
Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes. Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans. |
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...let me clue you in. I am not in danger, Skyler. I AM the danger. A guy opens his door and gets shot and you think that of me? No. I am the one who knocks!
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Originally Posted By 10mm_:
You don't need your can to last forever if you don't have the burden of the NFA. When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans. View Quote They're probably more common now. But there will always be a market for that kind of product. See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof |
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https://www.nraila.org/donate/
Instagram @fimbulvetrknifeworks, making knives and stuff Voting NRA members: Stephen Stamboulieh - Nolo Adam Kraut - Supermoose Sean Maloney - SeanOHNRA NO on bylaws |
Originally Posted By Kuraki:
They're probably more common now. But there will always be a market for that kind of product. See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
You don't need your can to last forever if you don't have the burden of the NFA. When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans. They're probably more common now. But there will always be a market for that kind of product. See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof |
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...let me clue you in. I am not in danger, Skyler. I AM the danger. A guy opens his door and gets shot and you think that of me? No. I am the one who knocks!
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Slightly OT - has anyone done an additive manufacturing lathe yet? In my mind current 3D printers are basically the additive version of a mill. One could do the same thing with a lathe, starting with some type of core onto which material is deposited. The big difference would be that the part could be radially assymetrical, as the nozzle could be timed with the rotation.
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Ive though about something akin to a fdm lathe, more of a polar coordinate machine, a center rotational axis with radial and height linear axis.
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You may find me one day dead in a ditch somewhere. But by God, you\'ll find me in a pile of brass- Tpr. M. Padgett
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Originally Posted By R2point0:
Slightly OT - has anyone done an additive manufacturing lathe yet? In my mind current 3D printers are basically the additive version of a mill. One could do the same thing with a lathe, starting with some type of core onto which material is deposited. The big difference would be that the part could be radially assymetrical, as the nozzle could be timed with the rotation. View Quote The main 3D printers/additive manufacturing that has a high degree of accuracy and at least semi-finished surfaces is laser metal powder sintering, where a bed of fine metal powder is melted together by the laser, then the next layer is put down carefully, and the laser does it again. There is also Laser Metal (direct) Deposition, where the metal powder stream is actually shot out with the laser, kind of like a plasma-cutter, but with the metal in the plasma and left behind. That's pretty accurate and provides a decent finish, but those are even more out of reach (for now?) than the powder-bed Laser Metal Sintering printers. And most Laser Metal Deposition systems requires either a big vacuum booth, or an inert atmosphere booth that purges most all the oxygen from it. And of course, while they can do a LOT with the various alloys and materials they use, and the fact it comes out as powder/grains helps mitigate things, there's still ultimately the issue of if the hardness and temper of the metal exposed to high heat to deposit it meets the needs of the parts you want, and if any further heat treating or annealing will fix that for you if it's not what you needed. There also have been 3D metal printers that essentially are like a wire feed MIG/TIG welder that just lays down layers of bead building up parts, but the result is rough and blobby, and not practical unless you're prepared to do some additional machining. Most of these I've seen to date are more techno-art projects or "because I could" kind of things. Milwaukee Maker Faire last fall I saw a company with a 3D metal printer of sorts that was somewhat like you describe, but it would be more of a mill than a lathe. This company's trick was to lay down metal layers with a more basic wire-fed TIG welder, but then a 3-axis milling head would follow behind right afterward making each layer smooth and perfect. There's obviously many kinds internal sloping voids and shapes this printer can't make a clean edge on, but the huge benefit was that this printer is only a few thousand dollars, and that's a start. And it also works in regular plastic filaments too if so desired. |
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Like most Americans, I learned all I needed to know about the Vietnam War by watching M*A*S*H*...
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Before computers, lathes were an easy way to make nice round things.
With cnc, lathes are no longer really needed, but are still better suited to some operations. A lathe printer would be a neat project, but not sure what it would do that a normal one wouldn't. |
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Lots of files on thingi, which one is the OP's?
