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Link Posted: 2/5/2017 5:41:19 AM EST
[#1]
Do you need a manufacturer's license?
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 5:54:43 AM EST
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 1Bigdog:
Do you need a manufacturer's license?
View Quote


Not for a Form 1 can. Pay the $200 tax and the approved Form 1 is your manufacturer's license, so to speak, but it's only good for that one can with its own unique serial number.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 8:20:17 AM EST
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Meche_03:
I love the design and would like to print one on my 3d pinter. I'm predicting the failure will be a delamination and the tube will become two tubes.  First chamber and threads still on the barrel, the remaining can goes down range.  I personally have never seen a MakerBot print well in abs.  The ones at work use pla, the abs just warped too much for us. I know another company only runs abs on makerbots.  We have run nylon, carbon fiber reinforced nylon anda few other materials from taulman3d.  

My personal ultimaker 2 printer does not like abs either.  By the time I got consistent feeding through the Bowden tube and good Layer builds the plastic was charing or discoloring.  I haven't tried any other abs brakes what came with it.  I'm thinking one problem may be the larger filement diameter the ultimaker uses compared to makerbots.

The abs from the commercial stratysis machines at college are brittle compared to what I've seen come off of a MakerBot or ultimaker.
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The trick with ABS is you have to have and totally enclosed build chamber, I heat the build plate to 110° C and with a full enclosure the ambient temperature gets up to about 40-50° C. If I could figure out a way to keep the steppers cool, I'd force heat the chamber even hotter. Without doing those this ABS is a waste of time. I recommend maker geeks hi-temp Raptor PLA for genreal use, it doesnt warp, and it sands and bends a bit unlike normal pla
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 9:17:01 AM EST
[#4]
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Originally Posted By krpind:
I decided that this thread was valuable enough to never go to the archives.

OP, if you would prefer it to go to the archive after interest falls off, let me know and I will remove the no archive status.
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Damn, I can't think of a higher honor at this site.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 9:24:11 AM EST
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:


For sure
Different set of needs for hobbyist vs pro. Time vs money thing I'd say.

When people ask, I tell them autolevel is to speed things up for those who already know wtf they are doing.
It most definitely is not to make things easier for the guys that don't know wtf they are doing.
Nobody listens though, and they usually end up beating their head against the wall for ~2wks trying to figure out how to setup the autolevel, instead of the ~5min it will take you to level it the 1st time manually

As a homegamer, I enjoyed all the deficiancies of the $250 el cheapo that I got. Every one of them was a chance to learn more about this witchcraft.
The thing printed ok out of the box, but after tuning things up, it does pretty damn good.
Hell, drawing the parts to stiffen things up was how learned to draw
I just looked at the ones I uploaded for others to use, over 7,000 downloads
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:


It's a minor learning curve to understand the concept of what elements of the slicer affect different aspects of the print. Also the printer companies help with this as well. Their engineers are learning too and share the info.

I went through a couple manual leveling printers. After the machine is broken in with 100 or so hours of print time, it becomes a pain in the ass to get the bed juuuust right each time. And it doesn't always work. Plus the process of eyeballing it manually isn't precise.

The auto leveling feature works and works really well. I put 100s of print hours through my first Axiom and the auto leveler worked and continues to work flawlessly. What broke first was the heat bed supports

ETA: yes I'll grant you that 4K is a lot for a hobby toy when you can build one for $300 or whatever.  But 4K is an awesome price for a professional machine, with warranty and engineer support, and a proven record for specific resolutions and speeds , etc


For sure
Different set of needs for hobbyist vs pro. Time vs money thing I'd say.

When people ask, I tell them autolevel is to speed things up for those who already know wtf they are doing.
It most definitely is not to make things easier for the guys that don't know wtf they are doing.
Nobody listens though, and they usually end up beating their head against the wall for ~2wks trying to figure out how to setup the autolevel, instead of the ~5min it will take you to level it the 1st time manually

As a homegamer, I enjoyed all the deficiancies of the $250 el cheapo that I got. Every one of them was a chance to learn more about this witchcraft.
The thing printed ok out of the box, but after tuning things up, it does pretty damn good.
Hell, drawing the parts to stiffen things up was how learned to draw
I just looked at the ones I uploaded for others to use, over 7,000 downloads


Where'd you upload? Thingiverse?
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 9:26:23 AM EST
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By superdrag67:
That's very cool OP!  

