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Posted: 9/21/2016 8:51:18 AM EST
[#1]
After finishing their 17/22/31 frame, I really wish they would offer a 26/27/33 frame.
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Posted: 9/21/2016 9:25:45 AM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: After finishing their 17/22/31 frame, I really wish they would offer a 26/27/33 frame. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 10:55:24 AM EST
[#3]
I just ordered my FDE spectre kit on saturday from jsd supply. Also lone wolf 40 cal glock 24 barrel and glock 24 solid top stainless slide.... cant wait. All i need now is an upper and lower parts kit and some sights. I'm thinking factory glock for now with the adjustable rear sight. What have you guys gone with?
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Posted: 9/21/2016 11:01:01 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If they had one in 10mm I would buy in a heartbeat Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
After finishing their 17/22/31 frame, I really wish they would offer a 26/27/33 frame. They've been showing pics of a prototype 19 size. Not sure what they're plans are after that. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 4:51:04 PM EST
[#5]
Ok I'm intrigued. Looks kind of fun! I have some parts around so it won't be too big of a $ hit for me
I assume all of you are using a drill press with a sliding vise to "mill"? How tight of a drill press do you need? I have a an older Harbor Freight unit that's Ok but not "Bridgeport" Ok! Could it be done with a file if one were really patient? |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 5:14:05 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok I'm intrigued. Looks kind of fun! I have some parts around so it won't be too big of a $ hit for me I assume all of you are using a drill press with a sliding vise to "mill"? How tight of a drill press do you need? I have a an older Harbor Freight unit that's Ok but not "Bridgeport" Ok! Could it be done with a file if one were really patient? Search for Polymer80 in GD. I posted a pictorial walkthrough that only uses a drill, a sander, a saw, and some files. It's actually (IMO) EASIER to build these things w/o a drill press or mill. Might take longer, but it was significantly easier for me to do it with the saw than the press. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 6:35:27 PM EST
[#7]
shrug my mill at 1800 rpms made slick work of the front rails and no sanding other than knocking the sharp edge off was needed. Its also hand with the DRO to do the rear rails they did take some file work to get done.
Ill take my mill any day of the week :) but then again thats what I do for a living. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 6:41:23 PM EST
[#8]
The worst part of these kits is trying to find a realistically priced GLOCK upper for it. Most people want $400+ for a used one.
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Posted: 9/21/2016 7:56:58 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The worst part of these kits is trying to find a realistically priced GLOCK upper for it. Most people want $400+ for a used one. Gnguy1 on gunbroker. $328 for slides if you buy them with mags. LWD currently has slides for $175, barrels for $100, and completion kits for $100. $375 + shipping if you don't want any serial numbers on your Spectre. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 8:13:36 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gnguy1 on gunbroker. $328 for slides if you buy them with mags. LWD currently has slides for $175, barrels for $100, and completion kits for $100. $375 + shipping if you don't want any serial numbers on your Spectre. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: The worst part of these kits is trying to find a realistically priced GLOCK upper for it. Most people want $400+ for a used one. Gnguy1 on gunbroker. $328 for slides if you buy them with mags. LWD currently has slides for $175, barrels for $100, and completion kits for $100. $375 + shipping if you don't want any serial numbers on your Spectre. Don't forget sights, recoil spring assembly... Either way, I ended up getting a LWD G35 slide with 9mm threaded conversion barrel for mine. Should look... interesting. While I'd love to build it now, I plan on putting all the components away to build it with one of my sons or daughters when they are a bit older and interested.  |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 8:50:53 PM EST
[#11]
I have one, have not started it yet, but my use will be as a host for my Advantage Arms 22LR slide, so, just need lower parts.
