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Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/EBC42645-8552-4870-B302-42DBB0D18A57-1404194.gif The best answer I can give you is “maybe” On the polyurea / lithium side of things. But probably. But if you cleaned it out, should be good to go. Polyurea Grease’s are getting extremely popular. See John Deere. I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. View Quote Thanks, that puts my mind at ease, and chart saved. Are polyurea greases advantageous over lithium for general purpose applications? Unless its easy to clean out the old grease it doesn't make sense to switch I wouldn't think, but if it is or starting new, is a polyurea better than lithium? If course then there's the shear stable variety which adds to the confusion. |
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Quoted: I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. View Quote Can you talk about what I've always been told that grease turns into oil when it gets up to temp in wheel bearings? And then reverts to grease when it cools. If I remember things you said before that it's not true. Thanks |
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TW25B is my preferred firearms grease. Unless the manufacturer recommends something specific like Lubriplate 130AA, I will use the TW25B.
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Quoted: Thanks, that puts my mind at ease, and chart saved. Are polyurea greases advantageous over lithium for general purpose applications? Unless its easy to clean out the old grease it doesn't make sense to switch I wouldn't think, but if it is or starting new, is a polyurea better than lithium? If course then there's the shear stable variety which adds to the confusion. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/EBC42645-8552-4870-B302-42DBB0D18A57-1404194.gif The best answer I can give you is “maybe” On the polyurea / lithium side of things. But probably. But if you cleaned it out, should be good to go. Polyurea Grease’s are getting extremely popular. See John Deere. I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. Thanks, that puts my mind at ease, and chart saved. Are polyurea greases advantageous over lithium for general purpose applications? Unless its easy to clean out the old grease it doesn't make sense to switch I wouldn't think, but if it is or starting new, is a polyurea better than lithium? If course then there's the shear stable variety which adds to the confusion. You’re really opening up a rabbit hole here. I’m at dinner with my parents right now. I’ll post more detailed here in a bit. And some technical data too for you to dig into. A very good paper written on it and polyurea greases. |
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Quoted: For me TW25B is by far the best grease that you can use. I have not found any other that can stand the time or heat. What do you use ? View Quote works better in my sigs, berretta, and ARs. Much less wear...and easier to clean up. |
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Quoted: Can you talk about what I've always been told that grease turns into oil when it gets up to temp in wheel bearings? And then reverts to grease when it cools. If I remember things you said before that it's not true. Thanks View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. Can you talk about what I've always been told that grease turns into oil when it gets up to temp in wheel bearings? And then reverts to grease when it cools. If I remember things you said before that it's not true. Thanks It does not turn into oil. Grease’s are made up of these components: 1. Base oil 2. Your thickener/soap (lithium, calcium, aluminum, clay, etc.) 3. Your additives (vi improvers, corrosion protection, EP additives, tackifiers, etc.) 4. Dye (all grease starts out black. Just a pro tip.) The oil will bleed out of the grease with temperature changes. It doesn’t magically come back. The idea of the grease is a barrier lubricant. The oil helps carry everything. Otherwise it won’t move. I’ll take a picture of a product the oil bleed out of, and a new grease tube later if I can. But once the oil goes away the lubrication property of the grease goes down as it can’t move as easily. If you want to know more about that last part, I can go into it. But to answer your question, the oil doesn’t come back. |
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Thread hi-jack complete, but I think in this instance it's acceptable.
Foxtrot08 please post more if and when you can, I am certainly interested. Thanks |
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Barrel nut threads = aeroshell 64
Trigger = mobil 28 General purpose = super lube |
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I've been using Aeroshell 5 on my planes, trucks, and airport tractors sine we were buying it bulk.
