User Panel
That person doesn't warrant any further consideration.
We test fire and zero every upper/gun that goes out the door. If you have a problem with our products send it back and we will repair/replace/refund as needed. |
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We are living in a Tom Clancy novel
Over 50 and reputed to be a formidable brigand https://hr1871.com/ |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By Droodog: this school guy said "After the video was over I did a tear down of the upper receiver. The barrel nut was installed with about 300 ft lb of force. The index pin had bent slightly from the excessive torque and the notch in the upper receiver had a gouge in it from the index pin. I replaced the index pin, removed the barrel nut, lubricated the threads with aeroshell 64, bedded the barrel, used the proper jig and torque value and the FSB and barrel extension now line up properly." I am not a professional , I build my own because I live in a shitty state and have to hoop jump stupid laws and I think the most I ever torqued was like 55 or 60 ... I can't see your team cranking 300ft lbs on a retro carbine! ... something doesn't seem right ... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Droodog: Originally Posted By mike_nds: Originally Posted By Minuteman76: Just so the right people are aware. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhSsaN4EJi4 I watched it. This is the same guy that broke some of our FC parts and claimed it was during normal use. When people really looked at the pictures he posted and started calling him out he back pedaled, blocked people, and eventually deleted all the pics and thread. He trolls for clicks and it’s pathetic. As I’ve stated many times before: We purposely time the front sight post on an A1 slightly to the 1 o'clock so that the aperture is centered in the upper when zeroed. All the USGI barrels I’ve owned were like this. If it's perfectly 12 o'clock TDC it will shoot 6"+ to the right and require the aperture to be way left. We have assembled and zeroed thousands of uppers this way and it works. this school guy said "After the video was over I did a tear down of the upper receiver. The barrel nut was installed with about 300 ft lb of force. The index pin had bent slightly from the excessive torque and the notch in the upper receiver had a gouge in it from the index pin. I replaced the index pin, removed the barrel nut, lubricated the threads with aeroshell 64, bedded the barrel, used the proper jig and torque value and the FSB and barrel extension now line up properly." I am not a professional , I build my own because I live in a shitty state and have to hoop jump stupid laws and I think the most I ever torqued was like 55 or 60 ... I can't see your team cranking 300ft lbs on a retro carbine! ... something doesn't seem right ... I have 2-12.7" uppers with clocked sights. I pulled them down to check for this kind of issue and the barrel nut was on par with where it needed to be. Granted I don't have a bunch of fancy gauges other than my right eye. I usually pull my left shoe off to make sure I am looking at things level. Either way the problem I have with the sights being off is sure I can sight it in but when you attach a gooseneck or other carry handle mount you cannot see the front sight post. |
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Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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From what I understand, the hole on the bottom front of the A1 style pistol grip is for a sling swivel. Does anyone know what type of sling swivel I'd need to get if I wanted to put it on an A1-type pistol grip?
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Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
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Originally Posted By CFletch: From what I understand, the hole on the bottom front of the A1 style pistol grip is for a sling swivel. Does anyone know what type of sling swivel I'd need to get if I wanted to put it on an A1-type pistol grip? View Quote think the original armalite had the swivel and they abandoned the idea for a stock swivel and never bothered to change the grip design. I am sure you can mod an old swivel to fit |
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So Mote It Be
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Before I submit my Form 1. I wanted to see what people put down for the M16 A2 model for the COTS. From the drop down there is an M16 A2 and an M16A2. The receiver has them separated but wasn't sure which to pick.
