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Posted: 11/27/2016 3:46:44 PM EST
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ran into the same problem with the striker not releasing when the trigger is pulled. Comparing the trigger assembly on the Polymer 80 frame to a Glock frame, on mine it appeared as though the problem was that the trigger bar would not go back far enough to allow for the cruciform to drop out of the way. I fixed this by removing a bit of the frame material where the trigger bar bows at a right angle in the back. You can see where it is hitting the frame there when you pull the trigger. Removing a little bit of frame material there with a small sanding drum on a Dremmel solved the problem. The trigger bar will now go back far enough to drop the cruciform far enough out of the way and release the striker. Not my video, but the guy in this video had the same problem and shows the area I'm talking about and it fixed his problem, too. Might be worth a try to see if this clears up your issue as well. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try! |
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Posted: 11/27/2016 9:53:27 PM EST
[#2]
I'll throw my hat in the ring for having completed a Spectre. Overall, I was very impressed with it. I like the feel of the grip. It finished easily with a Dremel, files and sandpaper. I finished mine off with mostly Lonewolf parts. There are probably only five stock-Glock parts in the whole thing. Before this, I'd never had any experience with Glock. I really like the simplicity of how it all works. When it works, it's also very accurate too. Despite the initial teething problems, it's nice and accurate. I'm looking forward to trying the P80 G19 model when it comes out.
Now on to my problems with the kit. Like everyone else, my drill bits were too small for the pins. I got around that with a little brute force. Also, since I pieced it together before Lonewolf or anyone else made a complete parts kit, my results are less than satisfactory (to put it mildly). Self-ejecting mags and FTEs forced me to call the first testing session short. It probably didn't help that I was running a solid-top G24 slide with a 9mm conversion barrel and 115 grain ammo. Just not enough umph to motivate that heavy slide into cycling properly. I took the mag release out and cleaned up all the flashing and mold lines around the hole. It works much better now and doesn't self-eject. I think I'm close to solving the cycling issue. I bought a reduced power recoil spring last week and tested it out. Still had the FTE but it was much closer to a full cycle. I've got a feeling if I step up to 124 grain or higher ammo and break in the spring, I'll be able to reliably feed it the lower-power stuff. Overall, I realize it's an 80% and will need some tweaking to get it dialed in. It's not an off-the-shelf gun that's ready to go. I'll need to work on it to make it exactly what I'm interested in. Mostly, I was interested in something I can learn from and apply those lessons to bigger and better things. I really enjoyed putting it together and look forward to using it when it's running reliably. |
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Posted: 11/28/2016 1:09:51 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now on to my problems with the kit. Like everyone else, my drill bits were too small for the pins. I got around that with a little brute force. Also, since I pieced it together before Lonewolf or anyone else made a complete parts kit, my results are less than satisfactory (to put it mildly). Self-ejecting mags and FTEs forced me to call the first testing session short. It probably didn't help that I was running a solid-top G24 slide with a 9mm conversion barrel and 115 grain ammo. Just not enough umph to motivate that heavy slide into cycling properly. I took the mag release out and cleaned up all the flashing and mold lines around the hole. It works much better now and doesn't self-eject. I think I'm close to solving the cycling issue. I bought a reduced power recoil spring last week and tested it out. Still had the FTE but it was much closer to a full cycle. I've got a feeling if I step up to 124 grain or higher ammo and break in the spring, I'll be able to reliably feed it the lower-power stuff. . I did the exact same build. glock 24 solid top longslide and all and the exact same problems. I also had a gritty trigger pull. I replaced lonewolf firing pin channel liner with a glock one, got rid of my 17 pound captured stainless LW spring for a wolff springs 13 pound, uncaptured spring. (no stop to hold spring together, must carefully slid into barrel assembly) mind you mine is a 40, not the 9mm and mine is just starting to cycle fine with a 13lb spring and 180 gr bullets. A little snappier but near flawless function... with a 9mm you may want to try slide lightening or an 11 pounder... |
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Posted: 11/30/2016 10:03:34 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... with a 9mm you may want to try slide lightening or an 11 pounder... You may be right. I was hoping to avoid those but it may come down to that. We'll see after the next range session. As a mechanic, I hate just throwing money at a problem until it's fixed. |
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Posted: 12/4/2016 3:15:53 PM EST
[#5]
 Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 12/4/2016 8:05:37 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZBQIW0Pju8 New Arfcom has a unique way of messing up every link. |
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Posted: 12/4/2016 8:59:09 PM EST
[#7]
A couple of things I've done as I chased a fix for the FTRTB issue.