I'm slowly switching over to Mystic JT-6 HT on Foxtrot08 recommendation since I don't see any good reason to spend $12/tube on grease on anything that doesn't require it. I have a Cat D6N that I got pissed off at and ran for 1K hours without greasing and I really didn't notice any abnormal wear to pins and trunions. |
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Quoted: ... Mower deck spindles. We’ve seen arfcom posts about this. Just peoples mower deck spindle going out... why? Well two reasons. Either you hit something and snapped it. Or the bearing ran out of lubricant. Didn’t grease enough? Well either grease more (clearly not happening) or get a better greased. ... View Quote Gotta disagree with you there. Most mower deck spindles are assembled with sealed bearings - even if they have a zerk fitting. Counter-intuitive, I know, but if you want to actually grease the bearings, you have to disassemble the spindle and use a pick to remove the grease seals installed on the inner sides of the bearings in question. Many people are greasing away on their spindles, & accomplishing ... nothing. Your Riding Lawn Mower''s Dirty Little Secret Steve's Small Engine Saloon video explaining the spindle problem. |
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Quoted: Gotta disagree with you there. Most mower deck spindles are assembled with sealed bearings - even if they have a zerk fitting. Counter-intuitive, I know, but if you want to actually grease the bearings, you have to disassemble the spindle and use a pick to remove the grease seals installed on the inner sides of the bearings in question. Many people are greasing away on their spindles, adn accomplishing ... nothing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3eC2OIg85o Steve's Small Engine Saloon video explaining the spindle problem. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: ... Mower deck spindles. We’ve seen arfcom posts about this. Just peoples mower deck spindle going out... why? Well two reasons. Either you hit something and snapped it. Or the bearing ran out of lubricant. Didn’t grease enough? Well either grease more (clearly not happening) or get a better greased. ... Gotta disagree with you there. Most mower deck spindles are assembled with sealed bearings - even if they have a zerk fitting. Counter-intuitive, I know, but if you want to actually grease the bearings, you have to disassemble the spindle and use a pick to remove the grease seals installed on the inner sides of the bearings in question. Many people are greasing away on their spindles, adn accomplishing ... nothing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3eC2OIg85o Steve's Small Engine Saloon video explaining the spindle problem. Grease able. Very grease able. Proof that you want =/= always equal reality. Lots of mower deck spindles still require grease. (Discbine actually uses a semi fluid grease. And that’s an entirely different topic. Mower deck from the 2305 does represent my point more so. ) As for greasing the actual bearing in the spindle, lots still require that. Having a bottom grease seal is a different topic. How much grease said bearing requires. Same with axle seals on tractors, etc. My point still remains the same: Why use a inferior product that costs more? |
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Gun grease - I got several tubes of Tetra gun grease I got back in the early 2000s. It does just fine for me.
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Is there anything better out there than John Deere SD Polyurea for mower spindles and front end loader pins? I've used the SD since my compact tractor was new, but I'm open to change if there is better product for similar or less money.
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Quoted: Is there anything better out there than John Deere SD Polyurea for mower spindles and front end loader pins? I've used the SD since my compact tractor was new, but I'm open to change if there is better product for similar or less money. View Quote Short answer: No Long answer: Another shear stable polyurea grease. P66 Polyurea, Chevron SRI (arguably the father of all polyurea greases, as it came from amaco.) Mobil polytex series, citgo polyurea / mystik polyurea would all be equal. Shop your local lubricants provider. Save some money. But better quality? Not really. Not many polyurea grease manufacturers out there really. |
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Quoted: Thread hi-jack complete, but I think in this instance it's acceptable. Foxtrot08 please post more if and when you can, I am certainly interested. Thanks View Quote So... Let’s start with a short article on why polyurea greases. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31367/using-polyurea-grease TL;DR - polyurea greases kicks ass, generally overkill, and are kind of expensive. But probably the way of the future. Next up, why polyurea greases and how they’re made: https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/LS/Grease/Polyurea%20Greases_tlt%20article_March14.pdf TL;DR. Polyurea Grease, isn’t actually grease in technical terms. But acts like one. It’s kinda complicated. But they’re a heat resistant, oxidation resistant product that extreme pressure additives and base oils can be added to, with pretty good results. Offering protection in a wide temperature range. Finally... problems with testing of various greases. Including the cross compatibility of polyurea grease and the different variations of polyurea greases due to their chemistry. https://www.amrri.com/PDF/RP2016_Wurzbach_GreaseCompatibility_Rev3.pdf TL;DR: Fuck this one is long. Only read the above if you want to be like “holy shit the lubricants industry is bigger than I thought. No wonder there are well paid professionals to figure this shit out.” Extremely short version: Industrial lubrication is complicated. Use a decent product. |
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Quoted: What do you think about Red Line CV2 in a grease gun. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. What do you think about Red Line CV2 in a grease gun. It’s a fantastic general purpose grease. A bit over priced for the redline name. But very very good. |
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Depends what it is. Plain ol' black moly grease for barrel nuts. Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty for most vehicle grease points and Timken wheel bearing grease for wheel bearings.
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Grease is grease is grease. Except when you dunk your boat trailer in saltwater. Then you use the best shit available regardless or irregardless of price.
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Here's one for you. What additive is in some of the lithium greases that makes them smell like gear oil, and for that matter, why does gear oil stink so badly?