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: Before I submit my Form 1. I wanted to see what people put down for the M16 A2 model for the COTS. From the drop down there is an M16 A2 and an M16A2. The receiver has them separated but wasn't sure which to pick. View Quote I have been successful with an A2 and an A1 with no space. |
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Originally Posted By seand1111: I have been successful with an A2 and an A1 with no space. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By seand1111: Originally Posted By metalsaber: Before I submit my Form 1. I wanted to see what people put down for the M16 A2 model for the COTS. From the drop down there is an M16 A2 and an M16A2. The receiver has them separated but wasn't sure which to pick. I have been successful with an A2 and an A1 with no space. |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By CFletch: From what I understand, the hole on the bottom front of the A1 style pistol grip is for a sling swivel. Does anyone know what type of sling swivel I'd need to get if I wanted to put it on an A1-type pistol grip? View Quote Check this thread showing prototype Armalite with grip swivel. You can buy any generic rifle swivel loop and bend it fit 1 1/4 width sling. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Complete-ArmaLite-AR-15-Prototype-Guide/123-743191/ |
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I don't know where to go, or what to call my own
NC, USA
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Originally Posted By mlin: Check this thread showing prototype Armalite with grip swivel. You can buy any generic rifle swivel loop and bend it fit 1 1/4 width sling. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Complete-ArmaLite-AR-15-Prototype-Guide/123-743191/ View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mlin: Originally Posted By CFletch: From what I understand, the hole on the bottom front of the A1 style pistol grip is for a sling swivel. Does anyone know what type of sling swivel I'd need to get if I wanted to put it on an A1-type pistol grip? Check this thread showing prototype Armalite with grip swivel. You can buy any generic rifle swivel loop and bend it fit 1 1/4 width sling. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Complete-ArmaLite-AR-15-Prototype-Guide/123-743191/ This place has them listed. You can see that the logo and name are at the top of the grip. https://everygunpart.com/oem/aramlite-ar-pistol-grip-with-sling-keeper-armalite-parts-bmw9bx-p7oq-00.html |
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The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
KY, USA
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It’s been awhile since I asked, so…
WEN HAT? |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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I dunno about the H&R crew, as I've just gotten lowers and barrels and parts, not a complete upper, but some of the regular PSA uppers I've had have been torqued ridiculously. No idea how much but a couple that I've pulled barrels on were absurdly hard to remove.
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If we can’t get a barrel nut to time inside the acceptable torque range we loosen it and install a timing shim.
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We are living in a Tom Clancy novel
Over 50 and reputed to be a formidable brigand https://hr1871.com/ |
Originally Posted By mike_nds: If we can’t get a barrel nut to time inside the acceptable torque range we loosen it and install a timing shim. View Quote It’s good to hear that your group does. Because your counterparts at PSA, they have a few gorillas working over there. I have had to heat two of theirs and cut another to get them off. |
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Originally Posted By mike_nds: If we can’t get a barrel nut to time inside the acceptable torque range we loosen it and install a timing shim. View Quote A buddy and I had to torque one right up to 80 ft/pounds the other day. Never had to do that before. If it’s not too badly off topic, what are timing shims, and where do I get them? Might not be a bad idea to have one lying around in case something similar happens again but goes past 80… |
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Originally Posted By Akin: A buddy and I had to torque one right up to 80 ft/pounds the other day. Never had to do that before. If it’s not too badly off topic, what are timing shims, and where do I get them? Might not be a bad idea to have one lying around in case something similar happens again but goes past 80… View Quote Barrel shims and/or barrel nut shims are the key words you seek for google. Lots of places sell them… even Amazon |
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I don’t know if it’s been posted, but is the shotgun bayonet lug adapter going to be released again?
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Originally Posted By tstetz: Awesome! I never knew about timing shims until now either. Added to my parts list! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tstetz: Originally Posted By mike_nds: If we can’t get a barrel nut to time inside the acceptable torque range we loosen it and install a timing shim. Awesome! I never knew about timing shims until now either. Added to my parts list! when you buy rails that require timing the barrel nut, the rail mfr usually includes these shims. after a while, you've accumulated a lifetime supply from left-overs. I guess you're not there yet. |
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Hey quick question, is there a timeframe on when we can expect M16A1 grey 1:7 uppers to come back in stock?