Not to hijack but those of you with 3d printer knowledge, do most of them have the ability to accept solidworks files to print from?  I've thinking about getting one but can't seem to find a list or anything of the printers that do without trying to individually research each one.
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Solidworks can convert to STL which is read by the slicer and converted to gcode.

There might be OBJ compatibility too, not sure though
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 9:41:23 AM EST
[#7]
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Originally Posted By LRRPF52:


http://sadefensejournal.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/barrel5.jpg


It would blow apart within a few rounds probably, if not the first.

If you made a sinter 3d version, that would be fun.  Machine time will still cost you.
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Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
Originally Posted By night9:
Originally Posted By SouthpawAR:
OP I'm amazed.
I'm just wondering what would happen on a 5.56


Well.. you'd just want a 3D metal sinter printer


http://sadefensejournal.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/barrel5.jpg


It would blow apart within a few rounds probably, if not the first.

If you made a sinter 3d version, that would be fun.  Machine time will still cost you.


Either polycarbonate or bridge nylon could possibly withstand that pressure though I'm just guessing.

As others have mentioned though, once it's deregulated then prices have to fall dramatically. If prices don't drop substantially, then the existing companies will get their asses handed to them by the first start up that creates a half assed safe and effective suppressor at a reduced price.

Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home.

I don't quite understand why you seem to be crusading against this ,as it seems to be without reason.

Totally get your point about the differences in .22 and centerfire, but it doesn't mean all else is impossible
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 9:46:57 AM EST
[#8]
housing the printed core in a serialized threaded tube would be a prudent next step
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 2:16:24 PM EST
[#9]
Hmmm, I have a Flashforge Pro...
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 3:41:19 PM EST
[Last Edit: oetkbyetdia] [#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mp9fan:


Where'd you upload? Thingiverse?
View Quote


Yup.

For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print.
http://www.thingiverse.com/

There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun.

Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter.
There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed

Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors.
One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 10:40:17 PM EST
[#11]
Geebus, whered yall go?  1st time i seen peeps here  get skert of dildos and fleshlights
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 10:53:22 PM EST
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By LRRPF52:

I know suppressor businesses that have the hardest time finding engineers that can do the math and solve the problems presented during interviews.

Again, another hyperbole insertion in a disposable rimfire sample with a few rounds down the tube with noticeable decibel change, versus discussions about center fire cans that take exit pressures 3-4 times that of 22 LR repeatedly, for thousands of rounds, and don't fail.

The difference in footprint is huge in both intellect and industrial capacity.
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I saw a video showing how two guys from SpaceX modeled the new Raptor engine, and their kung-fu was good enough to solve combustion instability. They would consider designing a good suppressor trivial.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 10:58:05 PM EST
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By superdrag67:
That's very cool OP!  

Not to hijack but those of you with 3d printer knowledge, do most of them have the ability to accept solidworks files to print from?  I've thinking about getting one but can't seem to find a list or anything of the printers that do without trying to individually research each one.
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Yes. A guy at the hackerspace I go to uses SolidWorks and prints things he designed on it.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 11:27:14 PM EST
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JBowles:
The trick with ABS is you have to have and totally enclosed build chamber, I heat the build plate to 110° C and with a full enclosure the ambient temperature gets up to about 40-50° C. If I could figure out a way to keep the steppers cool, I'd force heat the chamber even hotter. Without doing those this ABS is a waste of time. I recommend maker geeks hi-temp Raptor PLA for genreal use, it doesnt warp, and it sands and bends a bit unlike normal pla
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I was able to get Bridge Nylon print on my Monoprice Mini by blocking off the parts cooling fan and keeping the bed hot.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 11:52:30 PM EST
[Last Edit: oetkbyetdia] [#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By pdxshooter:
I was able to get Bridge Nylon print on my Monoprice Mini by blocking off the parts cooling fan and keeping the bed hot.
View Quote


ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing.
The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework.
It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out.
Link Posted: 2/5/2017 11:54:36 PM EST
[#16]
Wicked cool!

Now just pass the HPA and we could be swimming in sub $10 suppressors!
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 12:24:23 AM EST
[#17]
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Originally Posted By Spartikis:
Wicked cool!