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Quoted: John Deere SD Polyurea https://www.johndeerestore.com/medias/TY6341-Media-JDActual1200Wx1200H?context=bWFzdGVyfHJvb3R8MjA3NzA2fGltYWdlL2pwZWd8aDI3L2g2Ni84OTE1ODM4MDQyMTQyLmpwZ3xmYmJjZTkzNGU2YzgzNmQ5ZDJkOGViYmY3NjFiOTgwZTY2MzEzM2E2OTFmMjBkMTE0NzUxMjM1ZWY1OWMwYjNi View Quote Same... On the tractors and such, and lots of it. TW25B on the rifles and handguns. |
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Quoted: So... Let’s start with a short article on why polyurea greases. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31367/using-polyurea-grease TL;DR - polyurea greases kicks ass, generally overkill, and are kind of expensive. But probably the way of the future. Next up, why polyurea greases and how they’re made: https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/LS/Grease/Polyurea%20Greases_tlt%20article_March14.pdf TL;DR. Polyurea Grease, isn’t actually grease in technical terms. But acts like one. It’s kinda complicated. But they’re a heat resistant, oxidation resistant product that extreme pressure additives and base oils can be added to, with pretty good results. Offering protection in a wide temperature range. Finally... problems with testing of various greases. Including the cross compatibility of polyurea grease and the different variations of polyurea greases due to their chemistry. https://www.amrri.com/PDF/RP2016_Wurzbach_GreaseCompatibility_Rev3.pdf TL;DR: Fuck this one is long. Only read the above if you want to be like “holy shit the lubricants industry is bigger than I thought. No wonder there are well paid professionals to figure this shit out.” Extremely short version: Industrial lubrication is complicated. Use a decent product. View Quote I'll be reading those links tomorrow. How long is grease "good for" if stored in moderate conditions, with regard to additives, thickener, base oil separation? Asking about MP grease that's readily available and at nominal prices not the Klubber or Krytox types. |
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Quoted: I'll be reading those links tomorrow. How long is grease "good for" if stored in moderate conditions, with regard to additives, thickener, base oil separation? Asking about MP grease that's readily available and at nominal prices not the Klubber or Krytox types. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: So... Let’s start with a short article on why polyurea greases. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31367/using-polyurea-grease TL;DR - polyurea greases kicks ass, generally overkill, and are kind of expensive. But probably the way of the future. Next up, why polyurea greases and how they’re made: https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/LS/Grease/Polyurea%20Greases_tlt%20article_March14.pdf TL;DR. Polyurea Grease, isn’t actually grease in technical terms. But acts like one. It’s kinda complicated. But they’re a heat resistant, oxidation resistant product that extreme pressure additives and base oils can be added to, with pretty good results. Offering protection in a wide temperature range. Finally... problems with testing of various greases. Including the cross compatibility of polyurea grease and the different variations of polyurea greases due to their chemistry. https://www.amrri.com/PDF/RP2016_Wurzbach_GreaseCompatibility_Rev3.pdf TL;DR: Fuck this one is long. Only read the above if you want to be like “holy shit the lubricants industry is bigger than I thought. No wonder there are well paid professionals to figure this shit out.” Extremely short version: Industrial lubrication is complicated. Use a decent product. I'll be reading those links tomorrow. How long is grease "good for" if stored in moderate conditions, with regard to additives, thickener, base oil separation? Asking about MP grease that's readily available and at nominal prices not the Klubber or Krytox types. Really depends on the quality of grease, the type of grease and the base oils used. In climate controlled areas? Probably a year or more before you see oil bleed off. Garage in central Texas seeing 100F+ days? A lot shorter. I see oil bleed off in my garage here in North eastern Ohio. I have one grease gun set up with a needle greaser for my 2305s drive shaft U joints. I ruin tubes of grease with it. Why? Because I use a tiny amount twice a year. And it hangs in my garage that’s not climate controlled, all year. And all the oil leaks out of it. As it’s a lighter base oil full synthetic grease which, has its own issues. |
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Here's a fun thread hijack:
For those of us who still lube at least some of our cast bullets with conventional bullet lubes instead of powder-coating.....how and why do lubes work? It's easy enough to say that heat and friction cause leading with unlubed bullets. what does lube accomplish on a lead bullet at 2000'? Is it really a lubricant, or is it a gas seal, or both? If you dig much into bullet lube recipes they seem like alchemy - and I suspect much of what is known isn't necessarily true. |
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I just went through all this myself: what grease to use and will it work across all my vehicle applications?
Its always best to use what the spec calls out. However, when there's no spec? What brand has been around a long time, its readily available and has choices along the lubrication spectrum. I chose Mystik. JT6 hi-temp#2 for suspension, driveline, bearings, etc... JT6 multi-purpose #2 for everything else. Between researching bobstheoilguy forums, the NLGI specs amd other reaources Mystic came out on top. |
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Saving a couple bucks on grease isn’t worth it compared to downtime, my labour, or the cost of bearings.