I’ve been looking for a few weeks now and I was gonna buy a blem so I could finish my build before heading back to school but someone bought it :/ Thanks again |
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Originally Posted By rpoL98: when you buy rails that require timing the barrel nut, the rail mfr usually includes these shims. after a while, you've accumulated a lifetime supply from left-overs. I guess you're not there yet. View Quote Nope, apparently not. I don't think any of my rails came with those. |
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Originally Posted By tstetz: Nope, apparently not. I don't think any of my rails came with those. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tstetz: Originally Posted By rpoL98: when you buy rails that require timing the barrel nut, the rail mfr usually includes these shims. after a while, you've accumulated a lifetime supply from left-overs. I guess you're not there yet. Nope, apparently not. I don't think any of my rails came with those. |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: Before I submit my Form 1. I wanted to see what people put down for the M16 A2 model for the COTS. From the drop down there is an M16 A2 and an M16A2. The receiver has them separated but wasn't sure which to pick. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: Yeah I've bought a ton of different rails over the years and never got any barrel timing shims. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By metalsaber: Originally Posted By tstetz: Originally Posted By rpoL98: when you buy rails that require timing the barrel nut, the rail mfr usually includes these shims. after a while, you've accumulated a lifetime supply from left-overs. I guess you're not there yet. Nope, apparently not. I don't think any of my rails came with those. Likewise. Built more than a few free floats and what have you and never encountered this. *shrug* |
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I’ve got an H&R complete gray slick side upper paired with a 601 lower I built. Can’t seem to get it cycling reliably with standard rifle length spring and rifle buffer at 5.4oz. Was short stroking rounds. Lightened buffer by 2oz and it seemed to work ok. Is this normal or am I looking at an under gassed situation?
I’ll add I did try different magazines and proper lubrication haha |
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Originally Posted By JUShackle: I've got an H&R complete gray slick side upper paired with a 601 lower I built. Can't seem to get it cycling reliably with standard rifle length spring and rifle buffer at 5.4oz. Was short stroking rounds. Lightened buffer by 2oz and it seemed to work ok. Is this normal or am I looking at an under gassed situation? I'll add I did try different magazines and proper lubrication haha View Quote I have all the necessary tools so I'd just start trying to diagnose it myself but if you don't have to tools or skills just send it back. |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Thanks for the reply, did all those things short of checking the gas block and hole. So signs are pointing that way.
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Originally Posted By JUShackle: I’ve got an H&R complete gray slick side upper paired with a 601 lower I built. Can’t seem to get it cycling reliably with standard rifle length spring and rifle buffer at 5.4oz. Was short stroking rounds. Lightened buffer by 2oz and it seemed to work ok. Is this normal or am I looking at an under gassed situation? I’ll add I did try different magazines and proper lubrication haha View Quote just wondering if you could try it with a carbine lower, M4 buffer tube type, instead of a rifle lower? since the std buffer weight is about 3oz there, understanding that the rifle spring and buffer spring are totally different. Also, easier to swap out different weight buffers on the M4 carbine. |
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Originally Posted By x248716x: just wondering if you could try it with a carbine lower, M4 buffer tube type, instead of a rifle lower? since the std buffer weight is about 3oz there, understanding that the rifle spring and buffer spring are totally different. Also, easier to swap out different weight buffers on the M4 carbine. View Quote I’ll give that a shot when I get to the range. |
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Originally Posted By x248716x: just wondering if you could try it with a carbine lower, M4 buffer tube type, instead of a rifle lower? since the std buffer weight is about 3oz there, understanding that the rifle spring and buffer spring are totally different. Also, easier to swap out different weight buffers on the M4 carbine. View Quote I’ll give that a shot when I get to the range. |
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Originally Posted By x248716x: just wondering if you could try it with a carbine lower, M4 buffer tube type, instead of a rifle lower? since the std buffer weight is about 3oz there, understanding that the rifle spring and buffer spring are totally different. Also, easier to swap out different weight buffers on the M4 carbine. View Quote I’ll give that a shot when I get to the range. |
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Did not mean to spam, not sure why it posted 3 times
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Okay, this could be totally unrelated but I had a weird issue with my 601 at first too. I was getting consistent jams. I could chamber the first round manually but subsequent rounds jammed on the feed ramp.