I've built two of these so far and have yet to find one where the trigger assembly had vertical movement. I almost wish I'd seen this, cuz it seems to be an easy fix. Replace the recoil spring assembly. Check the locking block screws to make sure they're not dragging on the recoil spring assembly. Thin out the rear rails so they're not nearly as tight. That's the easy stuff. Despite that, my gun still failed the spring test - hold gun vertical with the trigger held back and release the slide at the last half inch. It failed to return to battery. So after looking around online, I found what seemed to be a rather radical solution. Pull the slide back until the barrel drops down, and hold everything in place by pressing down on the barrel hood. The slide will overhang the rear of the frame a bit. Now, smack the slide forward into battery against the resistance of your grip with the heel of your other hand or the butt of a knife or screwdriver. I did this probably 150-250 times. Now my gun passes the spring test. I can't speak to whether this is a good idea or a bad idea, but it did cure all FTRTB issues. |
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Posted: 12/4/2016 9:21:08 PM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A couple of things I've done as I chased a fix for the FTRTB issue. I've built two of these so far and have yet to find one where the trigger assembly had vertical movement. I almost wish I'd seen this, cuz it seems to be an easy fix. Replace the recoil spring assembly. Check the locking block screws to make sure they're not dragging on the recoil spring assembly. Thin out the rear rails so they're not nearly as tight. That's the easy stuff. Despite that, my gun still failed the spring test - hold gun vertical with the trigger held back and release the slide at the last half inch. It failed to return to battery. So after looking around online, I found what seemed to be a rather radical solution. Pull the slide back until the barrel drops down, and hold everything in place by pressing down on the barrel hood. The slide will overhang the rear of the frame a bit. Now, smack the slide forward into battery against the resistance of your grip with the heel of your other hand or the butt of a knife or screwdriver. I did this probably 150-250 times. Now my gun passes the spring test. I can't speak to whether this is a good idea or a bad idea, but it did cure all FTRTB issues. i have also noticed the locking block screws protruding into the channel, might have to find shorter ones |
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Posted: 12/4/2016 11:47:15 PM EST
[#9]
Mind if I join the party? I bought two of the kits from Delta Team Tactical on Thanksgiving for $100 each, free shipping. Hopefully they show up this week. Being in the Socialist republic of FUACNY, I have to add it to my CCW permit. Need to find out if they need a serial number on it, or what. Will have to mozey down to the county clerk's office to ask.
I'll probably go the dremel/file/sandpaper route to do at least one of mine. Unless my buddy doesn't mind me barging into his machine shop. 
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Posted: 12/5/2016 7:23:52 PM EST
[#10]
Are you guys seeing the slide cover plate overhanging the back of the rear slide rails? I've got ~0.600" overhang.
I'm going to try beating the slide forward....I just can't get the FTRTB fixed. I'm on my second trigger bar. I think the frame just is not engineered to accept the 34 slide. Maybe add a lighter recoil spring too? |
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Posted: 12/6/2016 12:28:16 AM EST
[#11]
Yes, mine has the slide cover plate extending a little past the rear end of the rails when in battery and it's been pretty good with cycling and returning to battery
If your slide isn't returning to battery on its own after pressing 1/4" back and releasing then the rear rails probably need some work so the slide can travel more freely on the rear of the frame. |
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Posted: 12/6/2016 2:11:19 PM EST
[#12]
Brownells sent out an email today and the poly80 kit in black is on sale for $99.
