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Where exactly did you BUY this jewel of an LSL sill plate? View Quote this week: "can't find engineered lumber" next week: "can't find 16d common nails" LoFL. just kidding with ya! keep calling around building material places. especially engineered lumber places. call a builder, ask him/her where he sources it. it's not that esoteric these days. everyone's using it. ar-jedi |
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Found an LP product instead of Weyerhauser. Looks like they're going go be my source for engineered lumber down here. Nobody has it in stock, still, but at least they can get it. View Quote me likey! that stuff looks as bomb-proof as the Weyerhauser equivalent. ar-jedi |
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https://lpcorp.com/products/framing/lp-solidguard-lsl/ me likey! that stuff looks as bomb-proof as the Weyerhauser equivalent. ar-jedi View Quote But at the price I *think* they may quote me for a 12 or a 16' 2 X 6, they may like it more than I do. I want to do it, but the budget squeaks at this point because lumber prices down here have spiked because of the hurricane restoration. Picked a crappy season to build something, did I? Yes. Yes, I did. Anyway, while I wait for the call on how much the LP engineered sills will cost, (I actually probably only need three sides of that long part of the pad, which will help a lot) I'm staring at my grade. Now that concrete is poured and the whole OMG I'M COVERING MY PLUMBING WITH F****ING CONCRETE is dropping a notch or three to DEFCON 3 instead of DEFCON 1, I'm staring at my grade and going " *heavy sigh " I need a drain behind that slab." Kitties will now proceed to dig. AFC will be back to dig my ditch to my septic and clean up the neighbor's driveway ditch and bank, and he may well offer to dig for me, but I dunno if I want to haul 13 loads of gravel with my baby-ass trailer (looky there, I went from going, "OMG that trailer is WAY bigger than I'd planned" to now thinking it's a candy-ass trailer because now I need to haul more than three teaspoons of gravel. ) to fill his 18" wide ditch. Wide ditch equals effective drain, though. Hmmm.... The drama never ends. I should edit to add... Why is it so low? It's low because that's how I wanted it. I'm treading the line with how tall my "barn" is going to be in relation to the height of my house. Codes here state that your outbuilding may not be taller than your house. They also state that all outbuildings must not exceed the floor space of the home---yeah, I'm busting the hell out of that, and lying like a rug in the processs. Olde house. Two outbuildings. They don't know the upstairs of my house is not liveable space, and they don't need to know, as far as I'm concerned. Their building codes are designed for subdivisions. That's not my situation. ) Still...the building inspector did mention this to me when I was on the phone with him about this building. So if I OBVIOUSLY blast that height requirement too far out of the water, it wouldn't be right. He will look the other way a little, I think, at a foot or two. An obvious height difference? That might be harder. So anyway, I want the building to sit "low" not only for aesthetic reasons, but so I don't bust the codes I'm trying to actually meet. (I go beyond code in all instances, just for the record, where safety or common sense is concerned. I do not necessarily think the same way when it's about feeding the Builder's Association machine. So there. I said it, out loud and in front of God and everybody.) ANYHOW.....that's why my building sits low, and that's why I'll be digging. Contractor did what I asked. Now I will pay with sweat. |
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Expansion joints happened today. AFC sent Ian over with the awesome little saw. In deference to truth, I should note that I tried at least three times to steal this little saw, but AFC was paying attention. He had my number once I tried to steal a level with cool magnets in the side, a significant number of form pins, and his trackhoe. I would have made it with the trackhoe if I'd known how to start the damn thing. Just sayin. http://www.fototime.com/78CE6A57AEB47ED/standard.jpg ETA: I traded expansion joints for a check, since AFC is, technically, finished with this job. He still has a thing or two he promised me, plus backfill and cleanup, to finish. So we shall see whether his finish is as good as his start, which, if it's good, will make me recommend him to everybody I know and their friends and their friends' friends. fingers crossed. It's easy to get busy and not finish as well as you start, yaknow? View Quote Final grade with the rake if necessary. I think you will be fine with the punch items. |
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Ideally, you would have boughten 2 pieces of rebar and put them (touching each other) into the footer while it was poured, with a foot or so sticking up (on the inside of the building) where the panel will be. Could do the same thing with the slab I suppose. It makes zero sense to me, because rust and stuff that happens to rebar, but the inspector claims it is something like 5x more conductive than a pair of copper clad grounding rods. View Quote Just wanted to follow up on this. Was talking with AFC about the grounding issue. It's very interesting that the county just to the south of me (actually I live only about a mile north of that county line) requires the ufer ground. But in MY county, the inspectors don't like it. AFC was saying he didn't like grounding in the footer and turning the footer into "earth via the rebar rods, because he has seen lightning hit a house, blow out stuff in the house, then follow the ground rods through the footer, to the driveway, and blow out a huge chunk of driveway--threw it a few hundred feet into the neighbor's yards. So putting horizontal rebar in a footer, to him, is like asking to have the end of your foundation blown out of your house at some point. The local inspectors agree with him on this, and think it's a bad idea. One county south, they are towing the line of what's the newest idea of grounding. I don't have enough technical knowledge to have a significant opinion, but when I first started mulling the idea of turning my footers into "earth" up through the mulling I've done since, I have not been able to get my gut to buy into this. I'm not saying it won't work. And not saying I know more than the electricians who came up with this. What I do know is that rods driven into the ground...those work, usually. Often enough that we don't see many homes destroyed by lightning. Since lightning takes the easiest path (usually) I like the path into the ground. Years may prove I have not made the best choice. |
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@Rat_Patrol Just wanted to follow up on this. Was talking with AFC about the grounding issue. It's very interesting that the county just to the south of me (actually I live only about a mile north of that county line) requires the ufer ground. But in MY county, the inspectors don't like it. AFC was saying he didn't like grounding in the footer and turning the footer into "earth via the rebar rods, because he has seen lightning hit a house, blow out stuff in the house, then follow the ground rods through the footer, to the driveway, and blow out a huge chunk of driveway--threw it a few hundred feet into the neighbor's yards. So putting horizontal rebar in a footer, to him, is like asking to have the end of your foundation blown out of your house at some point. The local inspectors agree with him on this, and think it's a bad idea. One county south, they are towing the line of what's the newest idea of grounding. I don't have enough technical knowledge to have a significant opinion, but when I first started mulling the idea of turning my footers into "earth" up through the mulling I've done since, I have not been able to get my gut to buy into this. I'm not saying it won't work. And not saying I know more than the electricians who came up with this. What I do know is that rods driven into the ground...those work, usually. Often enough that we don't see many homes destroyed by lightning. Since lightning takes the easiest path (usually) I like the path into the ground. Years may prove I have not made the best choice. View Quote I would have rather driven half a dozen grounding rods, but it's code up here and my hands were tied. Not too say I can't switch my ground point once the inspections are all done... |
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I think it is stupid using steel rebar, be which rusts, as grounding. I would have rather driven half a dozen grounding rods, but it's code up here and my hands were tied. Not too say I can't switch my ground point once the inspections are all done... View Quote I'm trying to figure out the minimum I can get by with for electrical inspection, so I can get them out of here and do my work. |
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Ahhh...indeed. I'm trying to figure out the minimum I can get by with for electrical inspection, so I can get them out of here and do my work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I think it is stupid using steel rebar, be which rusts, as grounding. I would have rather driven half a dozen grounding rods, but it's code up here and my hands were tied. Not too say I can't switch my ground point once the inspections are all done... I'm trying to figure out the minimum I can get by with for electrical inspection, so I can get them out of here and do my work. |
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careful, that single axle trailer could hold far more gravel then its axle can support if you put a big box on it. One yard weights 2500-3000 lbs.