Now just pass the HPA and we could be swimming in sub $10 suppressors!
View Quote

That one might be a little optimistic for 3d printing, but it would happen when somebody with access to an injection molder spent the afternoon making a set of dies. PA66 GF33 would prob do better than any filament you could buy for a printer.

Fuck muh r&d and roi, it would only take a sat afternoon to draw up and cut dies that would spit out thousands of disposable muzzle devices for piss money.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 7:52:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: Meche_03] [#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:


ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing.
The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework.
It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out.
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By pdxshooter:
I was able to get Bridge Nylon print on my Monoprice Mini by blocking off the parts cooling fan and keeping the bed hot.


ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate (lexan. Yes, you can print bulletproof shit1!!) are notoriously difficult to print because of the heat expansion thing.
The guys that struggle with it are usually the guys that thought they would just plug a spool of awesomeness in and didn't do their homework.
It really isn't that bad when you get learned and take the (little) extra steps needed to ensure it works out.


I've taken to encloseing the ultimaker when printing PLA.  My problem stems from the vendor's stating their systems print ABS as the machine is shipped from the factory.   We enclosed our MakerBot to get better prints.  I've hacked a cube x so I could use our own slicer and filament instead of the proprietary crap.

edited for spelling, f-ing autocorrect
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 9:57:15 AM EST
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Meche_03:


I've taken to including the ultimaker when printing PLA.  My problem stems from the vendor's stating their systems print ABS as the machine is shipped from the factory.   We enclosed on MakerBot to get better prints.  I've backed a cube x so I could use our on slicer and filament instead of the proprietary crap.
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Yeah I don't of any consumer grade printers that are actually ready to make quality turn key ABS prints.

I've turned to Makergeeks' hi-temp pla for most stuff now, it doesn't warp, it's tough and flexible, good layer adhesion, and sands nicely. Makergeeks' Raptor Series PLA
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 10:04:10 AM EST
[#20]
Man that's awesome

Good work
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 10:12:50 AM EST
[#21]
My Stratasys waits patiently...
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 10:17:40 AM EST
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:


Yup.

For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print.
http://www.thingiverse.com/

There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun.

Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter.
There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed

Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors.
One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined
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Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:


Where'd you upload? Thingiverse?


Yup.

For those of you that aren't familiar with it, tons of shit that people have drawn up and posted for people to print.
http://www.thingiverse.com/

There is a bunch of goofy shit, but there are some very neat, creative, and useful things also. Everything under the sun.

Was patching up smoked hdd late sun night to avoid the mon morn panic. Needed a 3.5 to 2.5 hdd adapter.
There were quite a few options on there so all I had to do was d/l the file and fire up the printer. No witching hour walmart run needed

Here at gd, you guys might be more interested to know that they make flexible (soft) filaments in many colors.
One could print their own fleshlights (or dildos) if one were so inclined


3D printed fleshlights. Now we're talking
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 10:27:56 AM EST
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home.
View Quote


Hypothesis:  You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance.

Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere.  The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors).

Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available.  They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured.  There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive.

To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel.  These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy.

However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there.


But...

What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside?  You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage.  But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes.  After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes.  Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets.  The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure.

When fired, some of the polymer will melt away.  This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities.  With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away.

The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc.  A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost.  You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight).
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 10:41:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: captainpooby] [#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By LRRPF52:

I have yet to see anyone making the argument that rimfire suppressors need to be expensive.

Heavy, outdated tech center fire cans can be made for $150-$400, and will satisfy the cheap demographic just fine.

$400-$1000 suppressors will still be desirable by people who want lightweight and certain decibel + no POI shift performance.

For those that want reduced back pressure, you will pay even more.
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This is 1 1/2 x7", weighs 11 ozs and costs 75 bucks. 90 bucks for the 9 inch model and 50 bucks for a 1x5" rimfire model. No cheap freeze plugs either, it's all machined from 6061.

If HPA passes, I expect these prices to be even lower.

Link Posted: 2/6/2017 11:01:57 AM EST
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:


Uh, probably about as much liability as all the people who actually sell real, physical ITAR-controlled items like night vision goggles and firearms.   Which is to say, zero.

My body, uh, inbox is ready.  

