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Posted: 8/26/2024 9:58:46 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mrmissem: Powerstop rotors from Rock Auto are another decent brand. Have them on my truck (only been about a month). My son-in-law has them on his Duramax. Those have been on there almost 2 yrs. Doing fine. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:00:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveM4K: Detroit Axle rotors for that vehicle. Power stop brake pads |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:12:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BuddyChryst: Not terribly happy with the Power Stops I put on my wife's minivan. They are drilled/slotted, because she kept getting a bit of a throb, so I thought staying cooler might help. The first ones wore weird. ETA: I found the pic I send their customer service: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240289/image1_jpeg-3305673.JPG I asked them to exchange for the cheaper non-drilled/slotted, but they wouldn't. They're worse than bad rotors with vibrations/hum. If it was my daily driver I probably would've switched them out and ate the loss. I used Centric rotors on my car. They only lasted 2 years. Tried Dynamic Friction and they're going well so far. Pads I'll use Akebono, Wagner, or now Dynamic Friction. So until something goes different, I'm currently happy enough with Dynamic Friction. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:15:50 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TaylorAcoustic: Used a Powerstop kit on mine a year or so back. Nothing but pleased with them. First set of power stops I put on my wife's minivan lasted 3 years. The next two lasted a little over a year. Ive had my truck 5 years. I've had two sets of advanced auto premium pads and rotors. I've been very happy, long lasting. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:28:37 PM EDT
[#5]
Toyota/Lexus? OEM pads only.
I did a brake job on my 2001 RAV4 and bought a set of Akebonos from NAPA in preparation for a road trip. The pads, while being produced for a Toyota by a Toyota subsidiary corporation, were a generic fit. Had to file to get them to fit the stock caliper brackets and hardware and move freely. I was crunched for time and didn't have the time to wait for OE pads which were available, but needed to be special ordered from the dealer. Yes, I verified the Akibono on number was correct for my application. I used aftermarket cheapie rotors and Lexus OE grease. Occasionally get noise under light braking. Next time? Factory pads and shim kits. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:31:18 PM EDT
[#6]
2nd tier rotors from O'Reilly and the $80 low dust pads.
Works OK for me. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:40:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 14BoltFF]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BillofRights: Jeep didn’t have AntiSkid by 2003?  Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BillofRights: Originally Posted By hummerbk: Centric rotors and Black Magic brake pads. I did a two axel brake job using these a couple of weeks ago. I followed the break-in procedure and took my wife for a ride. This is a 2003 Jeep wrangler with 33x 12.5x 15. We were doing about 45 mph and I said "Hang on, I'm going to test the new brakes." I locked them up and left two 12.5 inch wide black marks. There is no way I could have locked them up without those pads, expensive but well worth it. Jeep didn’t have AntiSkid by 2003? @BillofRights My 2004 Wrangler didn't have ABS and I loved it for that. It was optional back then. ABS wasn't standard on the Wrangler until 2007 with the JK model. ABS sucks off road and in deep snow. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 10:53:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BillofRights: Jeep didn’t have AntiSkid by 2003? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BillofRights: Originally Posted By hummerbk: Centric rotors and Black Magic brake pads. I did a two axel brake job using these a couple of weeks ago. I followed the break-in procedure and took my wife for a ride. This is a 2003 Jeep wrangler with 33x 12.5x 15. We were doing about 45 mph and I said "Hang on, I'm going to test the new brakes." I locked them up and left two 12.5 inch wide black marks. There is no way I could have locked them up without those pads, expensive but well worth it. Jeep didn’t have AntiSkid by 2003? Was an option on the TJ. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:04:15 PM EDT
[#9]
Akebono cermamic pads and Brembo OE disks is what i've used for the past couple of years on my Audi's. Akebono makes an excellent low dust pad. None of that slotted/drilled stuff for the rotors. The Brembo disks are stamped made in Germany.
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:07:47 PM EDT
[#10]
EBC Yellow pads. Powerstop sucks. Just swapped out 2 vehicles from Powerstop Z23 to EBC yellows. Night and freakin day difference.
Yes, more brake dust. I’m ok with brake dust if this is the trade off. Powerstop rotors are fine. Pads suck ass. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:09:13 PM EDT
[#11]
The complete PowerStop Extreme Towing Rotor and Pad set from Rockauto or Amazon (sometimes cheaper due to shipping) is a great improvement in stopping ability over OEM, and is a nice deal with everything included except the calipers themselves.