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Posted: 9/21/2016 9:34:16 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget sights, recoil spring assembly... Either way, I ended up getting a LWD G35 slide with 9mm threaded conversion barrel for mine. Should look... interesting. While I'd love to build it now, I plan on putting all the components away to build it with one of my sons or daughters when they are a bit older and interested.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The worst part of these kits is trying to find a realistically priced GLOCK upper for it. Most people want $400+ for a used one. Gnguy1 on gunbroker. $328 for slides if you buy them with mags. LWD currently has slides for $175, barrels for $100, and completion kits for $100. $375 + shipping if you don't want any serial numbers on your Spectre. Don't forget sights, recoil spring assembly... Either way, I ended up getting a LWD G35 slide with 9mm threaded conversion barrel for mine. Should look... interesting. While I'd love to build it now, I plan on putting all the components away to build it with one of my sons or daughters when they are a bit older and interested.
Just in case I was misunderstood, gnguy1 sells the complete upper with recoil spring assembly and sights for $328. Sorry. Didn't want people thinking he sold incomplete stuff. Great deal. I think all his uppers cost that much too. I'm looking at building a 24 with a 23 length grip next. |
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Posted: 9/22/2016 5:59:16 PM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Search for Polymer80 in GD. I posted a pictorial walkthrough that only uses a drill, a sander, a saw, and some files. It's actually (IMO) EASIER to build these things w/o a drill press or mill. Might take longer, but it was significantly easier for me to do it with the saw than the press. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Ok I'm intrigued. Looks kind of fun! I have some parts around so it won't be too big of a $ hit for me I assume all of you are using a drill press with a sliding vise to "mill"? How tight of a drill press do you need? I have a an older Harbor Freight unit that's Ok but not "Bridgeport" Ok! Could it be done with a file if one were really patient? Search for Polymer80 in GD. I posted a pictorial walkthrough that only uses a drill, a sander, a saw, and some files. It's actually (IMO) EASIER to build these things w/o a drill press or mill. Might take longer, but it was significantly easier for me to do it with the saw than the press. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 7:27:56 AM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have a link? Can't find it! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok I'm intrigued. Looks kind of fun! I have some parts around so it won't be too big of a $ hit for me I assume all of you are using a drill press with a sliding vise to "mill"? How tight of a drill press do you need? I have a an older Harbor Freight unit that's Ok but not "Bridgeport" Ok! Could it be done with a file if one were really patient? Search for Polymer80 in GD. I posted a pictorial walkthrough that only uses a drill, a sander, a saw, and some files. It's actually (IMO) EASIER to build these things w/o a drill press or mill. Might take longer, but it was significantly easier for me to do it with the saw than the press. Spectre tutorial |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 7:57:14 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just in case I was misunderstood, gnguy1 sells the complete upper with recoil spring assembly and sights for $328. Sorry. Didn't want people thinking he sold incomplete stuff. Great deal. I think all his uppers cost that much too. I'm looking at building a 24 with a 23 length grip next. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The worst part of these kits is trying to find a realistically priced GLOCK upper for it. Most people want $400+ for a used one. Gnguy1 on gunbroker. $328 for slides if you buy them with mags. LWD currently has slides for $175, barrels for $100, and completion kits for $100. $375 + shipping if you don't want any serial numbers on your Spectre. Don't forget sights, recoil spring assembly... Either way, I ended up getting a LWD G35 slide with 9mm threaded conversion barrel for mine. Should look... interesting. While I'd love to build it now, I plan on putting all the components away to build it with one of my sons or daughters when they are a bit older and interested.
Just in case I was misunderstood, gnguy1 sells the complete upper with recoil spring assembly and sights for $328. Sorry. Didn't want people thinking he sold incomplete stuff. Great deal. I think all his uppers cost that much too. I'm looking at building a 24 with a 23 length grip next. Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 8:09:57 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 10:38:14 AM EST
[#17]
Has anyone had to modify the locking block assembly? It seems like a lot the not going into battery and cycling problems I've seen on youtube are resolved with fitting the slide better and cycling the action manually or through test firing.
