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Link Posted: 10/21/2017 3:30:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 10/21/2017 3:42:56 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:


Photos are loading.

Got up at 4 yesterday, went to bed at 4 this morning.  Slept until twelve-freaking-thirty PM today  without waking up.

Guess I needed it.
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Link Posted: 10/22/2017 2:20:56 AM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 3:42:54 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
You guys are rough on the Kitty.
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phrasing!


Link Posted: 10/22/2017 7:39:42 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
You guys are rough on the Kitty.
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pouring concrete is stressful, hard work and at the end of the day you are dead tired on your feet.

we got your back here, KwS!
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 2:08:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 3:07:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 7:05:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 7:40:42 PM EDT
[#9]
KwS

Been following with interest since the thread started.  

I saw a lot of concrete work when I worked in the steel mill.  

You were/are Blessed with an excellent crew.

And yes, very difficult to get my kid's generation to do honest work at anything.  

Apparently the Gov't has some kind of tree where all they wish for falls off of and their iPhone directs them to where they are to find it...
Link Posted: 10/22/2017 9:39:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:33:44 AM EDT
[#11]
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I AM blessed with this crew!

I really hope I have not pestered them to the point they won't want to work for me in future.

I'm rehabbing a home in the big town nearest me, and there is a lot of stone/masonry work.  For one thing, I need somebody to cut a big hole in the back of a stone house, to install french doors with sidelights.

I'm hoping these guys will be the ones.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
KwS

Been following with interest since the thread started.  

I saw a lot of concrete work when I worked in the steel mill.  

You were/are Blessed with an excellent crew.

And yes, very difficult to get my kid's generation to do honest work at anything.  

Apparently the Gov't has some kind of tree where all they wish for falls off of and their iPhone directs them to where they are to find it...
I AM blessed with this crew!

I really hope I have not pestered them to the point they won't want to work for me in future.

I'm rehabbing a home in the big town nearest me, and there is a lot of stone/masonry work.  For one thing, I need somebody to cut a big hole in the back of a stone house, to install french doors with sidelights.

I'm hoping these guys will be the ones.
You have a good crew that knows what they are doing & take pride in their work.

My guess is you have earned their respect.
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 1:22:58 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 2:04:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 2:24:19 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:


I don't know about that, but I want to be an easy customer.  

Not one they dread working for.
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I have a standing policy in my company.

For the folks like yourself that are eager to learn, don't mind getting dirty, and really want to further their knowledge we are happy to help.

If it significantly hinders our progress, we have to either get paid for the slowdown or stop teaching.

I highly vet my prospects on the phone , with less than 1/2 making it past 5 minutes.

If for some reason my vetting fails, and I get a paint in the ass know-it-all they are told to either find someone else or get the fuck off my job.

So far they have shut up and left us alone to do our jobs and then give us hugs and thanks at the end of the job.

Had a job Friday where the inspector arrived at the job for the final inspection and the tenant happened to be there.

The inspector then proceeded to spend 15 minutes telling the tenant how awesome we were and how he was lucky he made it through my vetting process.  

It was awesome.
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 2:44:45 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 3:23:22 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 6:00:35 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 7:20:34 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 7:27:53 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
So I set a level on this concrete.  

The bubble never moved.

But the water knows.  

http://www.fototime.com/B81AC6FC67EC5F5/standard.jpg
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what is that blue pipe sticking out?  









Link Posted: 10/23/2017 7:49:03 PM EDT
[#20]
1- What do you guys use as sill gasket, if you use it, and do you flash with metal also between the concrete and the treated wood, or do you trust the new sill gasket materials?

http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/builders/products/foamsealr.aspx
http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/assets/0/188/48a3e065-8ac3-4af8-8219-c752ec0b8d3b.pdf

this stuff is available at HD etc in two different widths, for 3-1/2" and 5-1/2" sill plates.

2-What are your favorite ways to anchor to a pad?