I started double checking things and wondered about the how the mag was sitting. It didn't seem like it was picking rounds up from the mag correctly. I backed the mag release button back a turn or two which seemed to let the mag seat more positively. My feed issues went away. It was weird, but that fixed it. I honestly don't even recall why I thought to try that. It may not be that at all, but it's an easy thing to try on the off chance its something minor and weird like mine was. I had an H&R 601 lower and a mix match of other parts. |
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: I'd start with a process of elimination. Try a different BCG to see if it's got bad gas rings or bleeding off too much gas. If that doesn't do it, try the upper on another lower. If that doesn't work you can either take the gas block off and see if the port isn't drilled out properly or maybe the gas block isn't seated over the gas port properly. I have all the necessary tools so I'd just start trying to diagnose it myself but if you don't have to tools or skills just send it back. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By metalsaber: Originally Posted By JUShackle: I've got an H&R complete gray slick side upper paired with a 601 lower I built. Can't seem to get it cycling reliably with standard rifle length spring and rifle buffer at 5.4oz. Was short stroking rounds. Lightened buffer by 2oz and it seemed to work ok. Is this normal or am I looking at an under gassed situation? I'll add I did try different magazines and proper lubrication haha I have all the necessary tools so I'd just start trying to diagnose it myself but if you don't have to tools or skills just send it back. My M16A1 was short stroking sometimes, at least once a mag, and the issue went away when I lubed the carrier and buffer assy with mobile 1 red grease instead of just a light coat of oil |
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Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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The upper and lower match in color really well. I'd like to do a gray rifle one day.
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Question for Mike@NDS...
Does the H&R 601 Lower (HR51655152100B) have a specific upper that it mates to? (I'm thinking of the unique front take down pin that the lower uses) Thanks for all you are doing. |
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Originally Posted By MadMax66: Question for Mike@NDS... Does the H&R 601 Lower (HR51655152100B) have a specific upper that it mates to? (I'm thinking of the unique front take down pin that the lower uses) Thanks for all you are doing. View Quote The slickside upper is the most appropriate for this lower. |
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We are living in a Tom Clancy novel
Over 50 and reputed to be a formidable brigand https://hr1871.com/ |
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No, the slick side and M16A1 have the counter sinks
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We are living in a Tom Clancy novel
Over 50 and reputed to be a formidable brigand https://hr1871.com/ |
Any ETA on 733 uppers? Any chance they will come with a grey upper receiver on the next batch?
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Any estimate on the availability of the late 604 with 1:12 twist? I saw the late 604 with 1:7 twist was available, so perhaps the 1:12 will follow soon.
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The H&R A2 Government Carbine goes to Thunder Ranch |
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Klaus Schwab, the other failed Austrian painter - Felix Rex
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So hadn't done any testing of the A2 COTS lower until yesterday. Noticed that magazines were extremely difficult to insert and remove. honestly thought maybe the magwell wasn't properly cleaned up. nope not that. It turns out that the trigger guard must be too big and is extending into the magwell too far. If I drop the trigger guard out all magazines fit super smooth.