I remember seeing a video of the CZ factory and how they have machines that mechanically cycle the slides of all the new pistols to break them in prior to shipping. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 11:30:38 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. Well that sucks.... or maybe not. Who knows. But I do know current/old ones were made in south korea... as per their site: Dasan Machineries Co. LTD Dasan is headquartered in South Korea and has recently opened a manufacturing facility in Duluth Georgia. Dasan has been manufacturing barrels for some of largest brands in the world for more than 20 years and is well known for producing a high quality yet still value priced product. EDIT::: Headquartered in South Korea.... Made in Georgia... Maybe. They dont specify which parts are made where. They make car and plane parts too. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 12:06:52 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone had to modify the locking block assembly? It seems like a lot the not going into battery and cycling problems I've seen on youtube are resolved with fitting the slide better and cycling the action manually or through test firing. I remember seeing a video of the CZ factory and how they have machines that mechanically cycle the slides of all the new pistols to break them in prior to shipping. I'm fighting a failure to return to battery in one of mine. I'm also fighting it in my G20, so I'm not entirely convinced this isn't a Glock problem. So far I've filed the top of the safety tab on the trigger bar, and thinned or the rear rails. My trigger block sits tight, that's the issue. |
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Posted: 9/24/2016 8:25:40 PM EST
[#20]
I have finally orderer my remaining parts, all lone wolf parts except for the mag, thats factory glock. Galati International had the last g24 slide i could find and they were out of stock for 5 months after i ordered it so good luck to anyone wanting a long slide.... cant wait to get it all together. Hopefully i wont have that battery issue.... for some reason i dont believe my jig and bit worked for rear rails. They removed less than 1/16 of an inch from the sides for the slot...
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Posted: 9/24/2016 9:14:15 PM EST
[#21]
All my cycling problems were solved with racking the slide and letting it slam shut a good couple of hundred times. When I started the back rails were so tight It was a struggle to even move the slide back. I started with my harbor freight files and got it to where you could slide it all the way back and had to push it forward then just kept sliding it back and fourth every 20 or so slides I noticed it getting better and the effort to rack it was less and less.
I never touched the metal parts with anything other than some lube. |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 12:10:04 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. When did you hear that? I was told Oct/Nov, but that was several weeks ago. |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 4:52:39 AM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When did you hear that? I was told Oct/Nov, but that was several weeks ago. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. When did you hear that? I was told Oct/Nov, but that was several weeks ago. They just told me this thursday that they no longer will have lonewolf slides that they were discontinued or something. They said they will have the new line of alpha wolf slides available for purchase in the next few months once their retooling is done and they have the bugs worked out so who knows.... Galati told me to look for them to start stocking them after january or spring |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 6:15:15 AM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When did you hear that? I was told Oct/Nov, but that was several weeks ago. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good luck on the g24 slide.... LoneWolf had one left last night. Went to buy it this morning for my build and they are out, no backorder. Cant find one anywhere which really peeves me because I ordered the LoneWolf g24 barrel already which arrives today. It was all I could afford at the time and even those were limited quantity. Nobody is making g17L or g24 slides it seems. Searched everywhere online. Lone Wolf is switching suppliers for their slides. They expect to have new inventory in stock end of this year or early next year. When did you hear that? I was told Oct/Nov, but that was several weeks ago. Week or two ago. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 9:41:56 PM EST
[#25]
This seems to be the most complete thread of the PF940 frame, so I'm going to try posting here. If there is a better location for Polymer 80% troubleshooting, I haven't found it.