J-bolts placed in the flatwork or block.  it looks late for that, so you will need to use wedge anchors from Redhead, Hilti, or similar.
pay attention to the minimum concrete cure time spec'd by the fastener manufacturer; some anchor types are spec'd at 28 days.

note:
you may want to consider a composite/laminate 2x6 sill plate.  they are completely impervious to moisture and insects.

https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/woodproducts/engineered-lumber/timberstrand-lsl/timberstrand-lsl-framing-lumber/timberstrand-lsl-sill-plates/

^^^ i suggest this because your slab is quite close to grade, and, see this:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Siding-foundation-too-close-to-ground-/139-2041009/#i68607209


ar-jedi





Link Posted: 10/23/2017 7:50:22 PM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 7:58:56 PM EDT
[#22]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:08:50 PM EDT
[#23]
do you see my pictures above?  that is the "pink stuff" sill plate barrier, and the composite sill plate in glorious action.  my workshop is holding up 100%, but it's too full!

picture below from
https://www.ar15.com/forums/outdoors/Show-me-what-you-used-your-tractor-for-today-pic-thread-/19-681719/&page=39#i11818510

ar-jedi

Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:12:04 PM EDT
[#24]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:13:58 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:
I think the manufactured sill might be well worth the investment on that high side, if nowhere else.  
Have you used that?  I don't see it on your block building, but maybe it's there.
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Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:15:09 PM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:39:09 PM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:44:11 PM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:
Thank you.


I'm really pleased with it so far.

Interesting part is that there's some water standing on it today, and most of the standing water is in the spot where Vic kept saying the concrete was drying more slowly.  Ironically it was the first corner that was poured, and the last to dry out enough to power trowel.

I think as he ran over it with the power trowel, decided it needed more time and quit to let it dry, a tiny bit of concrete was removed, thus creating a "low spot" in that area.    

Speaks to how flat the whole thing is that the water doesn't run off.  It just sits there  here and there on the pad.  Only one sizeable puddle. and it's maybe 1/32" deep.  MAYBE 1/16, but I doubt it.
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Quoted:
Slab looks great, good luck going forward.
Thank you.


I'm really pleased with it so far.

Interesting part is that there's some water standing on it today, and most of the standing water is in the spot where Vic kept saying the concrete was drying more slowly.  Ironically it was the first corner that was poured, and the last to dry out enough to power trowel.

I think as he ran over it with the power trowel, decided it needed more time and quit to let it dry, a tiny bit of concrete was removed, thus creating a "low spot" in that area.    

Speaks to how flat the whole thing is that the water doesn't run off.  It just sits there  here and there on the pad.  Only one sizeable puddle. and it's maybe 1/32" deep.  MAYBE 1/16, but I doubt it.
Just be careful walking on wet power troweled concrete.  

It can be very slippery depending on how much they troweled it.

Instead of sill plate I use 2 very heavy beads of PL premium construction adhesive.

For anchors it just depends on the situation.

Red heads, Titen HD anchors & hilti epoxy are our big 3 goto's.
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:54:06 PM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 8:58:17 PM EDT
[#30]


...

i received an IM asking about the black material placed against the foundation blocks in the photo above.

the picture above is just hours before the slab was poured.

first, a recap:
in a slab-and-foundation system, it is often desirable that the slab and foundation are *not* mechanically coupled.
the generic term for this is a "floating slab", although this is a very broad definition.  
the foundation (specifically, the stem walls) supports the structure, and the slab is poured "inside the walls".
keep in mind that the floating slab can be poured at any time which is convenient, as it is not part of the structural support.
as you can see from the picture above, the structure is fully framed already -- and in fact the roofing shingles are on.

at the interface between the floating slab from the stem walls is expansion joint material; this semi-compliant material allows for some relative movement between the floating slab and the stem walls.  
the movement can be the result of settling or seasonal variations.   the expansion joint material is what you see tacked to the foundation wall block.

ps
if you note very carefully in the pictures above and below, you will notice that the expansion joint material has been tacked to the block wall at a very shallow angle (higher at the back, lower at the front).
this is because the floating slab will be poured at a very slight pitch, as is the norm for a garage, shop, or shed.  
this approach promotes self-draining of any water that gets into the structure through the large vehicle doorway(s).
here in these northern parts, returning from a winter outing means there will be all sorts of slush and whatnot on the car/tractor.
in the slightly higher temperature of the garage, the snow/ice/mush mix will melt off and drain towards the doorway.

ar-jedi

example material:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-4-in-x-5-ft-Expansion-Joint-65470012/302134649

note below where it says "expansion joint":



timeline:





Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:02:12 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
Okay so your method was:

from top to bottom:
Studs
Regular sill plate (treated I'm guessing)
Composite sill plate
Pink Stuff
Block/concrete

Is that right?
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see above.  and below.

Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:12:57 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:20:14 PM EDT
[#33]
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Quoted:
that's a really cool view of the shop I like so much.

