User Panel
I don't ride anymore but Advrider.com
and thumpertalk.com are good websites/forums. |
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I have a 2010 , still in the break in mode . So I have not got to the full power of it yet . Its not the best for off road riding , But its not bad. I got it mainly for on road ,with some off road every now and then. Good little bike, medium fair fuel economy mine gets 50 miles pergallon, if I take it easy. goes under 49mpg if I am running hard.... limited top speed max out at 90mph, but not for long, you will destroy it running over 5000 rpm steadily. , they dont really LIKE to run a constant 75 miles per hour, but will run 65 all day and all night.. usable fuel capacity is 5.8 gallons, easy 275 mile range. Might be the best stock saddle in the motorcycle world, I had a 2200 mile WEEKEND on the stock KLR saddle. That is not a misprint, I rode from Kachemak bay to Prudhoe bay, across the state of Alaska AND BACK....., no tools deployed, Just Gasoline and drive chain lubricant. No issues, added 7 ounces of motor oil when I got home. Sorry to report, you are already getting "full power" that is all you get. maybe 35 horse to the ground, enough to get you there, not enough to hurry. What i mean by full power is I`m not going over 4000 rpm , until I break it in, this is not a fast bike(I ride my 929 RR for that ) I did not buy this bike for speed. |
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I almost pulled the trigger on a KLX 250S yesterday. I like it better because it would be my first bike and it is a lot lighter.
I ride a KingQuad 700 now, but I am tired of not being able to ride anywhere! |
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Someone want to point me in the direction of some aftermarket bags and brackets and such www.wolfmanluggage.com www.giantloopmoto.com thought i had another vendor bookmarked, but i can't find 'em now. |
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Tag!
Great thread! Thanks to all the guys who posted such good info. |
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Anyone have any input on the KLX250s series? nope, but there's a KLX subforum on KLR650.net. http://www.klr650.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=81 one for the Versys too. http://www.klr650.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=127 otherwise, check out Thumpers on ADV. http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=15 |
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tag. great info and phenomenal pics. when i lived in UT, i was constantly up in the mountains. man i miss it. UT is the perfect state to have a dual purpose bike. lots of great old home sites and other ruins.
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As an update, I saw a KLR 650 at school again the other week. Talked to the owner about it and sat atop the bike. My feet seemed to reach the pedals just fine. Made me want one even more! But I have been sucked into wanting to start another hobby (scuba and/or freediving)
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reaching the pegs doesn't usually seem to be the problem, but for shorter riders it's reaching the ground when on uneven terrain.
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KTM or Husky, only "TRUE" dual sports that do well/exceed off road.
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A couple on here have them. I like them and think they are great but they are too tall for me. I tried to sling my leg over a 2009 KLR at the dealer and couldnt get my leg over it. I was told a while back that there is an option available that lowers the seat height about 2 inches. I havent verified this but it sounds good if really available. |
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As an update, I saw a KLR 650 at school again the other week. Talked to the owner about it and sat atop the bike. My feet seemed to reach the pedals just fine. Made me want one even more! But I have been sucked into wanting to start another hobby (scuba and/or freediving) Now you are talking about higher insurance rates. Scuba is fun, but don't load up on equipment. Unless you need it don't buy a tank. Honestly you will get more mileage (pun intended) out of a bike. Plus you can use it almost every day. Scuba costs add up fast. The boat rental, tank rental, airline tickets to fly to new diving locations, etc. I would get the bike first and get used to it and then look into diving. YMMV |
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As an update, I saw a KLR 650 at school again the other week. Talked to the owner about it and sat atop the bike. My feet seemed to reach the pedals just fine. Made me want one even more! But I have been sucked into wanting to start another hobby (scuba and/or freediving) Now you are talking about higher insurance rates. Scuba is fun, but don't load up on equipment. Unless you need it don't buy a tank. Honestly you will get more mileage (pun intended) out of a bike. Plus you can use it almost every day. Scuba costs add up fast. The boat rental, tank rental, airline tickets to fly to new diving locations, etc. I would get the bike first and get used to it and then look into diving. YMMV Scuba is one of those things I grew up wanting to be able to do more than anything else. I don't plan on doing it nonstop, but free diving would be interesting if I can find places to do it. What is a 'KTM' bike? |
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KTM is a smaller, but well respected, manufacturer of very nice dirt-oriented bikes. When you think manufacturer, you think Honda, Kawa, Suzi, Yamaha. Then there are others like BMW, Buell, Aprillia etc. KTM doesn't have the market share of some of the bike metric names (Or HD) but they make nice bikes. KTM is the brand name. Remember Husqvarna dirts bikes????? They weren't really super well known either.