I finished two lowers and both have reliability problems. I'm using complete slide assemblies from a factory G17 and G22. Both work very well on their original lowers. Both PF940 lowers have a complete LWD parts kit. However, I swapped out the mag releases in both for Glock OEM when I was having trouble getting the frames to eject mags smoothly and the G22 ejected on every round fired. The OEM release seems to have fixed those problems, though I'm sure I could have modified the LWD releases to get similar function. I will probably still do that eventually. The G17 hand cycles relatively smoothly but sticks all that way back. If I hand cycle with no mag it will hold back until I bump it forward. The stickiness is only at the very end of travel. I'm not sure what's causing it. The rear rails are already pretty thin from filing. I'm not sure I want to cut them down any more. More importantly, when I pull the trigger I get a click but no bang. I had one slam fire once after I hand cycled and the slide got stuck back and then I bumped it forward. I called P80 and they recommended shimming the trigger pack. I may call back for more specifics, but figured I'd ask here first for some advice from others who have successful builds. On the G22 I have a feeding problem. The trigger works but I can't get a found to feed. It holds the slide out of battery. If I hold it over horizontally (gangster-style) and cycle the slide by hand it will feed. But just that one round. It won't feed a second. Of course, trigger works in this frame and the slide cycles smoothly through its whole range of operation. The pins are very tight (I used the included standard-size drill bits). Is it possible something's binding and that's what's causing my problems? Any ideas? |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 10:03:40 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: On the G22 I have a feeding problem. The trigger works but I can't get a found to feed. It holds the slide out of battery. If I hold it over horizontally (gangster-style) and cycle the slide by hand it will feed. But just that one round. It won't feed a second. Of course, trigger works in this frame and the slide cycles smoothly through its whole range of operation.
The pins are very tight (I used the included standard-size drill bits). Is it possible something's binding and that's what's causing my problems? Any ideas? Clearly you should mill sight slots on the side of the slide and mount your sights vertically.
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Posted: 9/26/2016 11:08:48 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This seems to be the most complete thread of the PF940 frame, so I'm going to try posting here. If there is a better location for Polymer 80% troubleshooting, I haven't found it. I finished two lowers and both have reliability problems. I'm using complete slide assemblies from a factory G17 and G22. Both work very well on their original lowers. Both PF940 lowers have a complete LWD parts kit. However, I swapped out the mag releases in both for Glock OEM when I was having trouble getting the frames to eject mags smoothly and the G22 ejected on every round fired. The OEM release seems to have fixed those problems, though I'm sure I could have modified the LWD releases to get similar function. I will probably still do that eventually. The G17 hand cycles relatively smoothly but sticks all that way back. If I hand cycle with no mag it will hold back until I bump it forward. The stickiness is only at the very end of travel. I'm not sure what's causing it. The rear rails are already pretty thin from filing. I'm not sure I want to cut them down any more. More importantly, when I pull the trigger I get a click but no bang. I had one slam fire once after I hand cycled and the slide got stuck back and then I bumped it forward. I called P80 and they recommended shimming the trigger pack. I may call back for more specifics, but figured I'd ask here first for some advice from others who have successful builds. On the G22 I have a feeding problem. The trigger works but I can't get a found to feed. It holds the slide out of battery. If I hold it over horizontally (gangster-style) and cycle the slide by hand it will feed. But just that one round. It won't feed a second. Of course, trigger works in this frame and the slide cycles smoothly through its whole range of operation. The pins are very tight (I used the included standard-size drill bits). Is it possible something's binding and that's what's causing my problems? Any ideas? You only need to shim the trigger block if the trigger block has play in it. I had problems with failure to return to battery as you're describing. I think it's gone now, after hand cycling the slide a few hundred times. Sit down and watch tv and rack it for an hour. That should fix that issue. Can't figure out why the gun would only feed sideways, but that sounds like a FTRTB as well. Rack that one a bunch too. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 11:42:40 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This seems to be the most complete thread of the PF940 frame, so I'm going to try posting here. If there is a better location for Polymer 80% troubleshooting, I haven't found it. I finished two lowers and both have reliability problems. I'm using complete slide assemblies from a factory G17 and G22. Both work very well on their original lowers. Both PF940 lowers have a complete LWD parts kit. However, I swapped out the mag releases in both for Glock OEM when I was having trouble getting the frames to eject mags smoothly and the G22 ejected on every round fired. The OEM release seems to have fixed those problems, though I'm sure I could have modified the LWD releases to get similar function. I will probably still do that eventually. The G17 hand cycles relatively smoothly but sticks all that way back. If I hand cycle with no mag it will hold back until I bump it forward. The stickiness is only at the very end of travel. I'm not sure what's causing it. The rear rails are already pretty thin from filing. I'm not sure I want to cut them down any more. More importantly, when I pull the trigger I get a click but no bang. I had one slam fire once after I hand cycled and the slide got stuck back and then I bumped it forward. I called P80 and they recommended shimming the trigger pack. I may call back for more specifics, but figured I'd ask here first for some advice from others who have successful builds. On the G22 I have a feeding problem. The trigger works but I can't get a found to feed. It holds the slide out of battery. If I hold it over horizontally (gangster-style) and cycle the slide by hand it will feed. But just that one round. It won't feed a second. Of course, trigger works in this frame and the slide cycles smoothly through its whole range of operation. The pins are very tight (I used the included standard-size drill bits). Is it possible something's binding and that's what's causing my problems? Any ideas? No personal build finished, yet. But there is a video on YouTube of a tabletop where a guy used a cut up credit card and just dropped a piece behind the trigger pack, fixed his problems. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 8:59:05 AM EST
[#29]
Is anyone else's frame warped? Mine has the front of the rail warped down. It looks like crap after cleaning it up.