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Delivery out of the question? View Quote The fill gravel for the foundation was delivered. I was really glad to not have to buy a second load. |
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At $430 per load, yeah. I don't need nearly that much, but they charge a bunch to deliver half a load, if they will even do it, as busy as they are. The fill gravel for the foundation was delivered. I was really glad to not have to buy a second load. View Quote Is it a quarry or more of a landscape supply? Ask AFC if he has any recommendations for a hauler. I pay $80 per hour for my trucking. |
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Damn Is it a quarry or more of a landscape supply? Ask AFC if he has any recommendations for a hauler. I pay $80 per hour for my trucking. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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At $430 per load, yeah. I don't need nearly that much, but they charge a bunch to deliver half a load, if they will even do it, as busy as they are. The fill gravel for the foundation was delivered. I was really glad to not have to buy a second load. Is it a quarry or more of a landscape supply? Ask AFC if he has any recommendations for a hauler. I pay $80 per hour for my trucking. |
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Damn Is it a quarry or more of a landscape supply? Ask AFC if he has any recommendations for a hauler. I pay $80 per hour for my trucking. View Quote |
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You can rent a sds max drill & coring bit. I'm normally a buy once cry once guy with tools, but a harbor freight sds plus drill that you buy might not be a bad idea. With a sds plus, it won't run a 5" bit , the hole you need for 4" pipe, but you can drill a lot of smaller holes and just chisel it out. Then you can use the same drill for foundation anchors. Most have a hammer only function, which is good for chipping , scraping, etc.
If you do rent a bigger one, get the ground rod driver as well as well as the core bit. Yes it may be fairly easy to pound down 2 rods, but I guarantee it's not as easy as getting the rod started, setting the tool on top, turning it on, and holding the rod plumb with one gloved hand while it goes down with a cup of coffee in the other. I think you are doing incredibly well with the build considering it's complexities. Let's look at the good things. A- you had the sense to hire a great foundation contractor B- you found a go to plumbing supply in my opinion based upon his advice C-afc had enough common sense & experience to come up with a plan for shit to flow downhill. I'm sure there are more. It's raining so you can take a break, focus & replan. |
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Why not a course or three of block and set your sill on top to bring your height up?
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You can rent a sds max drill & coring bit. I'm normally a buy once cry once guy with tools, but a harbor freight sds plus drill that you buy might not be a bad idea. With a sds plus, it won't run a 5" bit , the hole you need for 4" pipe, but you can drill a lot of smaller holes and just chisel it out. Then you can use the same drill for foundation anchors. Most have a hammer only function, which is good for chipping , scraping, etc. <snip> It's raining so you can take a break, focus & replan. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
You can rent a sds max drill & coring bit. I'm normally a buy once cry once guy with tools, but a harbor freight sds plus drill that you buy might not be a bad idea. With a sds plus, it won't run a 5" bit , the hole you need for 4" pipe, but you can drill a lot of smaller holes and just chisel it out. Then you can use the same drill for foundation anchors. Most have a hammer only function, which is good for chipping , scraping, etc. <snip> It's raining so you can take a break, focus & replan. In the larger scheme of things, it's not that big a deal. Part of being able to do anything from scratch is getting around/over/under obstacles, and I'm generally good at that. I think being forced to hurt the tree more than I already had set me back, mentally, then when it should have been a "cleanup day" it ended up being a "make an even bigger huge f*cking mess day" AND...it was cold and getting colder. I'll be fine once it warms up a little, the sun is out and I get over the idea of drilling a big hole in an enormous, expensive box of poop. When AFC and I talked about the options, I said to him, "honestly I'm not looking forward to cutting into that tightly buried thick-wall pipe full of sewage and tee-ing in. Going in the side sounds easier." He said, "it will be easier." You can rent a sds max drill & coring bit. I'm normally a buy once cry once guy with tools, but a harbor freight sds plus drill that you buy might not be a bad idea. With a sds plus, it won't run a 5" bit , the hole you need for 4" pipe, but you can drill a lot of smaller holes and just chisel it out. Then you can use the same drill for foundation anchors. Most have a hammer only function, which is good for chipping , scraping, etc. I took the evening off and went to a wine tasting, which is where I connect with friends in the area who half way "get" me, and I needed to chill. Friend there was asking how the project was going and thought I'd be better renting this item if it's not something I'll use much. Said I could buy an inexpensive one, but would not get the power that would make my life easier, and that he's rented them before and been really happy. I've been scratching my head, trying to think of possible uses for this tool in the future, and I honestly can't come up with it being more than a "once every fifteen years" item, and for that, I'll rent unless the rental costs as much as the purchase. Friend also said the same people who rent the hammer drill also rent a bit that is the exact size needed for the OD of the 4" pipe. That's handy, cuz I bet buying that bit would hurt. B- you found a go to plumbing supply in my opinion based upon his advice But they'll spend 45 minutes helping me figure out my issue for something they DON'T have. Which is really nice. C-afc had enough common sense & experience to come up with a plan for shit to flow downhill. Me: "I dunno. I'm pretty well full of shit most of the time." (This makes him laugh) Him: "An old contractor told me when I was starting out, 'remember, water don't pile up'. Make it a practice to fill up the tub or run the shower every couple of weeks, even if nobody is staying here." I will, and he's right, but I'm still putting in extra cleanouts. If you do rent a bigger one, get the ground rod driver as well as the core bit.
