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Link Posted: 3/18/2010 12:01:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Disassembly:

Here's the bottom of the unit:







There are four screws you can see.  Only removing these four won't open up the unit.








There are actually four more screws under the rubber feet.







You must remove all eight screws to remove the bottom panel:








And there is it.  This is a surprisingly simple device.  The receiver board is marked... the logic board is the rest of it.








Incidentally, this unit comes with a 9VDC power supply... but runs nicely on 12VDC as well.  Using a 12V PSU should allow a much greater selection of accessories for those C-Relays:








To be continued...
Link Posted: 3/19/2010 6:11:39 AM EDT
[#2]
thanks a lot. this is very entertaining!
Link Posted: 3/19/2010 9:32:39 AM EDT
[#3]
I don't know if these would be any help, but they are regarded as pretty reliable as a camera flash trigger.

CTR-301

ETA, I was excited thinking that the recievers were fairly inexpensive, but I am assuming you would need the xmitter. Oh well.
Link Posted: 3/19/2010 6:16:05 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I don't know if these would be any help, but they are regarded as pretty reliable as a camera flash trigger.

CTR-301

ETA, I was excited thinking that the recievers were fairly inexpensive, but I am assuming you would need the xmitter. Oh well.


Any-Cal, these come w/ the Rx and Tx and you have a good idea. They could be useful for many things:

"Package Included:"

1 x Receiver
1 x Transmitter
1 x PC Sync Cable
1 x CR2 battery
 
 


Link Posted: 3/19/2010 11:37:37 PM EDT
[#5]
I know they come with both, but you can buy the receivers alone for like $19. I just like to save money. That company does have a history of working with people though, so if the xmitter would work, they would probably list and sell them seperately.
Link Posted: 3/26/2010 2:16:16 PM EDT
[#6]
Starting to play with some breadboard.  Bought some regular, cheapo, Ebay dip-switches.  Looks like they will handle 12VDC:

Link Posted: 3/26/2010 4:17:14 PM EDT
[#7]
The standard motion sensor actually has some options.  You can connect a NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed) sensor to the screw-down terminals in the lower left.  The circled dip-switch allows you to choose which one to set as active.








In this case, we're using a photocell as the switch.  








Here's the result:



Link Posted: 4/9/2010 7:54:46 AM EDT
[#8]
Another sensor option... mercury tilt-switches:

Link Posted: 4/11/2010 7:00:55 PM EDT
[#9]
Here is the mercury tilt-switch installed in place of the original vibration sensor.  Now it only triggers if tilted at the correct angle:








Like so:

Link Posted: 4/14/2010 6:59:02 AM EDT
[#10]
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