I contacted Polymer 80 to see what they can do for me. This frame also has the chipped portion behind the mag well. Very disappointed as I bought the frame on pre order. The current cost is too much for me to swallow after getting a bad frame. We'll see what they say. I wish that I would have only used the jig for the holes now...stupid for trusting it. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 9:56:32 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is anyone else's frame warped? Mine has the front of the rail warped down. It looks like crap after cleaning it up. I contacted Polymer 80 to see what they can do for me. This frame also has the chipped portion behind the mag well. Very disappointed as I bought the frame on pre order. The current cost is too much for me to swallow after getting a bad frame. We'll see what they say. I wish that I would have only used the jig for the holes now...stupid for trusting it. I don't understand this part. You drilled the holes free hand? |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 10:50:22 AM EST
[#31]
My Jig was warped. Would not lay flat unless locked into a vice. So I used drill press for just the recoil/op rod channel. Rest I did in a vise with hand drill for the wholes and a belt sander for the front milling. My end mill bit for rear rails barely touched them. Just scratched enough to see the mark is all. I took it out of jig and carefully milled by had to the same inside depth as the locking block rails with a caliper. I got the newer model too in flat dark earth.... definately some quality control issues I think in the new setups. My frame was also warped inward. The locking block helped "push" the sides back straight when I forced it in. Still no test fire. I have it all assembled except for my g24 longslide from lone wolf. Should be here today or tomorrow I hope so I can get some pew pew time in.
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Posted: 9/29/2016 11:15:18 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't understand this part. You drilled the holes free hand? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Is anyone else's frame warped? Mine has the front of the rail warped down. It looks like crap after cleaning it up. I contacted Polymer 80 to see what they can do for me. This frame also has the chipped portion behind the mag well. Very disappointed as I bought the frame on pre order. The current cost is too much for me to swallow after getting a bad frame. We'll see what they say. I wish that I would have only used the jig for the holes now...stupid for trusting it. I don't understand this part. You drilled the holes free hand? No I used the jig. I WISHED that was the only operation I used it for. |
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Posted: 10/1/2016 5:16:07 PM EST
[#33]
I tried mine out again today, putting around 200 rounds through it. I have got it working pretty well, but I am having some ejection problems. To say the ejection is "erratic" would be an understatement - I have shells landing anywhere within a 10 foot radius all around me. Ejecting to the front, back, left, right, brass to face - just about everywhere. Also had about 10 failures to eject as well, where the empty gets trapped in the ejection port. If I can get the ejection problem figured out I will be reasonably pleased with the Polymer80 frame. I had been contemplating picking up another one, but now I am not sure. It was a fun project but I think right now there are still some issues with the frame design that needs to be straightened out, notably the loose trigger housing pocket. It's close, but I think not quite ready for prime time. I know there is a lot of R&D involved in something like this and the molds are ridiculously expensive, and that is why it is a little disappointing for Polymer80 to be so close to having something really good here, but I think they missed it by just this much. I made a little video of me putting a few magazines though the pistol to show the ejection "pattern". You can clearly see shells flying everywhere!  |
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Posted: 10/2/2016 10:05:10 AM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I made a little video of me putting a few magazines though the pistol to show the ejection "pattern". You can clearly see shells flying everywhere!  https://youtu.be/iWimuNee4wQ |