Yes it may be fairly easy to pound down 2 rods, but I guarantee it's not as easy as getting the rod started, setting the tool on top, turning it on, and holding the rod plumb with one gloved hand while it goes down with a cup of coffee in the other. Oh, and... You had the sense to hire a great foundation contractor Me: Stands there with my coffee and goes, "OMG, you have to tear all this out and start aaaaaaaalllll over!!!" Him: Starts laughing. We've laughed more than we've talked about serious stuff, yet he still is focused on doing it right. It has been damn near 100 percent positive on my end. He's not actually worried about the water, but knows I am, so he did what I wanted. I'll paint enough rubber on the outside of that foundation to waterproof Atlantis. |
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Why not a course or three of block and set your sill on top to bring your height up? View Quote I'm at the point of not wanting to give up that space inside, among other things. Either I'd have to build out those walls, or I will lose a lot of the specific use I'd intended for that side of the building. |
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i had thought about this earlier in the thread but it significantly alters how the walls and trimwork will be done out. i agree that it is one way to increase the sill height and prevent water ingress. the OP is planning on everything directly on the slab, so setting block on the slab complicates that a little bit. i'll post a couple of pictures below of my solution in a similar situation. but for my project it was just a corner mudroom entrance to finish, not an entire perimeter. i guess KwS could do it on two sides of the building, if it is practical to do so. come up a block course or two, waterproof the shit out the exterior, and call it a day. ar-jedi http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32838-1/DSCN7285.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32858-1/DSCN7291.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33948-1/DSCN7511.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34014-1/DSCN7516.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34036-1/DSCN7544.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34383-1/DSCN7655.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34380-1/DSCN7654.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34449-1/DSCN7658.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34505-1/DSCN7687.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37149-1/DSCN8290.JPG View Quote They're beautiful. Come down here and build mine. And light-colored grout. You're brave. Or you really believe in your sealer. That's a gorgeous tile pattern. I want to be you. |
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i had thought about this earlier in the thread but it significantly alters how the walls and trimwork will be done out. i agree that it is one way to increase the sill height and prevent water ingress. the OP is planning on everything directly on the slab, so setting block on the slab complicates that a little bit. i'll post a couple of pictures below of my solution in a similar situation. but for my project it was just a corner mudroom entrance to finish, not an entire perimeter. i guess KwS could do it on two sides of the building, if it is practical to do so. come up a block course or two, waterproof the shit out the exterior, and call it a day. ar-jedi View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Why not a course or three of block and set your sill on top to bring your height up? i agree that it is one way to increase the sill height and prevent water ingress. the OP is planning on everything directly on the slab, so setting block on the slab complicates that a little bit. i'll post a couple of pictures below of my solution in a similar situation. but for my project it was just a corner mudroom entrance to finish, not an entire perimeter. i guess KwS could do it on two sides of the building, if it is practical to do so. come up a block course or two, waterproof the shit out the exterior, and call it a day. ar-jedi I missed the grade problem. It looks like a fair amount of surface water is heading that way from the field too. Except for a retaining wall I think the only option is to put a two or three courses of CMU on top of the slab like you guys mentioned. Waterproof it properly and drain tile. If Kitties goes that route I would probably double frame/stud that wall to avoid the ledge at the interior. It would require jamb extensions for any windows ( maybe drywall returns??? ) either way works. Kitties, I went back to the sketch that you posted on page 4.. I noticed that you have exit doors on the left side of your sketch but none on the right side. If you did add CMU to the long wall is it possible to pitch the water to the right and around the building, avoiding the doors? Just knocking around ideas. |
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You know...I have experience with a fair number of tools, but this one is new to me. I've heard of them my whole life, but since I haven't busted my way through anything harder than 170 year-old oak (which eats homeowner grade tools like they're Doritos), I haven't had time to look around and ask "what are the common uses for a hammer drill and why do I need one?". I've always thought of it as sort of a baby jackhammer. View Quote the traditional "3-jaw" Jacobsen style drill chuck is not well suited for hammering with. instead, a variety of splined chucks were designed by among others, Hilti and Bosch. the primary difference is that the bit is not rigidly held in place by the chuck. within the chuck the bit slides back and forth a fair amount along it's long axis; this allows the rotary hammer to accelerate ("strike and move") just the bit itself, and not the heavy chuck. performance-wise, a rotary hammer makes a standard hammer drill look a child's toy. the two most common chuck types for the man-portable size rotary hammers are called "SDS-Plus" and "SDS-Max". accordingly, a rotary hammer equipped with a SDS-Max chuck accepts SDS-Max bits. and similarly for SDS-Plus. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_shank#SDS_shank example SDS-Plus rotary hammer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-8-Amp-Corded-1-1-8-in-SDS-plus-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Auxiliary-Handle-and-Carrying-Case-RH228VC/203104642 example SDS-Plus bit bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Bulldog-SDS-plus-Chisels-Carbide-Masonry-Trade-Rotary-Hammer-Bit-Set-6-Piece-HCST006/203285121 --- example SDS-Max rotary hammer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-13-Amp-Corded-1-5-8-in-SDS-max-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Auxilliary-Side-Handle-and-Carrying-Case-11264EVS/202080350 example SDS-Max bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-1-8-in-x-21-in-4-Cutter-SDS-MAX-Carbide-Bit-48-20-3966/203176040 as noted above, for large holes you can rent an SDS-Max rotary hammer and a large "core bit" (which as you can guess, just drills the perimeter of the hole. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-4-in-x-17-in-x-22-in-SDS-max-Carbide-Rotary-Hammer-Core-Bit-for-Masonry-and-Concrete-Drilling-HC8555/202242695 but as also noted above, you can use a hammer drill and a small masonry bit (e.g. 1/4" diameter) to make a "circle of holes" in the concrete, and then employ a brick chisel and an engineer's hammer to break out the section you need. ar-jedi ps just as an aside, most rotary hammers feature a "no rotation" setting. this allows you to use the rotary hammer as a small jackhammer, which when combined with a chisel bit is OUTSTANDING for rehab tile jobs! |