I mean, I could redo from scratch what he's done in my Rhinocad program going from those pictures he posted.   But there's only so many hours in a day.
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Well.  Good point. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 11:07:57 AM EST
[#26]
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 11:08:02 AM EST
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By swede1986:


Couldn't he just destroy this one and then make a new one with the same serial number?
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Originally Posted By swede1986:
Originally Posted By David0858:


And $200 and a long wait down the drain when it's disposed of.


Couldn't he just destroy this one and then make a new one with the same serial number?
Legally no, but practically yes. He'd simply keep his big mouth shut. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 11:28:39 AM EST
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes. 
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Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 11:29:53 AM EST
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By woozman:


All valid points. But do I care about longevity when I can make another for a couple bucks?
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You don't, if HPA passes and it's just a range toy. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 1:29:12 PM EST
[#30]
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:

Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes. 

Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says
You don't need your can to last forever if you don't have the burden of the NFA.  

When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 1:43:26 PM EST
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
You don't need your can to last forever if you don't have the burden of the NFA.  

When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans.
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They're probably more common now.  But there will always be a market for that kind of product.

See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 1:45:39 PM EST
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kuraki:

They're probably more common now.  But there will always be a market for that kind of product.

See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
You don't need your can to last forever if you don't have the burden of the NFA.  

When people find out the trade off in dB and life for a cheaper can with stamped stainless baffles I think those will be much more common than high end cans.

They're probably more common now.  But there will always be a market for that kind of product.

See the $425 cast iron pan thread for proof
LOL 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 2:28:42 PM EST
[#33]
Slightly OT - has anyone done an additive manufacturing lathe yet?  In my mind current 3D printers are basically the additive version of a mill.  One could do the same thing with a lathe, starting with some type of core onto which material is deposited.  The big difference would be that the part could be radially assymetrical, as the nozzle could be timed with the rotation. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 2:54:16 PM EST
[#34]
Ive though about something akin to a fdm lathe, more of a polar coordinate machine, a center rotational axis with radial and height linear axis.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 3:04:50 PM EST
[#35]
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 3:30:18 PM EST
[#36]
Before computers, lathes were an easy way to make nice round things.
With cnc, lathes are no longer really needed, but are still better suited to some operations.

A lathe printer would be a neat project, but not sure what it would do that a normal one wouldn't.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 3:46:02 PM EST
[#37]
Lots of files on thingi, which one is the OP's?
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 4:06:33 PM EST
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:


The main 3D printers/additive manufacturing that has a high degree of accuracy and at least semi-finished surfaces is laser metal powder sintering, where a bed of fine metal powder is melted together by the laser, then the next layer is put down carefully, and the laser does it again. There is also Laser Metal (direct) Deposition, where the metal powder stream is actually shot out with the laser, kind of like a plasma-cutter, but with the metal in the plasma and left behind. That's pretty accurate and provides a decent finish, but those are even more out of reach (for now?) than the powder-bed Laser Metal Sintering printers. And most Laser Metal Deposition systems requires either a big vacuum booth, or an inert atmosphere booth that purges most all the oxygen from it.

And of course, while they can do a LOT with the various alloys and materials they use, and the fact it comes out as powder/grains helps mitigate things, there's still ultimately the issue of if the hardness and temper of the metal exposed to high heat to deposit it meets the needs of the parts you want, and if any further heat treating or annealing will fix that for you if it's not what you needed.

There also have been 3D metal printers that essentially are like a wire feed MIG/TIG welder that just lays down layers of bead building up parts, but the result is rough and blobby, and not practical unless you're prepared to do some additional machining. Most of these I've seen to date are more techno-art projects or "because I could" kind of things.

Milwaukee Maker Faire last fall I saw a company with a 3D metal printer of sorts that was somewhat like you describe, but it would be more of a mill than a lathe. This company's trick was to lay down metal layers with a more basic wire-fed TIG welder, but then a 3-axis milling head would follow behind right afterward making each layer smooth and perfect. There's obviously many kinds internal sloping voids and shapes this printer can't make a clean edge on, but the huge benefit was that this printer is only a few thousand dollars, and that's a start. And it also works in regular plastic filaments too if so desired.
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I wasn't talking about metal at all. 
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 4:11:36 PM EST
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Before computers, lathes were an easy way to make nice round things.
With cnc, lathes are no longer really needed, but are still better suited to some operations.