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Posted: 10/2/2016 10:47:42 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks like an aftermarket slide too? If so I'd suspect that before the frame as the cause of ejection issues. Do you have a factory frame you can drop that slide on? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I made a little video of me putting a few magazines though the pistol to show the ejection "pattern". You can clearly see shells flying everywhere! https://youtu.be/iWimuNee4wQLooks like an aftermarket slide too? If so I'd suspect that before the frame as the cause of ejection issues. Do you have a factory frame you can drop that slide on? It is an aftermarket slide, and I have tried it on another frame, and although the ejection was not perfect it was a lot better than what I am getting here. I'll try some different things. I am using a Glock factory recoil spring so maybe I will try a lighter and/or heavier aftermarket spring, maybe try a different extractor. Not sure how much time and effort I want to put into this anyway - it is just a range toy so as long as it works reasonably well I guess I will be content with that. |
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Posted: 10/2/2016 8:58:21 PM EST
[#36]
Has anyone had return to battery issues? I have a solid top g24 lonewolf slode, 40 s&w lonewolf barrel, trigger and stainless oprod with 17# spring... seem to consistantly stop 1/8th of an inch before full lockup. If you shake the gun it "pops" right in. This has its moments. Been trying different ammo. The problem is consistant no matter which ammo but if i soak the gun excessively in oil it seems to cylce fine for about 3 mags, in which i have to soak it again in oil. None of this seems right.
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Posted: 10/2/2016 10:02:09 PM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Has anyone had return to battery issues? I have a solid top g24 lonewolf slode, 40 s&w lonewolf barrel, trigger and stainless oprod with 17# spring... seem to consistantly stop 1/8th of an inch before full lockup. If you shake the gun it "pops" right in. This has its moments. Been trying different ammo. The problem is consistant no matter which ammo but if i soak the gun excessively in oil it seems to cylce fine for about 3 mags, in which i have to soak it again in oil. None of this seems right. |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 6:54:22 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You seem to be getting some drag somewhere. It could be that you might need to take a little bit more material off the rear rails. Mine was dragging from the "bump" on the trigger bar contacting the bottom of the slide. Once I filed that down a little I have had no issues with going into battery. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone had return to battery issues? I have a solid top g24 lonewolf slode, 40 s&w lonewolf barrel, trigger and stainless oprod with 17# spring... seem to consistantly stop 1/8th of an inch before full lockup. If you shake the gun it "pops" right in. This has its moments. Been trying different ammo. The problem is consistant no matter which ammo but if i soak the gun excessively in oil it seems to cylce fine for about 3 mags, in which i have to soak it again in oil. None of this seems right. I will have to try that when I get home. I thought maybe the extra weight of the longslide was causing hangup. Also, I have noticed, Perfecta walmart ammo, will never feed right. feeds in everyones guns I know, except for glock. I'll try filing feed ramps more. With that ammo at $10 a box per 50 its hard to beat. I also have to replace my firing pin channel liner already. Sticking about half way every time you pull trigger. a very rough pull, not smooth at all so I attribute that to the sleeve.... mind you everything is lonewolf... |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 9:49:27 AM EST
[#39]
Oh and everybody loves photos so here they are finally
 </a>" /> </a>" />
I'm debating on a conversion barrel... 9mm or 357 sig... might just do the 9 for lighter shooting. Even with the long slide it still has that 40 snap to it. I love it though. I am a larger guy and this fits perfectly in my jean pocket with just the handle protruding slightly for a nice woods gun with a smooth draw. |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 3:11:14 PM EST
[#40]
Guys with failure to battery issues; loosen up your rear slide rails a bit also look into barrel to locking block interface, file the locking block as well so the gun can go into battery with only pulling the slide back 2mm.