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the thing you are actually looking for is called a "rotary hammer" -- it's a hammer drill on steroids. the traditional "3-jaw" Jacobsen style drill chuck is not well suited for hammering with. instead, a variety of splined chucks were designed by among others, Hilti and Bosch. the primary difference is that the bit is not rigidly held in place by the chuck. within the chuck the bit slides back and forth a fair amount along it's long axis; this allows the rotary hammer to accelerate ("strike and move") just the bit itself, and not the heavy chuck. performance-wise, a rotary hammer makes a standard hammer drill look a child's toy. the two most common chuck types for the man-portable size rotary hammers are called "SDS-Plus" and "SDS-Max". accordingly, a rotary hammer equipped with a SDS-Max chuck accepts SDS-Max bits. and similarly for SDS-Plus. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_shank#SDS_shank example SDS-Plus rotary hammer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-8-Amp-Corded-1-1-8-in-SDS-plus-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Auxiliary-Handle-and-Carrying-Case-RH228VC/203104642 example SDS-Plus bit bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Bulldog-SDS-plus-Chisels-Carbide-Masonry-Trade-Rotary-Hammer-Bit-Set-6-Piece-HCST006/203285121 --- example SDS-Max rotary hammer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-13-Amp-Corded-1-5-8-in-SDS-max-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Auxilliary-Side-Handle-and-Carrying-Case-11264EVS/202080350 example SDS-Max bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-1-8-in-x-21-in-4-Cutter-SDS-MAX-Carbide-Bit-48-20-3966/203176040 as noted above, for large holes you can rent an SDS-Max rotary hammer and a large "core bit" (which as you can guess, just drills the perimeter of the hole. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-4-in-x-17-in-x-22-in-SDS-max-Carbide-Rotary-Hammer-Core-Bit-for-Masonry-and-Concrete-Drilling-HC8555/202242695 but as also noted above, you can use a hammer drill and a small masonry bit (e.g. 1/4" diameter) to make a "circle of holes" in the concrete, and then employ a brick chisel and an engineer's hammer to break out the section you need. ar-jedi ps just as an aside, most rotary hammers feature a "no rotation" setting. this allows you to use the rotary hammer as a small jackhammer, which when combined with a chisel bit is OUTSTANDING for rehab tile jobs! http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/70856-2/IMG_6942.JPG View Quote Just out of interest, since I don't know the model and such, should I pay for one of those? not saying I will buy one. And I have NOT looked at your links yet. But I will. |
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@handydave
Is this the kind of rotary hammer you mean? rotary hammer I can buy this for $100. But it looks like the cheaper hole saws (that's how I think of it) for concrete at 5" are more than $200 per bit. That's what I was figuring. I might buy a cheap drill for this one job, but I will spend too much for the bit itself. The trouble with renting is that you get tools that've had the sh*t beat out of them, and they may or may not function well. This is troublesome, when the renter does not know what a properly functioning tool can do. I might have to do some calling. Friends might have such a tool and might help me use it for the first time. |
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But it looks like the cheaper hole saws (that's how I think of it) for concrete at 5" are more than $200 per bit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
But it looks like the cheaper hole saws (that's how I think of it) for concrete at 5" are more than $200 per bit. Quoted:
The trouble with renting is that you get tools that've had the sh*t beat out of them, and they may or may not function well. This is troublesome, when the renter does not know what a properly functioning tool can do. ar-jedi |
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So...that's your rotary hammer? View Quote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006030DQM/ that rotary hammer is an SDS-Plus tool, which you should read to mean "modest size bits and projects" -- for drilling holes up to 1" or so, and core drilling up to 3" or so. the next bigger size of rotary hammers uses hefty SDS-Max bits, which should read to mean "big ass size bits and projects". but again, another way to make a big hole in a foundation (etc): use a modest SDS-Plus rotary hammer and a 1/4" masonry bit. just make a "circle of holes" and then get your brick chisel and engineer's hammer out and start whacking away. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HCK001-7-Piece-SDS-plus-Rotary/dp/B0000TZYZM/ and https://www.amazon.com/Dasco-Pro-G337-Utility-TargetGuard/dp/B0000BYCZV/ ar-jedi ps note germane to your project, but a hammer such as the above, set on "hammer-only" mode, and a but such as i link to below will make quick work of ANY bathroom demo project. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HS1465-SDS-plus-Tile-Chisel/dp/B000WA99IW/ |
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the rotary hammer in my pic above is as follows: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006030DQM/ that rotary hammer is an SDS-Plus tool, which you should read to mean "modest size bits and projects" -- for drilling holes up to 1" or so, and core drilling up to 3" or so. the next bigger size of rotary hammers uses hefty SDS-Max bits, which should read to mean "big ass size bits and projects". but again, another way to make a big hole in a foundation (etc): use a modest SDS-Plus rotary hammer and a 1/4" masonry bit. just make a "circle of holes" and then get your brick chisel and engineer's hammer out and start whacking away. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HCK001-7-Piece-SDS-plus-Rotary/dp/B0000TZYZM/ and https://www.amazon.com/Dasco-Pro-G337-Utility-TargetGuard/dp/B0000BYCZV/ ar-jedi ps note germane to your project, but a hammer such as the above, set on "hammer-only" mode, and a but such as i link to below will make quick work of ANY bathroom demo project. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HS1465-SDS-plus-Tile-Chisel/dp/B000WA99IW/ View Quote Appreciate everyone's input and thoughts. I take all this into consideration as I make decisions, as y'all have more experience than I do with much of this. Thank you for all the posts you make, the pics, and the advice you share. |
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The only problematic surface water comes from the neighbor's yard, through the chain link. There is SOME surface water approaching the building from my yard, but mostly, it's from the neighbor's yard. MOST of the surface water from the neighbor's yard, and ALL the water from my yard, drains down to the pond in the back. That is the natural flow of surface water for the land around me. Or it SHOULD drain that direction. Now it will drain down to the ditch beside the NEW neighbor's driveway behind me. Driveway is Visible in this photo, but it's cropped. The drop is sharper and the pond is behind the back end of the truck. http://www.fototime.com/13827942E42E1BC/standard.jpg Hopefully, at some point, if the neighbor handles his water movement right and cleans out his ditch, all this water will go into his pond, as it has for the last 170 years. (The bricks in my chimneys are made from mud out of that pond, mixed with hog hair). His drainage ditch is now full of clay mud, since he failed to secure the piles of dirt that were uphill from that ditch, when he was building. He installed his driveway, packed the hell out of it, dug the nice ditches on the sides, then did nothing to keep them from filling with clay when it rained. Neighbor WANTS more water in that pond, so no problem. He's going to get WAY more than he planned, since we've had two dry years, and he built based on that, and ignored my advice that the whole area down there will turn to mush. (I told him he was building in a flood zone. He did not listen. I can't do more than that. You can't fix stupid and I will not spend time trying.) Now he's got his own new roof, and he's going to have MY new roof, all pouring onto his property via the slope that Mother Nature provided. My only issue is the water coming downhill from the neighbor's yard. I've NEVER had a mushy back yard, but the spot in the middle of my back yard is the low spot on the property. My house sits on the hump. Slopes down toward the front and down toward the back, the way all smart people built houses, according to my dad and grandfather. I believe my drains and waterproofing the existing foundation will take care of it. If I'm wrong, y'all will hear about it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Edit- looks like a missed a few posts above. Again, too slow at the keyboard I missed the grade problem. It looks like a fair amount of surface water is heading that way from the field too. Except for a retaining wall I think the only option is to put a two or three courses of CMU on top of the slab like you guys mentioned. Waterproof it properly and drain tile. If Kitties goes that route I would probably double frame/stud that wall to avoid the ledge at the interior. It would require jamb extensions for any windows ( maybe drywall returns??? ) either way works. Kitties, I went back to the sketch that you posted on page 4.. I noticed that you have exit doors on the left side of your sketch but none on the right side. If you did add CMU to the long wall is it possible to pitch the water to