So am in the process of filing the trigger guard down. Most mags are fitting well now but have a few that are still giving me grief. Glad it wasn't an out of spec lower after doing the form 1. |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: So hadn't done any testing of the A2 COTS lower until yesterday. Noticed that magazines were extremely difficult to insert and remove. honestly thought maybe the magwell wasn't properly cleaned up. nope not that. It turns out that the trigger guard must be too big and is extending into the magwell too far. If I drop the trigger guard out all magazines fit super smooth. So am in the process of filing the trigger guard down. Most mags are fitting well now but have a few that are still giving me grief. Glad it wasn't an out of spec lower after doing the form 1. View Quote How does the trigger guard interfere with the magwell? (can't visualize it) |
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So Mote It Be
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: Great question. hopefully this picture illustrates it. Never seen this before. Basically the spine of the magazines are in contact with the trigger guard. There should be enough of a gap that magazines don't contact with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By metalsaber: Originally Posted By Droodog: Originally Posted By metalsaber: So hadn't done any testing of the A2 COTS lower until yesterday. Noticed that magazines were extremely difficult to insert and remove. honestly thought maybe the magwell wasn't properly cleaned up. nope not that. It turns out that the trigger guard must be too big and is extending into the magwell too far. If I drop the trigger guard out all magazines fit super smooth. So am in the process of filing the trigger guard down. Most mags are fitting well now but have a few that are still giving me grief. Glad it wasn't an out of spec lower after doing the form 1. How does the trigger guard interfere with the magwell? (can't visualize it) Great question. hopefully this picture illustrates it. Never seen this before. Basically the spine of the magazines are in contact with the trigger guard. There should be enough of a gap that magazines don't contact with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg I see it now TY , (not saying this is your problem) but I checked a brand new coated H&R 20 rd Mag compared to a 30 year old thermold smooth plastic and the brand new coated mag was tight and I had to pull it out compared to the used mag that just dropped out with gravity maybe the magazines are just new and need to wear the parkerizing a bit in the mag well |
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So Mote It Be
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Originally Posted By Droodog: I see it now TY , (not saying this is your problem) but I checked a brand new coated H&R 20 rd Mag compared to a 30 year old thermold smooth plastic and the brand new coated mag was tight and I had to pull it out compared to the used mag that just dropped out with gravity maybe the magazines are just new and need to wear the parkerizing a bit in the mag well View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Droodog: Originally Posted By metalsaber: Originally Posted By Droodog: Originally Posted By metalsaber: So hadn't done any testing of the A2 COTS lower until yesterday. Noticed that magazines were extremely difficult to insert and remove. honestly thought maybe the magwell wasn't properly cleaned up. nope not that. It turns out that the trigger guard must be too big and is extending into the magwell too far. If I drop the trigger guard out all magazines fit super smooth. So am in the process of filing the trigger guard down. Most mags are fitting well now but have a few that are still giving me grief. Glad it wasn't an out of spec lower after doing the form 1. How does the trigger guard interfere with the magwell? (can't visualize it) Great question. hopefully this picture illustrates it. Never seen this before. Basically the spine of the magazines are in contact with the trigger guard. There should be enough of a gap that magazines don't contact with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg I see it now TY , (not saying this is your problem) but I checked a brand new coated H&R 20 rd Mag compared to a 30 year old thermold smooth plastic and the brand new coated mag was tight and I had to pull it out compared to the used mag that just dropped out with gravity maybe the magazines are just new and need to wear the parkerizing a bit in the mag well |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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Originally Posted By metalsaber: Great question. hopefully this picture illustrates it. Never seen this before. Basically the spine of the magazines are in contact with the trigger guard. There should be enough of a gap that magazines don't contact with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg View Quote Attached File i looked at my trigger guards, that forward end by the magwell. They don't have that residual flashing. That looks like flashing left over from a molding or casting process. Is that something new? haven't bought a trigger guard in years, having bought a couple dozen of them years ago (Costco-sized lifetime supply). |
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Originally Posted By rpoL98: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg i looked at my trigger guards, that forward end by the magwell. They don't have that residual flashing. That looks like flashing left over from a molding or casting process. Is that something new? haven't bought a trigger guard in years, having bought a couple dozen of them years ago (Costco-sized lifetime supply). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rpoL98: Originally Posted By metalsaber: Great question. hopefully this picture illustrates it. Never seen this before. Basically the spine of the magazines are in contact with the trigger guard. There should be enough of a gap that magazines don't contact with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/57852/IMG_2633-3298870.jpg i looked at my trigger guards, that forward end by the magwell. They don't have that residual flashing. That looks like flashing left over from a molding or casting process. Is that something new? haven't bought a trigger guard in years, having bought a couple dozen of them years ago (Costco-sized lifetime supply). yeah that looks wrong , should be smooth and rounded .. swap the trigger guard instead of filing it and marring the finish .. |
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So Mote It Be
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