www.ktm.com |
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Road and gravel trails mainly. Nothing really rugged. You have no idea what you are talking about.... 002 by sky_soldier_82nd, on Flickr I can take a KLR anywhere I want. It could be be a pack mule or it can be a single track bike..... I have done it all on my KLR........ IDK what anyone says.......I have had mine for just about 2 and will have it for many more. You can find KLR parts everywhere because they have been around for something like 20 years with very little change. I have run it with KTM, Huskys and track bikes... Now I wouldn't take it on a Motocross track but just about anywhere else.... You can pick them up for little money and then put what you want into them. EDIT: Bikes like are KTM are sexy but they change them too much..... Think parts, parts, parts.... as a SHTF bike the KLR is a good choice.... WP 009 by sky_soldier_82nd, on Flickr 010 by sky_soldier_82nd, on Flickr 014 by sky_soldier_82nd, on Flickr |
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I've been riding Kawasaki bikes since the early 70s. I think very highly of them including the KLRs, however I went another direction, actually a Yamaha TW200.
If you accept all dual purpose bikes are a compromise street to trail, I rank the 650 KLR about a 60/40. The TW on the other hand is the opposite direction 40/60. For trips, I use my street bike which fair enough I can ride that monster bike on dirt roads. For trails, I wanted something lower and slower than the KLR. Depends on how you see you using the bike. Around your county or part of the state doing some trails here and there, its hard to beat a KLR. Cross country or somewhere that you have to haul that bikes butt over and over, its a compromise and not the best choice. The KLR is direct competition with the GS-650 specifically the Kandahar. I'd even go so far as to say a much bike for the money. Its not really a cruiser for hundreds of miles a day or a dump it over or flat foot it multiple times a day. It is exceptional in its niche. The trick is to know if its niche is what you want. I've owned more bikes than I can count but I can tell you this, you are always better off buying a bike that suits 90% of your riding than buying one that suits 10% of your riding. Honestly on my TW, I would have been just as happy with a dedicated dirt bike, but I really like that street capability even if it is really limited to two lane roads. 75 mpg is pretty nice too but I wouldn't consider taking that little bugger on some cross country adventure anymore than I would the KLR. After 40 years of riding, I know my butt ability. Tj |
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Funny/strange how this thread should rise to the top again. I have been dreaming all day about rebuilding my '05 into an ultimate post-apocalyptic ride. I'm between gun projects, and winter is upon us, so why not?
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Anyone ever seen one with a rifle rack or scabbard mounted? Seems like across the handlebars or horseback style are the only clear spots.
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Yea I have been thinking about that.... not sure what the best idea would be..... I have thought about some of the ATV style gun holders on the handle bars....