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:17:06 PM EDT
[#12]
I used to shop exclusively at Rock Auto but my card was compromised after my last two purchases… coincidence🤷🏼
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:23:26 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cypher15: ALL drilled rotors crack eventually. It was 13 months and my wife drives maybe 10k/year. That’s not eventually. That’s shitty product. Cracked?, strange wear pattern, poor performance. Had heard a lot of positive reviews. I won’t buy Powerstop again. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:29:37 PM EDT
[#14]
If your rotors don't vibrate and exceed minimum thickness then they do not need to be replaced. Scuff both sides with some 200 grit sandpaper and install new pads.
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:31:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: I have drilled and slotted rotors, just because that came as a kit for my Ford with PowerStops upgraded towing/heavy duty system, which included new calipers, rotors, and pads. I have not had a single problem with them. However, they don't really offer anything special since they are the same size as OEM and the PowerStop calipers are just rebuilt OEM with quality components and powder coated. They still will experience extreme brake fade just as bad as the OEM did if I get them hot. I just hope they cool down a little quicker. https://i.postimg.cc/ht2YHGNf/screenshot-1079.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. I have drilled and slotted rotors, just because that came as a kit for my Ford with PowerStops upgraded towing/heavy duty system, which included new calipers, rotors, and pads. I have not had a single problem with them. However, they don't really offer anything special since they are the same size as OEM and the PowerStop calipers are just rebuilt OEM with quality components and powder coated. They still will experience extreme brake fade just as bad as the OEM did if I get them hot. I just hope they cool down a little quicker. https://i.postimg.cc/ht2YHGNf/screenshot-1079.jpg Drilled/slotted rotors add meaningless levels of added surface area and will annoy you on a daily driver. |
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:38:19 PM EDT
[#16]
Raybestos pads
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Posted: 8/26/2024 11:47:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lexustech48: Toyota/Lexus? OEM pads only. I did a brake job on my 2001 RAV4 and bought a set of Akebonos from NAPA in preparation for a road trip. The pads, while being produced for a Toyota by a Toyota subsidiary corporation, were a generic fit. Had to file to get them to fit the stock caliper brackets and hardware and move freely. I was crunched for time and didn't have the time to wait for OE pads which were available, but needed to be special ordered from the dealer. Yes, I verified the Akibono on number was correct for my application. I used aftermarket cheapie rotors and Lexus OE grease. Occasionally get noise under light braking. Next time? Factory pads and shim kits. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 12:19:48 AM EDT
[#18]
another vote for akebono. zero dust and as good or better than stock performance. had them on my Audi. basically stopped cleaning my wheels as they didnt get dirty.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 12:45:17 AM EDT
[#19]
Akebono Pro-Act ceramics are OEM for Nissan and a lot of makers. Might as well get OEM quality for non-dealership prices.
PS Scotty Kilmer recommends Akebono brake pads so you know they're good. 
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:36:20 AM EDT
[#20]
New rotors? Lol.
<---Laughs in sand paper |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:06:21 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Amped: Toyota and Lexus do best with OEM. I did OE on my nephews Toyota Camry. Turned out to be about $50 total more than Vato Zone and Oreilly's. That's a definite win. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:45:16 AM EDT
[#22]
So, it's 4:30 AM here on Long Island and I can't sleep. I checked this thread and found a lot of info.
My thanks to all who replied. I'll sort through all this and see what's available locally. We have a Napa, Advance, and Auto Zone in the area. One take away I got is to avoid drilled/slotted rotors. It's a Grand Cherokee with the 5.7. It's driven pretty gently and it's not really a daily driver as I have a company take home car. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:53:22 AM EDT
[#23]
After a horrible experience with Centric and Raybestos rotors warping, I will only use higher end brands going forward, EBC if possible.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 10:42:31 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By madmathew: I tried these and won't do that again. I'm only using the zinc coated rotors. They hold up to the elements much better. What is the problem with rusty rotors? The part that matters gets cleaned off every time you brake. Now cheap pads with rusty flaking ears getting stuck because of rust flaking? Oh yeah new rotors and pads time. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 10:55:06 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rebel31: Drilled/slotted rotors add meaningless levels of added surface area and will annoy you on a daily driver. They add surface area? You sure about that? There’s less surface area on a drilled rotor. Anyone putting drilled rotors on a basic daily driver has no idea what they are doing. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 10:57:20 AM EDT
[#26]
I've bought a few sets of Powerstops at this point, and it always seems like the brake pads are too tightly fit to the caliper bracket.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:00:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#27]
I am not trying to be shitty or accuse any one and yeah made out of Chinesium is a thing but I think we blame the arrow and not the indian too much.