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Posted: 12/7/2016 2:47:22 AM EST
[#13]
Ran about 170 more rounds through my build for a total of over 200 down the pipe now. No feeding or cycling issues to report.
The ammo was mostly (~160 rds) 125 gr cast lead 9mm so the pistol got pretty dirty. |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 10:11:08 AM EST
[#14]
What's everyone using for a slide lock lever? I have a weird feeling its involved in the FTRTB issues.
These issues usually manifest first (for me) as an inability to pull the slide on without pushing it down. Once I hammer the back of the slide forward with the barrel hood pressed down (described a few posts above) the SLL gets all scratched up and then I can pull the slide on like a normal Glock. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 10:14:22 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's everyone using for a slide lock lever? I have a weird feeling its involved in the FTRTB issues. These issues usually manifest first (for me) as an inability to pull the slide on without pushing it down. Once I hammer the back of the slide forward with the barrel hood pressed down (described a few posts above) the SLL gets all scratched up and then I can pull the slide on like a normal Glock. Thoughts? I'm using a factory glock slide lock lever, did you have any issues getting the spring to sit low enough in the channel to allow the lever so slide into place easy or did you have to force it? mine was tough, but it went and i dont notice any hangup when pulling the slide on |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 11:44:08 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm using a factory glock slide lock lever, did you have any issues getting the spring to sit low enough in the channel to allow the lever so slide into place easy or did you have to force it? mine was tough, but it went and i dont notice any hangup when pulling the slide on No issues getting it to sit low. Slid into place easily enough. To my not-a-gunsmith eye, there's a significant hitch around the SLL, right around the barrel lug/locking block/SLL area. One of the ones I built, and one a friend built both are using LWD extended SLLs, so I'm thinking that might have some bearing on the issue. However, my factory G20 has the same issue and all parts are stock, so that kinda dismantles that theory. |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 1:15:46 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No issues getting it to sit low. Slid into place easily enough. To my not-a-gunsmith eye, there's a significant hitch around the SLL, right around the barrel lug/locking block/SLL area. One of the ones I built, and one a friend built both are using LWD extended SLLs, so I'm thinking that might have some bearing on the issue. However, my factory G20 has the same issue and all parts are stock, so that kinda dismantles that theory. I used factory SLL. Was tight getting in but doesn't seem to be an issue. I still think there is a mild geometry issue with the locking block, I've shot about 150rds through mine, never any failures. I've probably racked/dry fired about 3k cycles. Every few hundred I can get the slide to hang up with the barrel tilted about 30degrees, almost returns to battery and takes the lightest tough to finish. Still feels like the hangup is with the barrel lug/ locking block interface. I'm using s3f barrel and Hyve technologies slide. Figure I'll mention mine is an OD colored frame, seems worth the mention if we can possibly narrow down issues to possibly certain colors/runs, etc.... |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 1:28:10 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used factory SLL. Was tight getting in but doesn't seem to be an issue. I still think there is a mild geometry issue with the locking block, I've shot about 150rds through mine, never any failures. I've probably racked/dry fired about 3k cycles. Every few hundred I can get the slide to hang up with the barrel tilted about 30degrees, almost returns to battery and takes the lightest tough to finish. Still feels like the hangup is with the barrel lug/ locking block interface. I'm using s3f barrel and Hyve technologies slide. Figure I'll mention mine is an OD colored frame, seems worth the mention if we can possibly narrow down issues to possibly certain colors/runs, etc.... All the Spectres I've dealt with are black. I think this cuts across all product lines. Might be worth trying the pound-the-slide-closed trick that I mentioned above. I need to confirm at the range, but I think I fixed one by slamming the slide shut a few hundred times and then jacking the slide a few hundred more. For the life of me I can't find the thread, but I read on a form somewhere that that is a fix for FTRTB, which seems to be a common occurrence among Glocks. Also, if you haven't ground down the safety tab, that's a good place to start. I've asked about FTRTB here and in General, and the consensus is always to replace the RSA, even when new or already replaced. Does anyone have any other fixes for it? I'm not entirely convinced this is solely a Spectre issue, I think it may be a Glock Perfection issue that's tolerance stacking in these frames. Don't get me wrong, I have great respect for Glocks, but I've yet to see one that runs perfectly out of the box. |