A lathe printer would be a neat project, but not sure what it would do that a normal one wouldn't.
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Probably for some operations it would be substantially faster.  If you had a section that didn't require interrupted filament deposition, you could then speed up the workpiece past what the rotary encoder could normally handle.  Then when the thickness of that deposit gets close to final, ramp the rotation speed back down until the encoder becomes useful again.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 6:58:08 PM EST
[#40]
Mechanically, they can already run way faster than what you can actually print at.
You can only melt plastic so fast and have it stick. Also need time between passes to let the previous layer firm up, or weird shit happens.

If you added a 4th axis, might be able to print some things that you could not otherwise. Doubt there is firmware or slicers that support this though.
You always need something for it to print on. Vertical walls are easy, but something flat and/or unsupported is a bit trickier.
The zig zaggy stuff in timkels mag well is a temporary support so the other side of the mag well has something to rest on as it prints.
It just pops out when it is finished.

Link Posted: 2/6/2017 7:04:39 PM EST
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TrojanMan:


Hypothesis:  You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance.

Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere.  The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors).

Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available.  They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured.  There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive.

To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel.  These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy.

However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there.


But...

What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside?  You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage.  But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes.  After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes.  Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets.  The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure.

When fired, some of the polymer will melt away.  This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities.  With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away.

The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc.  A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost.  You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight).
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Originally Posted By TrojanMan:
Originally Posted By mp9fan:
Banning polymer suppressors by govt, or simply at ranges,won't accomplish anything. And polymer suppressors will continue to improve with community knowledge and materials knowledge. Further , at some point in the future metal infused prints and straight metal dust prints will be more available for the hobbyist and so more suppressors will be made at home.


Hypothesis:  You could even use the polymer's fragile nature to the benefit of performance.

Muzzle pop is due to rapid expansion, which is driven by pressure differential between the propellant gasses and the atmosphere.  The easiest way to reduce the pressure is to reduce the temperature, which is the primary mechanism of action of a suppressor (along with increasing the time/impulse of venting, gas mixing, and other factors).

Metal suppressors are limited in terms of performance because the gas can only transfer so much energy to the can, and the gas inside, in the limited time available.  They also can't have terribly complex internal geometries, because of course it does need to be manufactured.  There's also (currently) a strong concern for durability, because stamps are time consuming and expensive.

To improve the performance of a traditional suppressor, you can use an ablative like water or wire-pulling gel.  These arrest sparks and solid matter within the combustion products, and the phase change consumes a great deal of thermal energy.

However, ablatives must be applied to the suppressor before use, they can leak and cause similar problems, they're generally inconvenient, and they don't offer all that much of a performance increase to make it worth it for the average shooter, except for novelty purposes here and there.


But...

What if a 3d printed can were designed with a very complex internal geometry, which maximized surface area inside?  You have more effective heat transfer, which is an obvious advantage.  But, within that complex geometry you create many nearly-sealed pockets, breached only by small pinholes.  After printing, the can is submerged in wire-pulling gel, and the tank pressurized to force the gel into the cavities through the pinholes.  Then you centrifuge the excess gel out, so you're left with a can that handles, stores, attaches, etc. without any mess, but which contains a goodly bit of gel stored inside the many small pockets.  The gel is simply too viscous to exit through the pinholes under atmospheric pressure.

When fired, some of the polymer will melt away.  This consumes a tiny bit of energy, but what it really does is to expose the gel contained within the cavities.  With successive shots, more cavities/gel are exposed as the can wears away.

The result is improved performance, perhaps even over a traditional metallic can, longer life as the gel also helps keep the polymer cool, and lower risk of fire or baffle strikes from can heat/droop/etc.  A pressurized tank of gel and a rudimentary centrifuge aren't adding much in the way of expense to the manufacturing cost.  You're still well below the cost of a single box of ammo for the whole can, which makes them pretty disposable once all the cavities/gel are consumed (which could simply be determined by perceived performance, or by weight).


Those complex internal geometries would be easily accomplished by an SLA printer, but I'm not certain the materials available for SLA printing are as strong as some others available.
Link Posted: 2/6/2017 7:32:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: mp9fan] [#42]
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Originally Posted By R2point0:
Slightly OT - has anyone done an additive manufacturing lathe yet?  In my mind current 3D printers are basically the additive version of a mill.  One could do the same thing with a lathe, starting with some type of core onto which material is deposited.  The big difference would be that the part could be radially assymetrical, as the nozzle could be timed with the rotation. 
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I've seen rotation on the metal "printers."