Okay so, I ripped off your photo.  Do I have this right?

http://www.fototime.com/3F988BDF6D9F0EB/standard.jpg
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are we in the same country?  LoL

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sill_plate
Stick framing
In modern, wood construction sills usually come in sizes of 2×4, 2×6, 2×8, and 2×10. In stick framing, the sill is made of treated lumber and is anchored to the foundation wall, often with J-bolts to keep the building from coming off the foundation during a severe storm or earthquake. Building codes require that the bottom of the sill plate be kept 6 to 8 inches above the finished grade. This is a building code requirement to hinder termites and prevent the sill plate from rotting.







i'll be right back...
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:20:57 PM EDT
[#34]
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Quoted:
I see a LOT of personal choice in this...

Why do you choose the construction adhesive, and by "very heavy beads" what exactly do you mean?  Are you talking 1/2" beads?  

Any input or thought on WHY you choose this would be of help.

All of you have years of experience that I do not have.  I appreciate all input.
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Quoted:

<snip>
Instead of sill plate I use 2 very heavy beads of PL premium construction adhesive.

<snip>
.
I see a LOT of personal choice in this...

Why do you choose the construction adhesive, and by "very heavy beads" what exactly do you mean?  Are you talking 1/2" beads?  

Any input or thought on WHY you choose this would be of help.

All of you have years of experience that I do not have.  I appreciate all input.
heavy bead varies depending on how much of a gap there is on test fitting the sill.

I haven't seen perfectly flat concrete , nor PT plate, so there are always voids between under the foam.

Add in the fact you only space bolts every 4-6' where the sill is sucked down tight, I just never liked foam.

I've been using PL premium polyurethane adhesive for a long long time with no failures and it retains a little flexibility

It's expensive but doesn't smell like all the others I have tried and will stick to anything, even frozen lumber.
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:30:11 PM EDT
[#35]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:37:15 PM EDT
[#37]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 9:46:49 PM EDT
[#38]
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Quoted:
I can see, from the side, that it looks like something unnatural.  
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it looks/feels like LVL or any other dense wood-product made with strand and chips and glue and a fucking 300 ton press.  

the black markings on top are from the manufacturer, type/grade/etc.  
the markings on top are dull/blurred now, and obscured by studs/etc, or i would tell you exactly who made that sill plate.

ar-jedi

ps cuts with regular circular saw, bores with regular drill bits, etc

Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:08:14 PM EDT
[#40]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:14:23 PM EDT
[#41]
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Quoted:
You used it for your whole sill, so you believe in it.

I think, given how much backfill I will have even on the "low" sides of my building, that this will make sense for me.

I shall now disappear to find this product.
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Quoted:

it looks/feels like LVL or any other dense wood-product made with strand and chips and glue and a fucking 300 ton press.  

the black markings on top are from the manufacturer, type/grade/etc.  
the markings on top are dull/blurred now, and obscured by studs/etc, or i would tell you exactly who made that sill plate.

ar-jedi

ps cuts with regular circular saw, bores with regular drill bits, etc

http://www.interstatelumber.com/assets/img/products/framing-LSLpic3.jpg
You used it for your whole sill, so you believe in it.

I think, given how much backfill I will have even on the "low" sides of my building, that this will make sense for me.

I shall now disappear to find this product.
Look up Weyerhaeuser timber strand lsl sill plate
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:17:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:24:21 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:33:05 PM EDT
[#44]
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Quoted:
Interesting.  Looks like I'll have to drive to Nashville to get that exact product, but I'll do some more searching.  Might be there is a "secondary" supply source up here.
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Quoted:


Look up Weyerhaeuser timber strand lsl sill plate
Interesting.  Looks like I'll have to drive to Nashville to get that exact product, but I'll do some more searching.  Might be there is a "secondary" supply source up here.
Just call your local lumberyard. They should have access.

On my jobs, I email what I need to 2 or 3 suppliers with all recipients where they can see who's bidding
That's the way I would get pricing on your framing package.
Link Posted: 10/23/2017 10:37:32 PM EDT
[#45]
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Quoted:
Guessing you used this on your own house, so....

How long do you believe it will maintain flexibility?

I know you probably can't say, and let's get real here...I'm looking at a thin piece of Pink Panther foam as opposed to something more substantial, and I have no idea what flexes and what does not.

I like Ar-jedi's manufactured sill, for my application which is too close to grade.

I am used to metal flashing between the concrete and sill, so anything is better, but not loving the thin pink foam if I could do better.

Am interested in all of it.  Seems I cannot combine it.  Not realistically, anyhow.
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Quoted:


heavy bead varies depending on how much of a gap there is on test fitting the sill.