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Posted: 12/10/2016 6:00:09 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
All the Spectres I've dealt with are black. I think this cuts across all product lines. Might be worth trying the pound-the-slide-closed trick that I mentioned above. I need to confirm at the range, but I think I fixed one by slamming the slide shut a few hundred times and then jacking the slide a few hundred more. For the life of me I can't find the thread, but I read on a form somewhere that that is a fix for FTRTB, which seems to be a common occurrence among Glocks. Also, if you haven't ground down the safety tab, that's a good place to start. I've asked about FTRTB here and in General, and the consensus is always to replace the RSA, even when new or already replaced. Does anyone have any other fixes for it? I'm not entirely convinced this is solely a Spectre issue, I think it may be a Glock Perfection issue that's tolerance stacking in these frames. Don't get me wrong, I have great respect for Glocks, but I've yet to see one that runs perfectly out of the box. I'm just the opposite, the 6 Glocks I've owned have never had any issues, short of brass to the face after about 10k through a gen3 17, new RSA and fixed. Currently gen4 43,19,35 in the stable. Hell, I've only run the P80spectre with ETS mags. |
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Posted: 12/12/2016 1:48:58 PM EST
[#20]
I found after grinding my first trigger bar down too far to correct FTRTB issues that I needed to remove material from the frame where the trigger bar turns 90*. The first trigger bar either caused FTRTB or had too much material removed to engage the firing pin safety. Removing the extra material in the frame allowed the trigger bar to move farther to the rear and clear the firing pin safety. I'm using 100% Glock OEM parts with a factory 34 upper. I had to modify the second trigger bar but now it seems OK. Still have to take it out to the range. It has literally been hand cycled 1,000+ times.
The Polymer 80 people need to get their shit together before producing another frame. You shouldn't have to shim your FCG with a Starbucks card. Nor should you have to go out and buy 3mm and 4mm drill bits because the idiot who did the tooling purchase bought crap. Anyone notice that their 19 style frame is going to come with metric drills? And a non-centercutting end mill for plunge cutting? WTF?! I know they reused it from their AR kits but....seriously? Don't tell me your mold is fine when there is a broke piece in the frame and my frame is warped over 0.050"... oh and call your customers back. |
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Posted: 12/13/2016 8:54:25 AM EST
[#21]
I finished one up on Saturday and range tested it Sunday.
$99 white lower from Midway, $81 parts kit from LWD, beater g22 trade in (lower turned out to be pre '94 so I'll sell it in CT or MA) The issue I ran into was the striker not dropping when the trigger was pulled. I swapped to a different slide assembly and it was fine. As others did, I wound up having to relieve the frame in the area where the trigger bar turns 90° I ran through a 100rnd box of wwb .40 with no issues, and then had some fun with 9mm. Again, no issues. I'll be sending the slide out for machining & cerakote to complete the storm trooper look. 
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Posted: 12/13/2016 8:59:23 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I finished one up on Saturday and range tested it Sunday. $99 white lower from Midway, $81 parts kit from LWD, beater g22 trade in (lower turned out to be pre '94 so I'll sell it in CT or MA) The issue I ran into was the striker not dropping when the trigger was pulled. I swapped to a different slide assembly and it was fine. As others did, I wound up having to relieve the frame in the area where the trigger bar turns 90° I ran through a 100rnd box of wwb .40 with no issues, and then had some fun with 9mm. Again, no issues. I'll be sending the slide out for machining & cerakote to complete the storm trooper look. http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/Andrapos/Arfcom/StormGlockTrooper_zpskht9qlmp.jpg the white looks really good |
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Posted: 12/14/2016 5:43:44 AM EST
[#23]
Anyone know what needs to be done in Michigan? As we have to register handguns.