the right and around the building, avoiding the doors? Just knocking around ideas. MOST of the surface water from the neighbor's yard, and ALL the water from my yard, drains down to the pond in the back. That is the natural flow of surface water for the land around me. Or it SHOULD drain that direction. Now it will drain down to the ditch beside the NEW neighbor's driveway behind me. Driveway is Visible in this photo, but it's cropped. The drop is sharper and the pond is behind the back end of the truck. http://www.fototime.com/13827942E42E1BC/standard.jpg Hopefully, at some point, if the neighbor handles his water movement right and cleans out his ditch, all this water will go into his pond, as it has for the last 170 years. (The bricks in my chimneys are made from mud out of that pond, mixed with hog hair). His drainage ditch is now full of clay mud, since he failed to secure the piles of dirt that were uphill from that ditch, when he was building. He installed his driveway, packed the hell out of it, dug the nice ditches on the sides, then did nothing to keep them from filling with clay when it rained. Neighbor WANTS more water in that pond, so no problem. He's going to get WAY more than he planned, since we've had two dry years, and he built based on that, and ignored my advice that the whole area down there will turn to mush. (I told him he was building in a flood zone. He did not listen. I can't do more than that. You can't fix stupid and I will not spend time trying.) Now he's got his own new roof, and he's going to have MY new roof, all pouring onto his property via the slope that Mother Nature provided. My only issue is the water coming downhill from the neighbor's yard. I've NEVER had a mushy back yard, but the spot in the middle of my back yard is the low spot on the property. My house sits on the hump. Slopes down toward the front and down toward the back, the way all smart people built houses, according to my dad and grandfather. I believe my drains and waterproofing the existing foundation will take care of it. If I'm wrong, y'all will hear about it. Back to the concrete drilling tools. If not drilling concrete for a living, I would rent a rotary hammer capable of turning a 5" core bit to punch a hole in the septic tank. It's almost 1K to purchase a good rotary hammer ( along with it being physically heavy ), for a few solid bits and large core bit. I've done both, the core bit and a series of small holes, then trying to punch out the center. Both can be physically demanding horizontally and doable but the 5" the core bit is much less of a pita. But if you do decide to use a series of small holes and punching out the center I would start with a 6" circle because because the chipping bit, to connect the small holes, tends to ride towards the center of the hole reducing the opening size. Personally, I would purchase a mid-sized rotary hammer as mentioned above. Though I have a spline drive 1.5" rotary hammer ( a fantastic tool ) the many SDS versions is the current trend in the trades. A mid-sized ( 1" solid bit rating ) SDS rotary hammer would be nice to have for your sill anchor bolts and moderate sized in your future. Not too hard on the wallet but very capable. |
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That's good to hear, you're there, I/we aren't. Looking ahead, are you comfortable with the clearance between the wood siding and the finish grade? If you will have about 8" or more of clearance between the finish grade and the bottom of the wood siding that sounds good, to me... Back to the concrete drilling tools. If not drilling concrete for a living, I would rent a rotary hammer capable of turning a 5" core bit to punch a hole in the septic tank. It's almost 1K to purchase a good rotary hammer ( along with it being physically heavy ), for a few solid bits and large core bit. I've done both, the core bit and a series of small holes, then trying to punch out the center. Both can be physically demanding horizontally and doable but the 5" the core bit is much less of a pita. But if you do decide to use a series of small holes and punching out the center I would start with a 6" circle because because the chipping bit, to connect the small holes, tends to ride towards the center of the hole reducing the opening size. Personally, I would purchase a mid-sized rotary hammer as mentioned above. Though I have a spline drive 1.5" rotary hammer ( a fantastic tool ) the many SDS versions is the current trend in the trades. A mid-sized ( 1" solid bit rating ) SDS rotary hammer would be nice to have for your sill anchor bolts and moderate sized in your future. Not too hard on the wallet but very capable. View Quote As to the grade, I dont' think I'll know whether I'm comfortable with it until I get the drains in. I think I'm going to not fill with soil, but just gravel, to create a gravel swale (sort of) with perf pipe on that most troublesome side of the building. With gravel actually ON the footer, and rubber membrane, I think I'll be okay. The siding will NOT be 8" above the gravel, probably. AFC actually brought me some super-stick roofing edge membrane that he suggested using to wrap around that low side since I'm worried. (He's not worried.) He suggested wrapping it over top of the rubber membrane I paint on. That would come up the side of the sill like a flashing, sort of. He had the roll left over from a job he did a year ago and thought it might be helpful so he gave it to me. While I'm considering that, I'm uncomfortable plastering something against the sill itself that would prevent water EGRESS as well as ingress. I've just seen a lot of rot where people put stuff up against wood. I dunno. I'm mulling while I'm on this edit. |
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Got it. Thank you. As to the grade, I dont' think I'll know whether I'm comfortable with it until I get the drains in. I think I'm going to not fill with soil, but just gravel, to create a gravel swale (sort of) with perf pipe on that most troublesome side of the building. With gravel actually ON the footer, and rubber membrane, I think I'll be okay. The siding will NOT be 8" above the gravel, probably. AFC actually brought me some super-stick roofing edge membrane that he suggested using to wrap around that low side since I'm worried. (He's not worried.) He suggested wrapping it over top of the rubber membrane I paint on. That would come up the side of the sill like a flashing, sort of. He had the roll left over from a job he did a year ago and thought it might be helpful so he gave it to me. While I'm considering that, I'm uncomfortable plastering something against the sill itself that would prevent water EGRESS as well as ingress. I've just seen a lot of rot where people put stuff up against wood. I dunno. I'm mulling while I'm on this edit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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That's good to hear, you're there, I/we aren't. Looking ahead, are you comfortable with the clearance between the wood siding and the finish grade? If you will have about 8" or more of clearance between the finish grade and the bottom of the wood siding that sounds good, to me... Back to the concrete drilling tools. If not drilling concrete for a living, I would rent a rotary hammer capable of turning a 5" core bit to punch a hole in the septic tank. It's almost 1K to purchase a good rotary hammer ( along with it being physically heavy ), for a few solid bits and large core bit. I've done both, the core bit and a series of small holes, then trying to punch out the center. Both can be physically demanding horizontally and doable but the 5" the core bit is much less of a pita. But if you do decide to use a series of small holes and punching out the center I would start with a 6" circle because because the chipping bit, to connect the small holes, tends to ride towards the center of the hole reducing the opening size. Personally, I would purchase a mid-sized rotary hammer as mentioned above. Though I have a spline drive 1.5" rotary hammer ( a fantastic tool ) the many SDS versions is the current trend in the trades. A mid-sized ( 1" solid bit rating ) SDS rotary hammer would be nice to have for your sill anchor bolts and moderate sized in your future. Not too hard on the wallet but very capable. As to the grade, I dont' think I'll know whether I'm comfortable with it until I get the drains in. I think I'm going to not fill with soil, but just gravel, to create a gravel swale (sort of) with perf pipe on that most troublesome side of the building. With gravel actually ON the footer, and rubber membrane, I think I'll be okay. The siding will NOT be 8" above the gravel, probably. AFC actually brought me some super-stick roofing edge membrane that he suggested using to wrap around that low side since I'm worried. (He's not worried.) He suggested wrapping it over top of the rubber membrane I paint on. That would come up the side of the sill like a flashing, sort of. He had the roll left over from a job he did a year ago and thought it might be helpful so he gave it to me. While I'm considering that, I'm uncomfortable plastering something against the sill itself that would prevent water EGRESS as well as ingress. I've just seen a lot of rot where people put stuff up against wood. I dunno. I'm mulling while I'm on this edit. FWIW, I've seen those gravel to the surface drain systems. Glad you thought of it, they work very well. |