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also, I really like this extended range tank - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4749505679_3d30e98cea.jpg but I'm wondering how the fuel at the bottom corners is utilized. Presumably the fuel pickups extend to the bottom corner on each side, what happens when one side goes empty before the other, you just suck air? Already thinking of using some 1/4" pinstriping tape to mask a vertical fuel-level line, before painting. Been about 20yrs since I did any real riding, used to screw around with ATCs and dirtbikes quite a bit and my last bike was an '85 XL500R. A KLR650 seems like it would be a real time machine for me. And I'm really liking the idea of one as a general adventure bike but also as a SHTF scout / outrider idea. "super secret reserve" is to lean the bike WAY over to the right and get most of the furl in the wing on the left to slosh over to the petcock side. there is a mod to extend the pickup over to the left, but it doesn't seem very popular and IMHO, it's better to leave it as the secret reserve, just in case. it's a gravity fed carb, so any fas in the tank below the carb will never be usable. the factory tank, and the version of the IMS tank that uses the factory radiator guards don't have gas down this low, but they do NOT provide any radiator protection either. it's a compromise, but the protection is worth it. worst case, there's gas in the tank too light the whole thing on fire and signal for help! (ever watch "On Any Sunday"?) |
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I've been riding Kawasaki bikes since the early 70s. I think very highly of them including the KLRs, however I went another direction, actually a Yamaha TW200. the TW is a cool scoot, but IIRC, most states require 250cc or greater to be "freeway legal". |
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A couple on here have them. I like them and think they are great but they are too tall for me. I tried to sling my leg over a 2009 KLR at the dealer and couldnt get my leg over it. I was told a while back that there is an option available that lowers the seat height about 2 inches. I havent verified this but it sounds good if really available. there are lowering links in various lengths. IIRC, ther's even one with three settings so you can drop it 1", 2" or 3". the problem is that they change the mechanical advantage of the suspension on the shock and make what most riders find to be a weak shock even softer. they also reduce travel some. if you're going to use a lowering link, you may ffind you need to upgrade the spring. Progressive Suspension also sells a shorter shock to lower the bike, but their shocks have a mediocre reputaton for reliability. with quite a few reports of failures. Cogent Dynamics will build you a Moab shock in a shorter length if you want and it will be a much better shock than factory and more reliable than the Progressive. there are also "raising links" that will stiffen the rear suspension. depending on how much you want to lower the bike, reupholstering the seat using carpet padding is probably a better place to start before modifying the suspension. |
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Quoted: Here's a guy at THumper ~4yrs ago that used a cordura rifle scabbard from a horse gear catalog http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5948/trickdrz1mp7.jpg I'd rather mount it at a steeper angle and higher up and not wild about the cordura, unless heavily treated for water resistance. And thinking about it more it probably needs to be further back and a shallower angle, so as not to interferem much with a 2nd rider. Seems like an ATV scabbard should be an easy mod: |
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KTM or Husky, only "TRUE" dual sports that do well/exceed off road. no argument that those are nice, but they are also MUCH more expensive and from everything i've read at least the KTM is a maintenance hog with TWO oil filters that take a long time just to do an oil change. PITA when most riders change their oil every 2,000 miles. some of the KTMs seem to have very vulnerable fuel tanks, and most of them are fuel injected. not exactly great things for a bike on the SURVIVAL forum. it's a "race" bike, the bike is expensive, parts are expensive, etc. upgrade the suspension on the KLR, add some protection and the rally tank, upgrade the doohickey and perhaps a thermobob and ride it. it'll be far cheaper than a KTM, need less maintenance, be cheaper to maintain, etc. sure, "cheap" isn't the only criteria to look for, but if you want to be self sufficient when it comes to maintaining the bike, i'm not seeing KTM as the answer. |
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Anyone ever seen one with a rifle rack or scabbard mounted? Seems like across the handlebars or horseback style are the only clear spots. depends on WHAT rifle you're asking about mounting. shorter rifles will be easier. if it's an M4 or similar, something with a 16" barrel and collapsible or side folding stock just strap a Pelican 1700 to the rear rack with some Rok Straps http://www.casesbypelican.com/pelican_1700.htm 35.88"L x 13.88"W x 1.75"H Lid over 3.50"H Base 36" wide, so that's about as wide as the bars. http://www.rokstraps.com/ i wouldn't trust bungies to secure a rifle or any other cargo i wanted to really stay put. mounting a rifle on the bars of any motorcycle is begging for damage when you drop the bike. not a problem on an ATV tho. |
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[the problem is that they change the mechanical advantage of the suspension on the shock and make what most riders find to be a weak shock even softer. they also reduce travel some. if you're going to use a lowering link, you may ffind you need to upgrade the spring.
This especially follow suit if you are going to put bags on your bike and load it up. Lets not forget the gummy-bear front springs, either. A set of progressive springs would seriously give your front end a stiffie (as would nude photos of Megan Fox). Okay, with all this stiffness being aroused in the suspension, you'll discover right away how piss-poor your brakes are. You'll need to install a larger front rotor kit at the very least. I think the KLR was originally designed for every component and system to be the cheapest and most-economic for the manufacturer to produce, yet balance each other when used in conbination with each other. Change one, and you'll have to upgrade them all. Don't get me wrong, the KLR is a fantastic bike for the money, and with only a personal mod or two here and there, you can have a great ride for many years. Just be prepared that when you start diddling around with one thing, you may have to diddle them all to get what you want. By the time that's all said and done, you may as well buy a GS650, or a KTM, or maybe a Strom. |
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[the problem is that they change the mechanical advantage of the suspension on the shock and make what most riders find to be a weak shock even softer. they also reduce travel some. if you're going to use a lowering link, you may ffind you need to upgrade the spring.