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Posted: 12/16/2016 11:26:30 AM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone know what needs to be done in Michigan? As we have to register handguns. I wouldn't even bother with one of these in Michigan. As others have pointed out, it's way more expensive than buying a factory Glock, so the only real reason to build one is to keep it off the books. Unless the thrill of making something yourself is worth the extra couple hundred bucks to you, in which case knock yourself out! |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 12:58:45 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't even bother with one of these in Michigan. As others have pointed out, it's way more expensive than buying a factory Glock, so the only real reason to build one is to keep it off the books. Unless the thrill of making something yourself is worth the extra couple hundred bucks to you, in which case knock yourself out! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anyone know what needs to be done in Michigan? As we have to register handguns. I wouldn't even bother with one of these in Michigan. As others have pointed out, it's way more expensive than buying a factory Glock, so the only real reason to build one is to keep it off the books. Unless the thrill of making something yourself is worth the extra couple hundred bucks to you, in which case knock yourself out! I'm in MA. I'll be doing this because fuck this state. |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 3:44:26 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't even bother with one of these in Michigan. As others have pointed out, it's way more expensive than buying a factory Glock, so the only real reason to build one is to keep it off the books. Unless the thrill of making something yourself is worth the extra couple hundred bucks to you, in which case knock yourself out! $99 Polymer80 lower - Midway sale price $81 parts kit - Lone Wolf $350 - Surplus G22/G17 complete -------- $ 530 (plus shipping & any transfer) -$150 sell the G22/G17 frame (keep slide, barrel, mag) -$100 frame is worth more if it's a pre-September 1994 frame (good for MA, CT) ------- $280-380 total (plus shipping & any transfer). |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 4:53:19 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
extra couple hundred bucks ROFLMAO False statement |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 7:40:43 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
$99 Polymer80 lower - Midway sale price $81 parts kit - Lone Wolf $350 - Surplus G22/G17 complete -------- $ 530 (plus shipping & any transfer) -$150 sell the G22/G17 frame (keep slide, barrel, mag) -$100 frame is worth more if it's a pre-September 1994 frame (good for MA, CT) ------- $280-380 total (plus shipping & any transfer). WTF where were those kits when I was shopping for parts?!? Also I've not had much luck finding used Glocks around here for a decent price. |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 8:47:13 PM EST
[#29]
So, I'm behind on these things.
What's the deal with the PF940C? Those look way less hack job tacky than the current PF940. I could totally see doing one of these for a project when I'm done with my CCF Raceframe. |
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Posted: 12/16/2016 10:41:04 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
WTF where were those kits when I was shopping for parts?!? Also I've not had much luck finding used Glocks around here for a decent price. https://www.recoilgunworks.com/police-tradeins-c-132.html |
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Posted: 12/17/2016 11:19:13 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryOh, see that wouldn't really work for my purposes. Anything I have to buy through an FFL means that gun still has my name attached to it. For me, the whole point of an 80% anything is to keep it 100% off big brother's radar. On the other hand, if it's really that easy to sell the old frame for a decent price, it would definitely be nice to be able to build a gun for that cheap. I stand corrected. |
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Posted: 12/17/2016 3:43:55 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, I'm behind on these things. What's the deal with the PF940C? Those look way less hack job tacky than the current PF940. I could totally see doing one of these for a project when I'm done with my CCF Raceframe. They are gonna make 2 versions of the compact, one a blank slate for you or someone else to do a texture/profile/stipple job to and one pre-textured. I do hope they've learned some lessons from the full size spectre. Also notice that they are including manufacturing data on the frame, maybe a way to legally serialize them coming, not sure.... I'm still really on the fence about building a compact. |
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Posted: 12/17/2016 4:54:22 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They are gonna make 2 versions of the compact, one a blank slate for you or someone else to do a texture/profile/stipple job to and one pre-textured. I do hope they've learned some lessons from the full size spectre. Also notice that they are including manufacturing data on the frame, maybe a way to legally serialize them coming, not sure.... I'm still really on the fence about building a compact. I hope they run better too from what I've read. Isn't some of the big issue cutting frame rails? If so, IIRC they're using a seperate metal frame rail insert that should correct that. Overall it looks like a better 80% solution than the 17/22 variant. |
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Posted: 12/17/2016 5:34:00 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
maybe a way to legally serialize them coming, not sure.... |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 12:32:10 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hope they run better too from what I've read. Isn't some of the big issue cutting frame rails? If so, IIRC they're using a seperate metal frame rail insert that should correct that. Overall it looks like a better 80% solution than the 17/22 variant. I will say that mine has never failed during live fire. I've only had it hang up when sitting around racking the slide and dry firing. I can force the out of battery failure by holding the trigger down and racking the slide, but not full travel rearward. From slide lock, it'll return to battery every time. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 5:28:58 PM EST
[#36]
The polymer 80 slides are now out by the way. I haven't seen them posted in here but I may have missed it. Expensive but nice looking.