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I understand your concern. The ability to let moisture/vapor escape from the interior is important. Predicting the dew point in a wall cavity is difficult. I had a hard time when the trades started using non-permeable membranes because we're taught to let vapor out of the building. Personally, I wouldn't be as concerned at your building as I would be at a church with 2K members in the pews on Sunday. At your building, there will be a lot of surface area above the membrane to let moist vapor out through a permeable house wrap. AFC sounds like a good crew but I would use a membrane in this instance because there is no other option to protect the structure. The wood siding / skin is a separate concern. FWIW, I've seen those gravel to the surface drain systems. Glad you thought of it, they work very well. View Quote That does not account for the Zip tape of course, but it also doesn't account for house wrap. (They say the Zip system is complete in itself.) When I take them my list, they will price it out both ways. Any of you have experience with Zip house envelopes? |
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The guys at my favorite building supply are talking to me about the Zip system, since plywood and OSB are at 17.00 per sheet and the Zip is only $20 per sheet. That does not account for the Zip tape of course, but it also doesn't account for house wrap. (They say the Zip system is complete in itself.) When I take them my list, they will price it out both ways. Any of you have experience with Zip house envelopes? View Quote Since you mentioned here, I've been trying to learn more about it. Apparently it uses the same resin that is in AdvanTech floor sheathing. Good stuff. If you want, I have three youtube videos that you may find interesting but don't want to clutter your thread. Two of them are amusing, Tyvek and Huber ( the maker of ZIP ) are trying to discredit the others product. |
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I don't. I'm seeing it more frequently on commercial projects and few residential. Since you mentioned here, I've been trying to learn more about it. Apparently it uses the same resin that is in AdvanTech floor sheathing. Good stuff. If you want, I have three youtube videos that you may find interesting but don't want to clutter your thread. Two of them are amusing, Tyvek and Huber ( the maker of ZIP ) are trying to discredit the others product. View Quote I would love to see! I have not had time to do any serious research, and although my favorite building supply place (for understanding, it's "Allen County Farm Service Lumber" which should tell you what kind of folks work there and hint at their mindsets) is poking at me to consider it, I don't have ANY other information yet. I'm at that "put out the fire in front of you" point. Sheathing is not on fire yet. |
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Most people run like hell and don’t come back when a septic tank is being opened up. I’m sure he was surprised when you came back, much less stuck your head over the hole to get a measurement. More so when you were the plumber on the job.
As far as the drill goes, that is a baby sds designed for a 5/8” bit. It will still be better than any regular hammer drill for the anchor bolts. If you can borrow a sds max drill I can send you a ground rod driver & coring bit to borrow. You can rent a core bit & drill as well. This is why I recommended the harbor freight tools. If you can borrow a sds max I would buy the sds plus to drill all the holes. If you can’t borrow , or rent , buy the sds max and get an adapter to adapt to the plus size bits. Harbor freight sds Harbor freight sds max |
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Most people run like hell and don’t come back when a septic tank is being opened up. I’m sure he was surprised when you came back, much less stuck your head over the hole to get a measurement. More so when you were the plumber on the job. As far as the drill goes, that is a baby sds designed for a 5/8” bit. It will still be better than any regular hammer drill for the anchor bolts. If you can borrow a sds max drill I can send you a ground rod driver & coring bit to borrow. You can rent a core bit & drill as well. This is why I recommended the harbor freight tools. If you can borrow a sds max I would buy the sds plus to drill all the holes. If you can’t borrow , or rent , buy the sds max and get an adapter to adapt to the plus size bits. Harbor freight sds Harbor freight sds max View Quote I've got to get ahead of this work deadline and I will be able to focus on the links and what is what. Of course, by the time I do that, it may be a "need it right now" thing. BUT...the reason I hesitate is, Handyman guy who helps me actually has a hammer drill. I don't know what size or kind, or whether it will take the 5" core bit. I have to do some looking and asking, I think. I should also check with the local rental companies. They might be easy and cheap to rent here. If I can power through this edit, I may follow up on this today, so I know what I'm looking at. |
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Him: points to the spots. Then proceeds to tell me how to use a water hose and a jet nozzle to clean out my own drain. Dude finishes sucking the poop out of my tank, and spends 30 extra minutes (AFter I'd given him his money) talking to me about septic systems, how they work, what's bullshit and what's not, and how to cut into mine. He also explained to me how my system APPEARS to be in good shape, but it's at the cost of my lateral lines (this he determines after questioning me about how we use water.) View Quote I'm getting into my first experience w/ septic and wonder how he determined problems about water use? Also, buying a place that has been vacant for 2-3 years. Is there anything I need to do to re-initiate the system? Hope this isn't too much of a hijack of your thread. Thanks |
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Going back through all these posts now. It's raining here, so I'm not going to be physically on that job today, and likely not tomorrow.
As examples of my tool buying mentality: I am buying an $850 tile saw because it will make me cuss a lot less than some unstable POS I get for half the money, because I have a lot of tile to lay on at least three projects. I can then sell that saw for a decent chunk of the original price once I'm done, if I decide I'm not going to lay a lot of tile again. I'm ALSO considering buying a little shark "rip saw" for tile because I have an entire pallet of 8 X 48 tile to lay, and I anticipate having to rip enough of those to make it worth the cost. Again, it's the "don't want to cuss at it," component. That's over a thousand dollars on tile saws so I don't cuss more and ruin more material than necessary. BUT-- I am buying my framing gun from Lowe's--Bostitch probably (since I already own their mid-size nailer)-- rather than going for a hard-core pro variety, because I'm not framing every day and once this building is up, they'll sit in the cases most of the time, and these tools run well enough for what I need. I bought Harbor Freight Angle grinders because I don't use them much. (If I start using an angle grinder a lot, and these piss me off, I'll go buy a better one, but by that time I will *KNOW* what I want and what I hate. ) Sawzall? Porter Cable corded, back before Black and Decker took Porter Cable the way of all companies. 20 years later, with a taped up cord, it's still a monster. (20 years ago, cordless tools were not viable for hard use. This appears to have changed.) Given that general "philosophy" of "buy once cry once" when it's a tool that gets used a lot, I've got some questions about this hammer drill thing. From this post by ar-jedi he said this.. just as an aside, most rotary hammers feature a "no rotation" setting.