Offtopic but apparently here's a 3D printed metal 1911:

Here's an LMD printer that uses rotation. Kinda neat:
Laser metal deposition manufacturing (LMD)


There was a german machine I saw on the youtubes last year that was (I believe) a mix of CNC/LMD. It would lay the metal dust down and heat it with a laser to "print" an object, then do a tool swap and begin milling the part to shape, then add more material, then mill, and on and on until it had a finished carburetor. But now I can't find it. My youtube-fu is bad

ETA: link fix
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 1:46:02 AM EST
[#43]
Well, if we get the HPA passed, count me in on 3d shenanigans.  I've got just over a foot of build volume on my machine
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 3:54:11 AM EST
[#44]
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Originally Posted By doc_Zox:
housing the printed core in a serialized threaded tube would be a prudent next step
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Someone said it, this was my idea. Make a serialized tube that the enclosed baffle assembly slides or screws in to. Bonus points if the threaded barrel part stays on the tube so the replacement baffle assemblies are swappable in seconds.
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 10:22:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: AJ_Dual] [#45]
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 7:52:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: Meche_03] [#46]
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Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:


A 3D printer with a bed that could rotate and angle itself adding one or even two extra axes would be amazing. I'm sure someone's working on it.  That would be great for making overhangs and ledges without supports, because you could just temporarily rotate the work so the overhang was pointing up, and would support itself. Although I suppose two nozzle extruders with the second material being the water dissolvable PVA filament already solves a lot of those problems, unless it's a completely closed void you can't wash it out of.
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Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Mechanically, they can already run way faster than what you can actually print at.
You can only melt plastic so fast and have it stick. Also need time between passes to let the previous layer firm up, or weird shit happens.

If you added a 4th axis, might be able to print some things that you could not otherwise. Doubt there is firmware or slicers that support this though.
You always need something for it to print on. Vertical walls are easy, but something flat and/or unsupported is a bit trickier.
The zig zaggy stuff in timkels mag well is a temporary support so the other side of the mag well has something to rest on as it prints.
It just pops out when it is finished.

https://s5.postimg.org/w90725tzb/ar15_Mini_Rec.jpg


A 3D printer with a bed that could rotate and angle itself adding one or even two extra axes would be amazing. I'm sure someone's working on it.  That would be great for making overhangs and ledges without supports, because you could just temporarily rotate the work so the overhang was pointing up, and would support itself. Although I suppose two nozzle extruders with the second material being the water dissolvable PVA filament already solves a lot of those problems, unless it's a completely closed void you can't wash it out of.


I've seen a 5 axis Mori seki used with a LENs additive setup as a tool in the tool magazine.  So powder metal is injected by air into a weld pool created by a laser.   It builds up metal for a while, then parks the laser head in the corner of the machine enclosure.  Pulls a cutting  tool from the tool magazine and machines like normal.  Puts the tools away and reattached laser head and powder injection device.   The target use was to rebuild worn areas in expensive parts and remachine them to spec instead of totally replacing the parts.  They show complete builds in the videos

Additive Manufacturing - LASERTEC 65 DED
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 8:07:15 PM EST
[#47]
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Originally Posted By jrzy:
At $200.00 for the form 1?
How the fuck is that called disposable ?
Unless you're going to fracture the law and print a bunch with the same serial number.
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I'm not sayin.........but I'm just sayin.......
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 8:55:40 PM EST
[#48]
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Originally Posted By CTM1:


No longer allowed, the tube must be the serialized part.
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I wasnt aware 29P had been officially promulgated as a rule yet.
Link Posted: 2/7/2017 8:57:11 PM EST
[#49]
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2:


Uh, probably about as much liability as all the people who actually sell real, physical ITAR-controlled items like night vision goggles and firearms.   Which is to say, zero.

My body, uh, inbox is ready.  

I mean, I could redo from scratch what he's done in my Rhinocad program going from those pictures he posted.   But there's only so many hours in a day.
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They pay ITAR taxes to sell stuff like that
Link Posted: 2/8/2017 10:35:45 AM EST
[#50]
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