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Seriously, a tractor dealer from Possum Trot, KY has to explain this to you, a lawyer? - JPL
WTB: Glock 17 gen 2. SN CAF 895 |
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
The main 3D printers/additive manufacturing that has a high degree of accuracy and at least semi-finished surfaces is laser metal powder sintering, where a bed of fine metal powder is melted together by the laser, then the next layer is put down carefully, and the laser does it again. There is also Laser Metal (direct) Deposition, where the metal powder stream is actually shot out with the laser, kind of like a plasma-cutter, but with the metal in the plasma and left behind. That's pretty accurate and provides a decent finish, but those are even more out of reach (for now?) than the powder-bed Laser Metal Sintering printers. And most Laser Metal Deposition systems requires either a big vacuum booth, or an inert atmosphere booth that purges most all the oxygen from it. And of course, while they can do a LOT with the various alloys and materials they use, and the fact it comes out as powder/grains helps mitigate things, there's still ultimately the issue of if the hardness and temper of the metal exposed to high heat to deposit it meets the needs of the parts you want, and if any further heat treating or annealing will fix that for you if it's not what you needed. There also have been 3D metal printers that essentially are like a wire feed MIG/TIG welder that just lays down layers of bead building up parts, but the result is rough and blobby, and not practical unless you're prepared to do some additional machining. Most of these I've seen to date are more techno-art projects or "because I could" kind of things. Milwaukee Maker Faire last fall I saw a company with a 3D metal printer of sorts that was somewhat like you describe, but it would be more of a mill than a lathe. This company's trick was to lay down metal layers with a more basic wire-fed TIG welder, but then a 3-axis milling head would follow behind right afterward making each layer smooth and perfect. There's obviously many kinds internal sloping voids and shapes this printer can't make a clean edge on, but the huge benefit was that this printer is only a few thousand dollars, and that's a start. And it also works in regular plastic filaments too if so desired. View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Before computers, lathes were an easy way to make nice round things. With cnc, lathes are no longer really needed, but are still better suited to some operations. A lathe printer would be a neat project, but not sure what it would do that a normal one wouldn't. View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By TrojanMan:
Hypothesis: You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance. Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere. The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors). Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available. They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured. There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive. To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel. These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy. However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there. But... What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside? You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage. But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes. After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes. Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets. The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure. When fired, some of the polymer will melt away. This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities. With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away. The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc. A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost. You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrojanMan:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home. Hypothesis: You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance. Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere. The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors). Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available. They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured. There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive. To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel. These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy. However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there. But... What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside? You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage. But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes. After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes. Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets. The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure. When fired, some of the polymer will melt away. This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities. With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away. The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc. A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost. You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight). Those complex internal geometries would be easily accomplished by an SLA printer, but I'm not certain the materials available for SLA printing are as strong as some others available. |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
Originally Posted By R2point0:
Slightly OT - has anyone done an additive manufacturing lathe yet? In my mind current 3D printers are basically the additive version of a mill. One could do the same thing with a lathe, starting with some type of core onto which material is deposited. The big difference would be that the part could be radially assymetrical, as the nozzle could be timed with the rotation. View Quote I've seen rotation on the metal "printers." Offtopic but apparently here's a 3D printed metal 1911: Failed To Load Title Here's an LMD printer that uses rotation. Kinda neat: Laser metal deposition manufacturing (LMD) There was a german machine I saw on the youtubes last year that was (I believe) a mix of CNC/LMD. It would lay the metal dust down and heat it with a laser to "print" an object, then do a tool swap and begin milling the part to shape, then add more material, then mill, and on and on until it had a finished carburetor. But now I can't find it. My youtube-fu is bad ETA: link fix |
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John_Wayne777:
If this shit keeps up it might contain so many massive egos in one place that the sheer density of self importance might collapse in on itself and end all of humanity. |
Well, if we get the HPA passed, count me in on 3d shenanigans. I've got just over a foot of build volume on my machine
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Originally Posted By doc_Zox:
housing the printed core in a serialized threaded tube would be a prudent next step View Quote Someone said it, this was my idea. Make a serialized tube that the enclosed baffle assembly slides or screws in to. Bonus points if the threaded barrel part stays on the tube so the replacement baffle assemblies are swappable in seconds. |
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Mechanically, they can already run way faster than what you can actually print at. You can only melt plastic so fast and have it stick. Also need time between passes to let the previous layer firm up, or weird shit happens. If you added a 4th axis, might be able to print some things that you could not otherwise. Doubt there is firmware or slicers that support this though. You always need something for it to print on. Vertical walls are easy, but something flat and/or unsupported is a bit trickier. The zig zaggy stuff in timkels mag well is a temporary support so the other side of the mag well has something to rest on as it prints. It just pops out when it is finished. https://s5.postimg.org/w90725tzb/ar15_Mini_Rec.jpg View Quote A 3D printer with a bed that could rotate and angle itself adding one or even two extra axes would be amazing. I'm sure someone's working on it. That would be great for making overhangs and ledges without supports, because you could just temporarily rotate the work so the overhang was pointing up, and would support itself. Although I suppose two nozzle extruders with the second material being the water dissolvable PVA filament already solves a lot of those problems, unless it's a completely closed void you can't wash it out of. |
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Like most Americans, I learned all I needed to know about the Vietnam War by watching M*A*S*H*...