this allows you to use the rotary hammer as a small jackhammer, which when combined with a chisel bit is OUTSTANDING for rehab tile jobs! View Quote New model! SDS PLUS EXTREME MAX OMG AWESOME SOUNDING THING!!! billhw1 says: Personally, I would purchase a mid-sized rotary hammer as mentioned above. Though I have a spline drive 1.5" rotary hammer ( a fantastic tool ) the many SDS versions is the current trend in the trades. A mid-sized ( 1" solid bit rating ) SDS rotary hammer would be nice to have for your sill anchor bolts and moderate sized in your future. Not too hard on the wallet but very capable. View Quote Quoted:
As far as the drill goes, that is a baby sds designed for a 5/8” bit. It will still be better than any regular hammer drill for the anchor bolts. If you can borrow a sds max drill I can send you a ground rod driver & coring bit to borrow. You can rent a core bit & drill as well. This is why I recommended the harbor freight tools. If you can borrow a sds max I would buy the sds plus to drill all the holes. If you can’t borrow , or rent , buy the sds max and get an adapter to adapt to the plus size bits. Harbor freight sds Harbor freight sds max View Quote Questions: 1-The more expensive of the Harbor Freight tools is only $100 less than the "smaller" Bosch tools linked above. I'm not into dropping extra money for a tool I'll hardly use, and those low prices are VERY attractive, HOWEVER--while I can't drop the $550 for the big nice "Max" Bosch in the earlier link, I COULD buy the one for $230. Maybe. Am I looking at apples-apples as far as "capability" even if maybe not "quality or longevity"? 2-I like that the Harbor Freight tools are shaped like "drills" instead of the sawzall shape. That seems easier to manage, to me, especially for applications like setting anchors through the mudsill. But maybe not? Does this configuration make it less useful as the tile chisel ar-jedi mentioned? 3-billhw1 mentioned a 1" solid bit rating A lot of terms have been thrown around, and I'm obviously not looking at the same characteristics that make a regular old drill work or not work. I will do my own looking to see if I can sort this stuff out, but since y'all know what you're looking at, if you have personal "minimums" for making a rotary hammer worthy of purchase, please share those? |
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Following this thread keenly, love it. I'm getting into my first experience w/ septic and wonder how he determined problems about water use? Also, buying a place that has been vacant for 2-3 years. Is there anything I need to do to re-initiate the system? Hope this isn't too much of a hijack of your thread. Thanks View Quote Here's what he said-- He asked me whether I had a washer/dryer. I said yes, and I do several loads per day. Also that we take BATHS more than showers (that's another discussion) and that's a load of water running through the system. Plus a load or two of dishes per day. He said, "you use a lot of water." I said, "Yes. But there's only two of us." He said, "doesn't matter how many solids you're generating. It matters more *how* you use your water. He said (paraphrasing). People get their tank pumped once, and it fools them into thinking their septic doesn't need pumping regularly, because they open the tank and see a lot of water, with just a little sludge/solids in the bottom. (This is what I had, exactly). But when I opened the tank, did you notice that your water was black? (I did notice). He said, there were a lot of broken up, floating solids in your tank. That's because when you run the washer a lot, or any other *constant water flow that lasts more than just a splash at a time* , the water comes into the tank, hits the baffle and goes straight down, into the sludge pack at the bottom, and "lifts"the sludge and circulates it. That means those small pieces of solids are then floating to the back of the tank and out into your field lines, which is what you DO NOT want. (Basically I'm keeping my solids circulating constantly) The goal, he said, is to keep the solids in the tank and let the liquids out into the field lines so they perk. If I had let my tank continue to go because it seemed to be running correctly, I would end up with clogged field lines. Even though my system has been running well for 17 years with no issues, I have probably done SOME damage to my field lines because of the way I use water. And THAT is why people should get their septic tanks pumped every 3-4 years. It's $225 that will save you $3-4000 later, when your field lines clog up. He noted what I already knew--that the ground in this area is EXCELLENT for septic. It perks incredibly well, but not too fast so the cleaning qualities of the system are ineffective. My gut (and I did not like this guy at all when he first showed up) tells me he is NOT full of shit, and that he was telling me this because he knew I was interested and would listen. He told me a bunch of other stuff about septic, setup, what's code bullshit and what makes sense, exactly how to drill through my tank and the options for how I could put the pipe in, AND he told me to shove the pipe into the tank a foot or two. I did not get the sense that he was giving me the spiel to keep the customer in the money train. I had always heard the "3-4 year ish" numbers, but nobody had ever explained it in a way that made sense and I could believe. ETA: I understood him to mean that, the higher you let that sludge layer get, the more solids get out into the lateral lines. It makes sense to me. "Get the tank pumped to remove that sludge layer every 3-4 years or so. Honestly, it'll also keep you from forgetting where your tank is, exactly. If I had the property you have, I would first: 1-Find the septic system. (You know how to look at the ground and ID your lateral lines? IF you have lines. I'm assuming you probably do) 2-Determine how big the system is and what shape it's in. 3-Have it pumped. This will probably take care of #s 1 and 2 for you. But I would try to be out there when the pump truck arrives, so you can talk to them and ask questions about your system. I would ask around in the area for who is good and who is not. Once you find ONE good handyman, plumber or electrician, my way is to ask them a lot of questions, because they all know each other, and the good ones will not recommend another professional who is not also a good pro in his field. (But you have to find the first good one. Since you don't live there full time, that's harder.) ETA: You will probably know how well the septic is working by flushing a few times, including solids. I forgot to mention that he said whatever toilet paper I was using, that I should keep using that, because he did not notice a lot of paper buildup, which means it's dissolving the way it should. FWIW, I use the Sam's Club Member's Mark paper that I buy in the gazillion-roll packs. (I hate runnin' out of toilet paper.) It's soft, 2-ply, and it's less expensive bought in bulk. ETA2: I would be remiss if I did not mention.....if this is a very old property, you may run into God-only-knows-what in use as septic. When we bought this place, the existing septic was a 55 gallon drum that had long-since collapsed and was not funcitoning. Nobody had lived here to flush a lot, apparently, for a few years. Because all there was, were some old clay tiles running into the back yard, and THAT was functioning as the septic I guess. The gray water from the kitchen sink was running through an old black poly pipe out into the back yard, where it proceeded to slant UPWARD, so the first time I dumped two gallons of water down the sink, that pipe filled up and overflowed into the cabinet base under the sink. (Yep, that's right. The poly pipe was not even actually attached to the sink drain.) Until you get there and start using that house and poking around, you won't know what you've got. If you have to replace the septic system, that needs to go EARLY on your list of priorities, so you can get it in the ground and get moving on other stuff, and not have to dig that up later. |