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Quoted: Really depends on the quality of grease, the type of grease and the base oils used. In climate controlled areas? Probably a year or more before you see oil bleed off. Garage in central Texas seeing 100F+ days? A lot shorter. I see oil bleed off in my garage here in North eastern Ohio. I have one grease gun set up with a needle greaser for my 2305s drive shaft U joints. I ruin tubes of grease with it. Why? Because I use a tiny amount twice a year. And it hangs in my garage that’s not climate controlled, all year. And all the oil leaks out of it. As it’s a lighter base oil full synthetic grease which, has its own issues. View Quote Holy shit that's A LOT shorter than I would have thought. Even a tub of grease, sitting in my garage cabinet (never gets above about 85 in there)? Can it be stirred or mixed or it's shot? In a tube? Grease cartridges in grease guns I can see oil separating and leaking out, but tubs and tubes I hope aren't as susceptible. |
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Quoted: Holy shit that's A LOT shorter than I would have thought. Even a tub of grease, sitting in my garage cabinet (never gets above about 85 in there)? Can it be stirred or mixed or it's shot? In a tube? Grease cartridges in grease guns I can see oil separating and leaking out, but tubs and tubes I hope aren't as susceptible. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Really depends on the quality of grease, the type of grease and the base oils used. In climate controlled areas? Probably a year or more before you see oil bleed off. Garage in central Texas seeing 100F+ days? A lot shorter. I see oil bleed off in my garage here in North eastern Ohio. I have one grease gun set up with a needle greaser for my 2305s drive shaft U joints. I ruin tubes of grease with it. Why? Because I use a tiny amount twice a year. And it hangs in my garage that’s not climate controlled, all year. And all the oil leaks out of it. As it’s a lighter base oil full synthetic grease which, has its own issues. Holy shit that's A LOT shorter than I would have thought. Even a tub of grease, sitting in my garage cabinet (never gets above about 85 in there)? Can it be stirred or mixed or it's shot? In a tube? Grease cartridges in grease guns I can see oil separating and leaking out, but tubs and tubes I hope aren't as susceptible. If the oil puddles out of the tub, then yeah it's not good. It's shot. The process to make grease is A LOT more extensive than the process to make oil and other fluid lubricants. It requires reactor kettles and such, as it's much more of a chemical reaction, then just mixing. Grease is arguably good as long as it's still it's original texture. As long as it's not getting that dry/crunchy feeling to it, that means there is still oil impregnated in the soap. Once the grease dries up and it's just the soap / thickener? It's now not really going to serve its purpose. Again, when I get home I'll try to get some pics. |
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Quoted: If the oil puddles out of the tub, then yeah it's not good. It's shot. The process to make grease is A LOT more extensive than the process to make oil and other fluid lubricants. It requires reactor kettles and such, as it's much more of a chemical reaction, then just mixing. Grease is arguably good as long as it's still it's original texture. As long as it's not getting that dry/crunchy feeling to it, that means there is still oil impregnated in the soap. Once the grease dries up and it's just the soap / thickener? It's now not really going to serve its purpose. Again, when I get home I'll try to get some pics. View Quote Quite disconcerting to be honest. Never knew grease was this, "sensitive", if you will. |
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I was a radar operator when I was in the Navy. We would send the new guy down to the engineering section to get some relative beating grease.