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Posted: 10/3/2016 5:02:01 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oh and everybody loves photos so here they are finally http://<a href=http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/freebid5049/G24%202_zpsdg0olgpq.jpg</a>" />http://<a href=http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/freebid5049/g24%203_zpspbj8m5y0.jpg</a>" /> I'm debating on a conversion barrel... 9mm or 357 sig... might just do the 9 for lighter shooting. Even with the long slide it still has that 40 snap to it. I love it though. I am a larger guy and this fits perfectly in my jean pocket with just the handle protruding slightly for a nice woods gun with a smooth draw. I'd take a small file and/or sandpaper to those rear rails until they are nice and smooth and roughly the same thickness as the front rails. I wouldn't be surprised if that fixes your issues. |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 7:05:57 PM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
By your bottom photo it does look like your rear rails could use a bit of touching up - they appear to be thicker than they need to be and a bit rough as well. I'd take a small file and/or sandpaper to those rear rails until they are nice and smooth and roughly the same thickness as the front rails. I wouldn't be surprised if that fixes your issues. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Oh and everybody loves photos so here they are finally http://<a href=http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/freebid5049/G24%202_zpsdg0olgpq.jpg</a>" />http://<a href=http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/freebid5049/g24%203_zpspbj8m5y0.jpg</a>" /> I'm debating on a conversion barrel... 9mm or 357 sig... might just do the 9 for lighter shooting. Even with the long slide it still has that 40 snap to it. I love it though. I am a larger guy and this fits perfectly in my jean pocket with just the handle protruding slightly for a nice woods gun with a smooth draw. I'd take a small file and/or sandpaper to those rear rails until they are nice and smooth and roughly the same thickness as the front rails. I wouldn't be surprised if that fixes your issues. Yes, the photos are out of sequence. I did not have my slide yet when i took that photo. I left it rough because my end mill bit provied was not long enough so i free handed it. Then i waited until i got my slide and forced it onto the rear rails, it actually cut a decent bit of rail off because of the sharp new slide finish. Then i hand filed everything out smooth. I may buy another kit and do again. This was my first 80 of anything and a learning experience as well as ive never milled anything before, im a welder lol |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 9:36:29 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This was my first 80 of anything and a learning experience as well as ive never milled anything before, im a welder lol  $36 per lower shipped.
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Posted: 10/4/2016 6:45:01 AM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: This was my first 80 of anything and a learning experience as well as ive never milled anything before, im a welder lol $36 per lower shipped.Oh my.... I already have an AR.... but there are a lot of other interesting projects on that site as well... 
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Posted: 10/4/2016 11:35:57 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh my.... I already have an AR.... but there are a lot of other interesting projects on that site as well... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: This was my first 80 of anything and a learning experience as well as ive never milled anything before, im a welder lol $36 per lower shipped.Oh my.... I already have an AR.... but there are a lot of other interesting projects on that site as well... I'm sorry, I completely lost the track. You like Glocks, AND you're a welder. Das Eiserne Glock |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 1:05:54 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm sorry, I completely lost the track. You like Glocks, AND you're a welder. Das Eiserne Glock Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: This was my first 80 of anything and a learning experience as well as ive never milled anything before, im a welder lol $36 per lower shipped.Oh my.... I already have an AR.... but there are a lot of other interesting projects on that site as well... I'm sorry, I completely lost the track. You like Glocks, AND you're a welder. Das Eiserne Glock wow.... lol I love the concept... considerably more work than the polymer 80..... I have contemplated dremeling out the rear rails in their entirety however to rig some sort of steel rails in there and that kit for the iron glock may hold the answer to it... I like metal much more than plastic. If you screw up, add more metal and re-machine it. |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 10:01:03 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wow.... lol I love the concept... considerably more work than the polymer 80..... I have contemplated dremeling out the rear rails in their entirety however to rig some sort of steel rails in there and that kit for the iron glock may hold the answer to it... I like metal much more than plastic. If you screw up, add more metal and re-machine it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I'm sorry, I completely lost the track. You like Glocks, AND you're a welder.