I haven't seen perfectly flat concrete , nor PT plate, so there are always voids between under the foam.

Add in the fact you only space bolts every 4-6' where the sill is sucked down tight, I just never liked foam.

I've been using PL premium polyurethane adhesive for a long long time with no failures and it retains a little flexibility

It's expensive but doesn't smell like all the others I have tried and will stick to anything, even frozen lumber.
Guessing you used this on your own house, so....

How long do you believe it will maintain flexibility?

I know you probably can't say, and let's get real here...I'm looking at a thin piece of Pink Panther foam as opposed to something more substantial, and I have no idea what flexes and what does not.

I like Ar-jedi's manufactured sill, for my application which is too close to grade.

I am used to metal flashing between the concrete and sill, so anything is better, but not loving the thin pink foam if I could do better.

Am interested in all of it.  Seems I cannot combine it.  Not realistically, anyhow.
Polyurethane adhesive should remain flexible for a very long time.

Another option

Rubber sill seal
Link Posted: 10/24/2017 1:11:16 AM EDT
[#46]
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Quoted:
Look up Weyerhaeuser timber strand lsl sill plate
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no one has posted the link to the Weyerhaeuser page for this product 3 times in this thread on this page.  


ar-jedi
Link Posted: 10/24/2017 1:24:22 AM EDT
[#47]
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Quoted:
I am used to metal flashing between the concrete and sill, so anything is better, but not loving the thin pink foam if I could do better.
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you still need metal flashing, which prevents any water coming down the exterior wall from getting under/behind the sheathing.

ar-jedi

Link Posted: 10/24/2017 1:46:46 AM EDT
[#48]
Hope you and your kitty are feeling better...   Thought you would take some R&R so I decided to not pester you for a few days.  Here you're back in action posting pics with a play by play report.

The slab, looks great!

I don't know how long it takes for the sill foam to deteriorate, if ever.  I can tell you that I have gone back to projects that we built ten or more years prior to install a new double door or to add side-lites etc..  The foam was still flexible, not brittle or dust, I like it.  I understand HandyDave's comment about wanting a consistently straight bearing point.  If it was a CMU wall I would deal with it with a grinder at the high points..  For a slab, I would smooth out the excessively low points with a skim coat of leveling compound.  At some point, about fifteen years ago, I got away from using a metal termite shield at the sill transition.  I went to vinyl brick flashing on top of the CMU or slab ( for a few reasons )  with the sill foam above that and sill plate on top of that.  I like the idea of the LSL mentioned above, treated pine is a moisture sponge if exposed to moisture.  Depending on the situation, I would extend the vinyl brick flashing beyond the exterior of the " foundation" wall.  That did two things, a moisture contact barrier between the face of the CMU, wood siding and also a paint shield for the painters.  When the project is complete, if any excess vinyl is visible, we would cut the excess with a knife.

If you take a look at AR-Jedi's pics of his garage/shop build, note how the CMU sucks water like a sponge.  I know some of his pics are "during construction" but it's a good example of how CMU can collect and transfer moisture.  Regardless of means and methods, we want avoid that at completion of the project, he did.

Regarding the framed wall and the wall sheathing transition...  If you take a look at the pic that AR-Jedi posted from Wiki, that was for the foam and to illustrate that transition, not the sill plate position and sheathing position..  It disturbs me when other builders don't overlap the wall sheathing to the sill plate. What's the point of having structural grade plywood and anchor bolts if we don't don't attach it to the sill plate that is intended to hold the structure to the foundation down in a high wind / sysmic situation?  I think it's in your best interest to place the sill plate and wall framing flush to the exterior of foundation wall with the wall sheathing projecting beyond the face of the foundation wall.  See AR-Jedi's shop pics, the sill plate is flush to the exterior of the CMU with the plywood sheathing beyond the face of CMU, that's a nice detail, it allows for some air circulation if you're near dirt grade.  AR-Jedi added a stone veneer so he added a metal transition flashing to force any water that may collect behind the siding to the exterior face of his stone veneer.
Link Posted: 10/24/2017 7:00:42 AM EDT
[#49]
The pink foam comes on a roll and in various widths to match your sill plate.

It serves two main purposes: as a gasket to minimize air penetration and as a impermeable barrier to prevent moisture wicking from the slab/cmu.

The latter is more critical than the former.

Installed, its shielded from UV and should last as long as required. 
Link Posted: 10/24/2017 8:59:02 AM EDT
[#50]
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