This especially follow suit if you are going to put bags on your bike and load it up. Lets not forget the gummy-bear front springs, either. A set of progressive springs would seriously give your front end a stiffie (as would nude photos of Megan Fox). Okay, with all this stiffness being aroused in the suspension, you'll discover right away how piss-poor your brakes are. You'll need to install a larger front rotor kit at the very least. I think the KLR was originally designed for every component and system to be the cheapest and most-economic for the manufacturer to produce, yet balance each other when used in conbination with each other. Change one, and you'll have to upgrade them all. Don't get me wrong, the KLR is a fantastic bike for the money, and with only a personal mod or two here and there, you can have a great ride for many years. Just be prepared that when you start diddling around with one thing, you may have to diddle them all to get what you want. By the time that's all said and done, you may as well buy a GS650, or a KTM, or maybe a Strom. Look man you are missing the point... this is no ADV where we are discussing a sweet street or race bike. We are talking as stupid simple SHTF bike. All three of your listed bikes are expensive (except the strom) and complicated to work on. The bikes change alot and the parts post SHTF are going to be hard to come by. A KLR, DRZ, TW or the like are going to be easy to fix and replace parts. The KLR has been around for somthing like 200 years.... ( ok 20) but there are thousands of them around and parts are plentiful..... I am not saying the bikes you listed are no good...... I am just saying that they are not a good post SHTF bikes.. especially with the addation of FI on newer bikes. The KLR has a carb.... simple GAS and AIR is all you need.... The older ones are better too in my opinoin because they have two different charging systems.... One for the battery and one for the fire... the newer ones don't. You gotta have a good battery for the 08 and newer ones to run. The 07 and older are easy to push start..... Just my .02 worth...... WP |
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Here's a guy at THumper ~4yrs ago that used a cordura rifle scabbard from a horse gear catalog http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5948/trickdrz1mp7.jpg I'd rather mount it at a steeper angle and higher up and not wild about the cordura, unless heavily treated for water resistance. And thinking about it more it probably needs to be further back and a shallower angle, so as not to interferem much with a 2nd rider. Seems like an ATV scabbard should be an easy mod: http://www.atvscene.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/ac_gun-scabbard.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/3mb3pb3l55O15T65R5a7f11b52e7454f21f42.jpghttp://www.exploreproducts.com/media/maddog-atv-casecarrierproplus-a610-sm.jpg I wish they would make one of thses for an AR style rifle. That would be great.... |
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Here's a guy at THumper ~4yrs ago that used a cordura rifle scabbard from a horse gear catalog http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5948/trickdrz1mp7.jpg I'd rather mount it at a steeper angle and higher up and not wild about the cordura, unless heavily treated for water resistance. And thinking about it more it probably needs to be further back and a shallower angle, so as not to interferem much with a 2nd rider. Seems like an ATV scabbard should be an easy mod: http://www.atvscene.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/ac_gun-scabbard.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/3mb3pb3l55O15T65R5a7f11b52e7454f21f42.jpghttp://www.exploreproducts.com/media/maddog-atv-casecarrierproplus-a610-sm.jpg I use one of the older Kolpin gunscabards and mounts on My KLR .......works great......I'll post some pics later |
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Spotted on my local Craigslist: 2001 Military KLR650
It's cool, but it's not $6k cool |
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Another thought is you could do a pelican top case and put your taken down ar15 in there.
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Anyone ever seen one with a rifle rack or scabbard mounted? Seems like across the handlebars or horseback style are the only clear spots. depends on WHAT rifle you're asking about mounting. shorter rifles will be easier. if it's an M4 or similar, something with a 16" barrel and collapsible or side folding stock just strap a Pelican 1700 to the rear rack with some Rok Straps http://www.casesbypelican.com/pelican_1700.htm 35.88"L x 13.88"W x 1.75"H Lid over 3.50"H Base 36" wide, so that's about as wide as the bars. http://www.rokstraps.com/ i wouldn't trust bungies to secure a rifle or any other cargo i wanted to really stay put. mounting a rifle on the bars of any motorcycle is begging for damage when you drop the bike. not a problem on an ATV tho. |
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i've been thinking about getting one, my brother-in-law works at a bike shop and had a used one last week....