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Quoted: Quite disconcerting to be honest. Never knew grease was this, "sensitive", if you will. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: If the oil puddles out of the tub, then yeah it's not good. It's shot. The process to make grease is A LOT more extensive than the process to make oil and other fluid lubricants. It requires reactor kettles and such, as it's much more of a chemical reaction, then just mixing. Grease is arguably good as long as it's still it's original texture. As long as it's not getting that dry/crunchy feeling to it, that means there is still oil impregnated in the soap. Once the grease dries up and it's just the soap / thickener? It's now not really going to serve its purpose. Again, when I get home I'll try to get some pics. Quite disconcerting to be honest. Never knew grease was this, "sensitive", if you will. Yep. It gets real fun dealing with critical applications. Certain types of greases are much harder to make (calcium complex) and it has a higher failure rate. Getting the wrong tackifier in grease. Putting grease throughout a steel mill only to have it not be able to pump... Oh industrial greases are a fucking blast. But big money. The reason why I like Mystik JT6 HT so much? It’s mystiks pride and joy. As well, they make it themselves. Most companies do not make their own greases. And the top 2 grease manufacturers in the US? Yeah they don’t have a brand. They make everyone else’s grease. Most major oil companies don’t make their own grease. My house brand grease, is a major brands grease, made by the second largest grease maker in the world. When they make this major brands grease, they make mine right after... |
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Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/4A96C33D-BD65-4C78-BE7D-15D356ABB165-1478177.jpg Same grease side by side. Left side - about 3-4 years old. Old bled out of it. Dry gritty consistency. Right side - 3-4 months old. Smooth buttery consistency. View Quote So if the grease in a tube or a can/tub, and the oil can't leak out and go somewhere else, it can still be useless? Perhaps the top portion would be dry, but the bottom where the oil would pool would still be usable right, or is it a case of they separated, and stirring/mixing them now won't do any good? Sorry, you may have answered this earlier and I didn't understand. My dad has a can of grease in his garage, with a big hole in the lid for a brush. He's had that for years and it's still got a pretty decent smooth texture to it. No idea what it is, just that it's grease. I hope the can of JT-6 I got doesn't go to shit a year from now as that will likely last me the rest of my life. ETA: At 5-6 bucks a can it's cheap enough to replace every couple of years but frankly I don't like the idea of throwing a pound of grease into the trash, and disposing of it properly is a damn hassle. ETA again: Which polyurea grease would you recommend, ideally one that is an EP grease? |
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Quoted: So if the grease in a tube or a can/tub, and the oil can't leak out and go somewhere else, it can still be useless? Perhaps the top portion would be dry, but the bottom where the oil would pool would still be usable right, or is it a case of they separated, and stirring/mixing them now won't do any good? Sorry, you may have answered this earlier and I didn't understand. My dad has a can of grease in his garage, with a big hole in the lid for a brush. He's had that for years and it's still got a pretty decent smooth texture to it. No idea what it is, just that it's grease. I hope the can of JT-6 I got doesn't go to shit a year from now as that will likely last me the rest of my life. ETA: At 5-6 bucks a can it's cheap enough to replace every couple of years but frankly I don't like the idea of throwing a pound of grease into the trash, and disposing of it properly is a damn hassle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/4A96C33D-BD65-4C78-BE7D-15D356ABB165-1478177.jpg Same grease side by side. Left side - about 3-4 years old. Old bled out of it. Dry gritty consistency. Right side - 3-4 months old. Smooth buttery consistency. So if the grease in a tube or a can/tub, and the oil can't leak out and go somewhere else, it can still be useless? Perhaps the top portion would be dry, but the bottom where the oil would pool would still be usable right, or is it a case of they separated, and stirring/mixing them now won't do any good? Sorry, you may have answered this earlier and I didn't understand. My dad has a can of grease in his garage, with a big hole in the lid for a brush. He's had that for years and it's still got a pretty decent smooth texture to it. No idea what it is, just that it's grease. I hope the can of JT-6 I got doesn't go to shit a year from now as that will likely last me the rest of my life. ETA: At 5-6 bucks a can it's cheap enough to replace every couple of years but frankly I don't like the idea of throwing a pound of grease into the trash, and disposing of it properly is a damn hassle. Grease in a can / tub / pail / keg / drum / tote will separate eventually. You will see the oil puddle on top or on the very bottom depending. Tubes it’s just much more evident as the oil will literally leave the packaging. In those containers it’s more stationary. However due to what most people use it for in small containers like a can or tub, it’s not so much of a big deal as it is in a tube or something you’re going to pump. As well, since it has a lid, it will be more stable than an open tube in a grease gun, that has air / humidity / etc always affecting it. Just keep an eye on it. You know what to look for now. And yes it will typically go in layers. The outer layer will oxidation damage first. (Grease does oxidize like a motor oil does with time too. Just more stable.) |
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When i use grease, it is TW25, but I've gone pretty much exclusive with SLIP.
Jay |
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For most of my applications, Bel Ray Waterproof. Keep a little moly for barrel nuts. G-Man VTG for trigger engagement surfaces. Some silicone for brakes and plumbing.
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Real world grease test- I have a 2019 Outdoors RV 24RLS travel trailer. It is a heavy trailer with a GVWR of 9995#. I was running Valvoline wheel bearing grease and after a 60mph run down the highway wheel hub temperatures would hover in the 160 degree range on an IR thermometer.
After reading Foxtrot08's previous thread entries a while back I switched over to the Mystic JT6. Same run, same speeds and hub temps were down in the 110 range. Thank you Fox! |
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RIG grease. Works well, sticky and tacky, and lasts a long time.
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