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Going back through all these posts now. It's raining here, so I'm not going to be physically on that job today, and likely not tomorrow. As examples of my tool buying mentality: I am buying an $850 tile saw because it will make me cuss a lot less than some unstable POS I get for half the money, because I have a lot of tile to lay on at least three projects. I can then sell that saw for a decent chunk of the original price once I'm done, if I decide I'm not going to lay a lot of tile again. I'm ALSO considering buying a little shark "rip saw" for tile because I have an entire pallet of 8 X 48 tile to lay, and I anticipate having to rip enough of those to make it worth the cost. Again, it's the "don't want to cuss at it," component. That's over a thousand dollars on tile saws so I don't cuss more and ruin more material than necessary. BUT-- I am buying my framing gun from Lowe's--Bostitch probably (since I already own their mid-size nailer)-- rather than going for a hard-core pro variety, because I'm not framing every day and once this building is up, they'll sit in the cases most of the time, and these tools run well enough for what I need. I bought Harbor Freight Angle grinders because I don't use them much. (If I start using an angle grinder a lot, and these piss me off, I'll go buy a better one, but by that time I will *KNOW* what I want and what I hate. ) Sawzall? Porter Cable corded, back before Black and Decker took Porter Cable the way of all companies. 20 years later, with a taped up cord, it's still a monster. (20 years ago, cordless tools were not viable for hard use. This appears to have changed.) Given that general "philosophy" of "buy once cry once" when it's a tool that gets used a lot, I've got some questions about this hammer drill thing. From this post by ar-jedi he said this.. That is a very attractive option. I have some of these tile rehab jobs coming up. I have now been through all of your links. I see on the rotary hammer you linked on amazon, that at the bottom of that page they note "there is a new model available." It's less money and I can't quite tell that I'm looking at apples to apples in this case, especially since they're adding fun names like "SDS plus Extreme Max"!!!!! to their new model. Let's confuse the clueless customer, shall we? Here is the link to the "new" model they show on the same page as your hammer. New model! SDS PLUS EXTREME MAX OMG AWESOME SOUNDING THING!!! billhw1 says: Handy Dave said: I checked these links and read some of the reviews. Questions: 1-The more expensive of the Harbor Freight tools is only $100 less than the "smaller" Bosch tools linked above. I'm not into dropping extra money for a tool I'll hardly use, and those low prices are VERY attractive, HOWEVER--while I can't drop the $550 for the big nice "Max" Bosch in the earlier link, I COULD buy the one for $230. Maybe. Am I looking at apples-apples as far as "capability" even if maybe not "quality or longevity"? 2-I like that the Harbor Freight tools are shaped like "drills" instead of the sawzall shape. That seems easier to manage, to me, especially for applications like setting anchors through the mudsill. But maybe not? Does this configuration make it less useful as the tile chisel ar-jedi mentioned? 3-billhw1 mentioned a 1" solid bit rating A lot of terms have been thrown around, and I'm obviously not looking at the same characteristics that make a regular old drill work or not work. I will do my own looking to see if I can sort this stuff out, but since y'all know what you're looking at, if you have personal "minimums" for making a rotary hammer worthy of purchase, please share those? View Quote Core bits have less friction than solid bits and because of that a drill that is rated for a 1.5" solid bit ( my rotary hammer ) can be also rated for a 5", more or less, core bit. |
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The Milwaukee that you mentioned above on the 29th is rated for a 5/8" solid bit. That should take care of most folks needs and for your your sill plate anchors. It wont turn a 5" core bit for your septic tank ( it would get hot and die ) but you can rent something for that particular hole. The majority of rotary hammers have a drill and hammer function and less frequently, a drill only function. The particular drill that you linked to doesn't appear to have the "hammer only" function. If that's not a concern of yours it doesn't matter. Core bits have less friction than solid bits and because of that a drill that is rated for a 1.5" solid bit ( my rotary hammer ) can be also rated for a 5", more or less, core bit. View Quote With a coupon, I can walk away with that hammer for $100. (Plus bits, of course.) Tempted to get it, drill holes around the perimeter of a circle, and create my own knockout, since it appears this will also do fine for anchoring my sills, AND I can then use it to bust up tile (some of which *I* laid, and that stuff is not coming up easily ). 1-The big complaint is that it does not list a bit rating, and that's what everybody was wondering. 2-A rotary hammer for a day, here will be $60, PLUS another $35 for a bit larger than 1/2" BUT.... 3-I have not yet found a rental company who has a hammer that will drive a 5" core bit, NOR do they rent the 5" core bits. They have core drivers, which are big things too heavy for me to use sideways. There may be a rental company that has one. I am still looking. |
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Absolutely not. Here's what he said-- .... <snip> My gut (and I did not like this guy at all when he first showed up) tells me he is NOT full of shit, and that he was telling me this because he knew I was interested and would listen. He told me a bunch of other stuff about septic, setup, what's code bullshit and what makes sense, exactly how to drill through my tank and the options for how I could put the pipe in, AND he told me to shove the pipe into the tank a foot or two. I did not get the sense that he was giving me the spiel to keep the customer in the money train. I had always heard the "3-4 year ish" numbers, but nobody had ever explained it in a way that made sense and I could believe. ETA: I understood him to mean that, the higher you let that sludge layer get, the more solids get out into the lateral lines. It makes sense to me. "Get the tank pumped to remove that sludge layer every 3-4 years or so. Honestly, it'll also keep you from forgetting where your tank is, exactly. If I had the property you have, I would first: 1-Find the septic system. (You know how to look at the ground and ID your lateral lines? IF you have lines. I'm assuming you probably do) 2-Determine how big the system is and what shape it's in. 3-Have it pumped. This will probably take care of #s 1 and 2 for you. But I would try to be out there when the pump truck arrives, so you can talk to them and ask questions about your system. I would ask around in the area for who is good and who is not. Once you find ONE good handyman, plumber or electrician, my way is to ask them a lot of questions, because they all know each other, and the good ones will not recommend another professional who is not also a good pro in his field. (But you have to find the first good one. Since you don't live there full time, that's harder.) ETA: You will probably know how well the septic is working by flushing a few times, including solids. I forgot to mention that he said whatever toilet paper I was using, that I should keep using that, because he did not notice a lot of paper buildup, which means it's dissolving the way it should. FWIW, I use the Sam's Club Member's Mark paper that I buy in the gazillion-roll packs. (I hate runnin' out of toilet paper.) It's soft, 2-ply, and it's less expensive bought in bulk. ETA2: I would be remiss if I did not mention.....if this is a very old property, you may run into God-only-knows-what in use as septic. When we bought this place, the existing septic was a 55 gallon drum that had long-since collapsed and was not funcitoning. Nobody had lived here to flush a lot, apparently, for a few years. Because all there was, were some old clay tiles running into the back yard, and THAT was functioning as the septic I guess. The gray water from the kitchen sink was running through an old black poly pipe out into the back yard, where it proceeded to slant UPWARD, so the first time I dumped two gallons of water down the sink, that pipe filled up and overflowed into the cabinet base under the sink. (Yep, that's right. The poly pipe was not even actually attached to the sink drain.) Until you get there and start using that house and poking around, you won't know what you've got. If you have to replace the septic system, that needs to go EARLY on your list of priorities, so you can get it in the ground and get moving on other stuff, and not have to dig that up later. View Quote Much Appreciated RR |
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