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Sorry to necropost in my topic here, but I have had some bills to pay recently, so gave up on my wants for one for a few months there sadly.
Looking again and joined KLR650.net and getting my hopes up. From what i can remember, someone mentioned a different bike that was a bit better, but i intend to do some hauling with this thing. Mainly trips. Not a daily driver type thing, but something for adventuring on the cheap. No plans to take it through hell, but being able to go off the roads and into some muck and such would be nice. Am I still best off with a KLR? What year would be a good one to go for anyway? I looked at the newest editions and they look snazzy, but looks aren't everything. |
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Don't apologize, I for one am glad to see this rise up again as I've finally got some money to buy my own. Have a few other things to take care of first, but I can finally start shopping my local region in earnest.
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yes. i have an 05. great for commuting and day trips. i've done a couple weekend rides but no major long distance runs. i'm tall so i like the height and i'm too old to go do serious off-roading. it does all right on trails.
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[the problem is that they change the mechanical advantage of the suspension on the shock and make what most riders find to be a weak shock even softer. they also reduce travel some. if you're going to use a lowering link, you may ffind you need to upgrade the spring.
This especially follow suit if you are going to put bags on your bike and load it up. Lets not forget the gummy-bear front springs, either. A set of progressive springs would seriously give your front end a stiffie (as would nude photos of Megan Fox). Okay, with all this stiffness being aroused in the suspension, you'll discover right away how piss-poor your brakes are. You'll need to install a larger front rotor kit at the very least. I think the KLR was originally designed for every component and system to be the cheapest and most-economic for the manufacturer to produce, yet balance each other when used in conbination with each other. Change one, and you'll have to upgrade them all. Don't get me wrong, the KLR is a fantastic bike for the money, and with only a personal mod or two here and there, you can have a great ride for many years. Just be prepared that when you start diddling around with one thing, you may have to diddle them all to get what you want. By the time that's all said and done, you may as well buy a GS650, or a KTM, or maybe a Strom. no argument on the crappy stock front springs. Progressive Suspension springs make it stiffer, but don't do anything for the valving. with the Ricor Intiminators in the front and stock springs i can hit an 8" curb at 40mph and just sail over it. no bouncing offthe bike, no tweaking the rim. no argument on upgrading the front rotor and stainless line. and there's a new bracket to put the dual pot caliper from the '07+ bikes on the early bikes in the works. i haven't checked to see if it's available yet. i did a 650 fork swap onto my 250 and the small rotor and weak springs from the 650 seem just right for the suspension and oversized for the rotor on the smaller, lighter bike. of course, upgrading the front suspension (and brakes) leads to upgrading the rear suspension. i've got the mil-spec rear shock on the 650, and a custom Moab 250 from Moto CD on the 250. Ricor makes a rear shock now too. and there's a few guys who will respring and revalve the stock rear shock. it's better than factory but might not be better than a new drop in unit complete. just cheaper. the rear shock from Progressive Suspension doesn't seem to have a very good track record. i've seen more than a few reports of failures. |
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Sorry to necropost in my topic here, but I have had some bills to pay recently, so gave up on my wants for one for a few months there sadly. Looking again and joined KLR650.net and getting my hopes up. From what i can remember, someone mentioned a different bike that was a bit better, but i intend to do some hauling with this thing. Mainly trips. Not a daily driver type thing, but something for adventuring on the cheap. No plans to take it through hell, but being able to go off the roads and into some muck and such would be nice. Am I still best off with a KLR? What year would be a good one to go for anyway? I looked at the newest editions and they look snazzy, but looks aren't everything. anything from '87 to '07 with a slight preference for '97 to '07 because they have a few upgrades. an older bike in good condition would still be a candidate, but may need more work to get it ready. rubber parts like brake lines and fork boots get old and would probably be a very good idea to replace them with aftermarket items. tanks can get rusty, again, aftermarket IMS tanks don't rust and give you more fuel and radiator protection. check the date code on the tires. even if they don't look worn, they can be old which will mean they'll be harder and not stick so well on the road. replace any tires over about 5 years old. |
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This pic posted earlier in the topic... this is kind of like what I would envision myself riding on. They handle well in areas like this? The property where i drive is mostly grassy hills that aren't too rugged, just a bit steep at times. Another thing, could this handle about 25-50 lbs of spare gear on it? I'll weigh 190 by the time i get one, so I don't know how that'll factor in. no problem with that kind of terrain, and some people take them into a LOT worse places! tire choice, tire pressure, and rider skill all have an affect, and suspension upgrades don't hurt. (well, they may hurt your wallet a little) the "official" rating for the rear rack is #15 or so, but almost everyone exceeds that, some by great margins. upgrade the subframe bolts and you should be good to go. i prefer the "three bolt" kit which requires you to drill thru the frame. you'll find that the stock springs are too weak. aftermarket front springs from Progressive Suspension are about $75 and help geatly. going with the Ricor Intiminators is an even better solution but those are a little more expensive, but sooo worth it. |
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I own two KLR 650s.. a 2001 that I paid $1800 for with 3500 miles on it and a 2008 that I paid $3800 for with 2900 miles on it.