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Posted: 12/20/2016 9:15:02 AM EST
[#37]
I'm basically done with the budget build of a "Storm Trooper" style gun aside from picking up a set of cheap fiber optic sights since the night sights are dead. I'm also debating on whether or not to send the slide out to be milled, and if I should add a funky muzzle device (do I really want to put another $275-350 into this thing and double my expenses?). It has definitely been a fun experience and I'll be building more.
This is the milling pattern, muzzle device, and sights that I'm thinking of: 
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Posted: 12/20/2016 10:05:58 AM EST
[#38]
Wow that turned out nicely.
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Posted: 12/20/2016 5:26:09 PM EST
[#39]
Good job. That turned out nice.
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Posted: 12/21/2016 10:52:54 AM EST
[#40]
Glock 19 frames on pre order Brownells
Also does anyone see that screw on the back of the grip, it seems to be holding in a optional magwell in some pictures, kinda looks uncomfortable |
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Posted: 12/21/2016 10:56:49 AM EST
[#41]
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Posted: 12/21/2016 10:59:52 AM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Glock 19 frames on pre order Brownells Also does anyone see that screw on the back of the grip, it seems to be holding in a optional magwell in some pictures, kinda looks uncomfortable Has anyone seen what the factory texture looks like on the 940C frames? I have only seen the smooth ones on instagram. |
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Posted: 12/23/2016 9:25:47 PM EST
[#43]
Has anyone fired any hot hand-loads or factory +p or +p+ ammo through their "Spectre" pistol?
Also, has anyone hosted a suppressor on it yet? And if so, how did it work? The reason I ask these questions is because it seems to me that, compared to a factory Glock 17 frame, the upper - when installed on a Spectre frame - does not travel quite as far backward during recoil, before beginning to unlock. It seems to me that this happens because in the Spectre frame the slide lock is located about 0.035" too far toward the rear, i.e., it is that much closer to the tip of the wedge on the locking block. So as I see it Spectre-framed pistols may be unlocking the action a little earlier than Glock-based pistols, and this concerns me a little bit. |
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Posted: 12/27/2016 3:12:57 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mind if I join the party? I bought two of the kits from Delta Team Tactical on Thanksgiving for $100 each, free shipping. Hopefully they show up this week. Being in the Socialist republic of FUACNY, I have to add it to my CCW permit. Need to find out if they need a serial number on it, or what. Will have to mozey down to the county clerk's office to ask. I'll probably go the dremel/file/sandpaper route to do at least one of mine. Unless my buddy doesn't mind me barging into his machine shop. If you live in NY like I then it is a no go..... I did do this, I live in chautauqua county. I work with the sheriffs a lot doing plumbing work at their offices and so I raised the question as a friend and was given the very polite, as a friend response. "Keep it on your property or in pieces." I was told NY has no law on these so it is a gray area however, pistols must have a serial number or they are considered unregistered. These have no serial and cannot ever be registered so the answer is no. Unless on your own property. Lonewolf dist do sell a timberwolf serialized frame however, for 225 it is completely built and ready to be put on a permit with a metal trigger even and better grip than factory glock.... as soon as my permit is approved I am getting one then just putting my slide on it and "gifting" my polymer 80 lower to a family member in PA where they are legal. |