Das Eiserne Glock wow.... lol I love the concept... considerably more work than the polymer 80..... I have contemplated dremeling out the rear rails in their entirety however to rig some sort of steel rails in there and that kit for the iron glock may hold the answer to it... I like metal much more than plastic. If you screw up, add more metal and re-machine it. Unfortunately, Boris no longer makes the kits - he's moved on to casting AR lowers out of plastic: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/676733_Fruity_Ghost___DIY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_.html However, he still sells the jig, you just have to do all the cutting, bending, drilling, and welding yourself: http://www.a-r-m-u-s.com/kits.html The dimensions for the 3 metal parts should be in the Das Eiserne Glock thread. |
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Posted: 10/5/2016 1:49:04 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I will have to try that when I get home. I thought maybe the extra weight of the longslide was causing hangup. Also, I have noticed, Perfecta walmart ammo, will never feed right. feeds in everyones guns I know, except for glock. I'll try filing feed ramps more. With that ammo at $10 a box per 50 its hard to beat. I also have to replace my firing pin channel liner already. Sticking about half way every time you pull trigger. a very rough pull, not smooth at all so I attribute that to the sleeve.... mind you everything is lonewolf... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone had return to battery issues? I have a solid top g24 lonewolf slode, 40 s&w lonewolf barrel, trigger and stainless oprod with 17# spring... seem to consistantly stop 1/8th of an inch before full lockup. If you shake the gun it "pops" right in. This has its moments. Been trying different ammo. The problem is consistant no matter which ammo but if i soak the gun excessively in oil it seems to cylce fine for about 3 mags, in which i have to soak it again in oil. None of this seems right. I will have to try that when I get home. I thought maybe the extra weight of the longslide was causing hangup. Also, I have noticed, Perfecta walmart ammo, will never feed right. feeds in everyones guns I know, except for glock. I'll try filing feed ramps more. With that ammo at $10 a box per 50 its hard to beat. I also have to replace my firing pin channel liner already. Sticking about half way every time you pull trigger. a very rough pull, not smooth at all so I attribute that to the sleeve.... mind you everything is lonewolf... Built mine a while back and had the same returned to battery issues. I did a couple of things to make it go away. 1. The hump on the trigger bar for the safety plunger was hanging up a bit. I very lightly took that down until it didn't cause an issue. You couldn't get the slide to go all the way forward while the trigger was squeezed in. 2. I replaced the stainless LW recoil assembly with an old factory glock recoil assembly. That definitely helped. Mine will not run right (go into battery) with the LW stainless recoil assembly. If you have a gen 3 G17 recoil spring around, try this first. Or borrow one/buy one. It took a lot of work but I eventually got mine running 100%. For some reason I had issues with some of the LW parts. I would recommend using factory glock parts when possible. After getting the return to battery issue straightened out, I had a bunch of light primer strikes. Eventually replaced more LW parts with Glock parts and got it going. Main culprit appeared to be the LW firing pin for the light strikes. |
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Posted: 10/6/2016 11:27:40 AM EST
[#49]
Thanks to the OP and others for pushing me over the top. Had no intentions of buying any 9mm other than my 43. 119 bucks at Brownell's this morning.. No way I could not swallow that hook. The only thing I know at this point about the slide and barrel is they will be long. As to caliber, we shall see.
Craig |
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Posted: 10/7/2016 2:10:09 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks to the OP and others for pushing me over the top. Had no intentions of buying any 9mm other than my 43. 119 bucks at Brownell's this morning.. No way I could not swallow that hook. The only thing I know at this point about the slide and barrel is they will be long. As to caliber, we shall see. Craig Go long. you will not be dissapointed. I did mine in .40 and my 6"357 sig barrel should be in my mailbox when I get home. With the lonewolf solid top stainless longslide it makes a 40 feel like a 9mm... very manageable. I cant imagine how petty a 9mm would feel. I agree with the other guy as well... seems to be lonewolf as the culprit of my issues... my goal was 100% non glock but now I am ordering a factory glock firing pin channel liner as well cause my lonewolf one is causing a "sticky trigger" feel |
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