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I had one, but I think a quad would be better for shtf. Riding a quad would be easier if you've been injured, if you have to carry anything a quad would be easier. First there where two wheels, then three, and then four because that's worked best.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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being street legal is one of the best things about some of these dirtbikes. I figure I may as well run a search on classes and get signed up just because I want something that can handle very mild trails but also be street legal. Going riding on the quad with some other quads and street legal dirtbikes has shown me time and time again that a street legal dirtbike has legal options in everyday riding I might not have on my quad. For whatever reason I seem to have issues every time I go riding on my quad with someone how leaving the map we have for the area. I don't care if I bring extra maps, I am always off the edge and it is annoying as heck to let the street legal guys go check out the pavement we run across and wonder if I might need to cruise my quad on the pavement if that is how we choose to go. Overall I never feel lost. State of mind and fuel capacity are what keep me from feeling lost. But when folks want to get home due to other commitments and what not my ability to haul extra fuel and backtrack can be sidetracked by them wanting to get home sooner. Plus I have more time to mess around with stuff now and my belt gets a new hole in it every 2 to 3 weeks now. At first it got a couple holes real quickly but I don't see a point in buying a new belt when this one has a long ways to go. Quads have their good points. I do really like my quad. But I have learned to recognize the options that a license plate and street legal status offer. |
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wow, those 250s lok like a fun project to work on.
i got my 250 CHEAP from CL. forks were bent, factory carb had been replaced with some mystery POS from some chinese junk, the dash, headlight, fairing, blinkers and instruments were gone, airbox was gone, most of the plastics were gone, but it ran and had a clean title. basically the DPO had tried to turn it into a MX bike and in doing that, had thrown away a bunch of parts that would have been very expensive if not for ebay. i've swapped to 650 forks, rotor and caliper, replaced most of the parts, had the whole thing torn apart, ground off the brackets for the emissions junk, replaced the shock with a custom one to match the increased travel on the new forks, finally found a new carb and airbox, replaced almost all of the missing parts added a few other upgrades including an aftermarket skid plate, pulled the rear suspension apart and lubed everything, new tires, DR650 pegs. adjusted the valves. needs the new carb installed, a new chain slider on the swingarm and the seat needs to be reupholstered. will probably get an IMS tank for it. hope to get it all together in a few months as the weather warms up and gives me more time to work out in the garage. need to get a bypass thermostat upgrade too, then get the thing insured and registered. whups, forgot i still need to replace the wiring harness because the old one had the ignition switch chopped out of it. not planning on a lot of highway miles for it, but should be fun for around town and local trails. it's #100 lighter than the 650. it's paid for and should be about $50 per year for insurance and another $50 for registration. being street legal is something that makes a dual sport bike usable all the time, at least depending on the weather in your area. you can get a license plate on a quad in AZ, but i don't think you can do that anywhere else. |
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I am seriously considering buying a dual sport. I have only rode a few motorcycles in my life and want a very mild bike to start out with. It will never see rugged terrain, but occasionally some rough ground.
I weigh 275 so it has to be able to drag me around and still have torque to spare. It will never need to go real fast. I had looked at the Kawasaki 650, but I would love to get some recommendations from the folks here. This machine would be for running around the farm for keeping an eye on things and a fuel efficient way to get to the neighbors. |
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