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Posted: 12/27/2016 3:43:10 PM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone fired any hot hand-loads or factory +p or +p+ ammo through their "Spectre" pistol? Also, has anyone hosted a suppressor on it yet? And if so, how did it work? The reason I ask these questions is because it seems to me that, compared to a factory Glock 17 frame, the upper - when installed on a Spectre frame - does not travel quite as far backward during recoil, before beginning to unlock. It seems to me that this happens because in the Spectre frame the slide lock is located about 0.035" too far toward the rear, i.e., it is that much closer to the tip of the wedge on the locking block. So as I see it Spectre-framed pistols may be unlocking the action a little earlier than Glock-based pistols, and this concerns me a little bit. I ran around 75 rounds through my suppressed Spectre yesterday, using a G22 gen2 slide w/ 9mm conversion barrel & Osprey45 suppressor. All of the low-power UMC 115grn ball required hand cycling as did the 147grn Brass City subsonics, although the 147grn were stupid quiet. I'm going to try a lighter recoil spring and see if that allows it to fully cycle, as I have tried that combination on a G22 that cycled regular 115grn ball with no issues. |
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Posted: 12/27/2016 4:36:12 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you live in NY like I then it is a no go..... I did do this, I live in chautauqua county. I work with the sheriffs a lot doing plumbing work at their offices and so I raised the question as a friend and was given the very polite, as a friend response. "Keep it on your property or in pieces." I was told NY has no law on these so it is a gray area however, pistols must have a serial number or they are considered unregistered. These have no serial and cannot ever be registered so the answer is no. Unless on your own property. Lonewolf dist do sell a timberwolf serialized frame however, for 225 it is completely built and ready to be put on a permit with a metal trigger even and better grip than factory glock.... as soon as my permit is approved I am getting one then just putting my slide on it and "gifting" my polymer 80 lower to a family member in PA where they are legal. You can't engrave a serial number in the plastic? If you do give it to someone in PA, if you've already completed it, it'll need to go through a FFL. |
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Posted: 12/27/2016 7:02:16 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you live in NY like I then it is a no go..... I did do this, I live in chautauqua county. I work with the sheriffs a lot doing plumbing work at their offices and so I raised the question as a friend and was given the very polite, as a friend response. "Keep it on your property or in pieces." I was told NY has no law on these so it is a gray area however, pistols must have a serial number or they are considered unregistered. These have no serial and cannot ever be registered so the answer is no. Unless on your own property. Lonewolf dist do sell a timberwolf serialized frame however, for 225 it is completely built and ready to be put on a permit with a metal trigger even and better grip than factory glock.... as soon as my permit is approved I am getting one then just putting my slide on it and "gifting" my polymer 80 lower to a family member in PA where they are legal. If you live where you must have a SN I'd wait for the new G19 sized P80, which has a lot of improvements including a metal plate for a SN. Hopefully the spectre gets a Gen2 upgrade to these specs. |
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Posted: 12/27/2016 11:58:26 PM EST
[#48]
broke mine in with +p
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Posted: 12/28/2016 12:50:21 AM EST
[#49]
If there are any questions about durability I can report that it's durable enough to survive a 3 foot drop onto concrete. Had run another 100 rounds or so through it last week and was packing up but had forgotten to zip up the case it was in so it fell out onto the floor when I grabbed the case. There was no obvious damage to the frame.
Ran around 200 rounds (probably more) through it a couple days ago and the hard landing it made on concrete didn't seem to affect function. I wouldn't throw it down the driveway on purpose but if you drop yours onto a concrete floor it shouldn't be a problem. |
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Posted: 12/28/2016 10:46:59 PM EST
[#50]
Hmmm so it has no apparent problems with +p ammo, it works well with a suppressor, and it successfully passed an unintended "drop test". Well that's all good news.
Thanks for the replies. |
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