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Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
A 3D printer with a bed that could rotate and angle itself adding one or even two extra axes would be amazing. I'm sure someone's working on it. That would be great for making overhangs and ledges without supports, because you could just temporarily rotate the work so the overhang was pointing up, and would support itself. Although I suppose two nozzle extruders with the second material being the water dissolvable PVA filament already solves a lot of those problems, unless it's a completely closed void you can't wash it out of. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Mechanically, they can already run way faster than what you can actually print at. You can only melt plastic so fast and have it stick. Also need time between passes to let the previous layer firm up, or weird shit happens. If you added a 4th axis, might be able to print some things that you could not otherwise. Doubt there is firmware or slicers that support this though. You always need something for it to print on. Vertical walls are easy, but something flat and/or unsupported is a bit trickier. The zig zaggy stuff in timkels mag well is a temporary support so the other side of the mag well has something to rest on as it prints. It just pops out when it is finished. https://s5.postimg.org/w90725tzb/ar15_Mini_Rec.jpg A 3D printer with a bed that could rotate and angle itself adding one or even two extra axes would be amazing. I'm sure someone's working on it. That would be great for making overhangs and ledges without supports, because you could just temporarily rotate the work so the overhang was pointing up, and would support itself. Although I suppose two nozzle extruders with the second material being the water dissolvable PVA filament already solves a lot of those problems, unless it's a completely closed void you can't wash it out of. I've seen a 5 axis Mori seki used with a LENs additive setup as a tool in the tool magazine. So powder metal is injected by air into a weld pool created by a laser. It builds up metal for a while, then parks the laser head in the corner of the machine enclosure. Pulls a cutting tool from the tool magazine and machines like normal. Puts the tools away and reattached laser head and powder injection device. The target use was to rebuild worn areas in expensive parts and remachine them to spec instead of totally replacing the parts. They show complete builds in the videos Additive Manufacturing - LASERTEC 65 DED |
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"This is a Glock & Wesson 45mm FPO designed in 1789 by Colt Koch"
I should be in the desert blowing up the sunshine. NRA Life Member Mechanical, Manufacturing, Mining and Explosives Engineer |
RIP - Cpt. M. Medders
Anyone can do a man's work; acting like a man is the hard part. Thank you FlatDarkEarf |
RIP - Cpt. M. Medders
Anyone can do a man's work; acting like a man is the hard part. Thank you FlatDarkEarf |
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Uh, probably about as much liability as all the people who actually sell real, physical ITAR-controlled items like night vision goggles and firearms. Which is to say, zero. My body, uh, inbox is ready. I mean, I could redo from scratch what he's done in my Rhinocad program going from those pictures he posted. But there's only so many hours in a day. View Quote They pay ITAR taxes to sell stuff like that |
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RIP - Cpt. M. Medders
Anyone can do a man's work; acting like a man is the hard part. Thank you FlatDarkEarf |
Originally Posted By Meche_03:
I've seen a 5 axis Mori seki used with a LENs additive setup as a tool in the tool magazine. So powder metal is injected by air into a weld pool created by a laser. It builds up metal for a while, then parks the laser head in the corner of the machine enclosure. Pulls a cutting tool from the tool magazine and machines like normal. Puts the tools away and reattached laser head and powder injection device. The target use was to rebuild worn areas in expensive parts and remachine them to spec instead of totally replacing the parts. They show complete builds in the videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3CkzQQFZXs View Quote A different video of a laser/metal deposition machine tilting the bed to make unsupported overhangs as it rotated the piece is exactly what made me wonder why someone hasn't applied the idea to a "regular" polymer/filament 3D printer to make better unsupported overhangs. Skip to 00:30 to see where it tilts the table so the angled part is vertical at the actual deposition point. Laser metal deposition manufacturing (LMD) |
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Like most Americans, I learned all I needed to know about the Vietnam War by watching M*A*S*H*...
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