Warped rotors? Did you clean the hub surface properly? Was your runout under 0.002 dial indicator confirmed? Did you grease the slider pins? Did you over grease them so they cant go all the way in? Did you remove all the scale and rust from the pad bracket that is pushing and seizing the pad? Did you replace the brakes push the brakes down look at the fluid res and say to yourself "gee this looks low let me add it to max, its not like the fluid doesnt have anywhere to go"? Did you ugga dugga the lug nuts so bad that it bent our rotors? Did you make sure that the caliper pistons travel freely and not get stuck? Did you make sure that you replace your brake hoses according to the manufacturer specifications and they arent collapsing on vacuum ? I get it cheap shitty chinese parts but a brake job is one of the simplest things to do and one of the simplest things to screw up. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:11:15 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: They add surface area? You sure about that? There’s less surface area on a drilled rotor. Anyone putting drilled rotors on a basic daily driver has no idea what they are doing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Rebel31: Drilled/slotted rotors add meaningless levels of added surface area and will annoy you on a daily driver. They add surface area? You sure about that? There’s less surface area on a drilled rotor. Anyone putting drilled rotors on a basic daily driver has no idea what they are doing. He didn't say brake pad contact area. Holes and slots would create surface area to the rotor as a whole. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:14:03 AM EDT
[#29]
Lots of good and interesting info from all of you.
I appreciate it all. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:16:41 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mds238: Lots of good and interesting info from all of you. I appreciate it all. Oh! Do you have a way to push the pistons back in? |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:19:01 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gordo556: I use the OEM GM Police brake rotors and pads on my Silverado. larger OD. better metal. more vanes for cooling. the pads have more surface area if you look at Silverado pads vs police Silverado pads. they contact the whole rotor and dont have the beveled edges, much like the Tahoe pads. they are made for hard fast stops. been holding up GREAT. 6 years old on the truck. no noise. no vibrations. nothing. probably have only 50k on them so far. the power stops my buddy uses are junk. he drives the same amount as I do and they warp. rocks get caught in them. he went OEM this time around. he had 2 sets of PS brakes. junk. 50k, 3 sets of brakes to my 1 set. I have my old rotors and pads I offered up to him with 20k on them and he is thick headed..  This is what I've been doing the last 15 years on our trucks and SUVs. OEM Ford or GM Police brakes and rotors. Have gotten very good service out of them and noticeably better stopping power than the factory originals. And they are not terribly expensive compared to high end brands. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:19:58 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dynamo: He didn't say brake pad contact area. Holes and slots would create surface area to the rotor as a whole. Really? Less material equals more surface area? Interesting… |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:24:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dynamo]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Really? Less material equals more surface area? Interesting… Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Dynamo: He didn't say brake pad contact area. Holes and slots would create surface area to the rotor as a whole. Really? Less material equals more surface area? Interesting… Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:27:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WDEagle]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dynamo: Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. Depends on the size of said holes and slots and the thickness of the rotor. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:29:10 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dynamo: Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. Ok. I’ll play along… How does that help based on your description of “adding surface area”? |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:30:03 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WDEagle: Depends on the size of said holes and slots and the thickness of the rotor. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WDEagle: Originally Posted By Dynamo: Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. Depends on the size of said holes and slots and the thickness of the rotor. True. I was assuming that's what he meant though. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:32:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#37]
Scientific paper on rotor cooling and vanes, slots and holes.
I drive down through and back bumfuck Appalachian mountains in a loaded up Ford Flex, I need all the cooling I can get with that heavy bastard. Also exotic materials aside bigger brakes are much better at dealing with heat vs drilled holes slots and so on mathematically speaking. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:35:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dynamo]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Ok. I’ll play along… How does that help based on your description of “adding surface area”? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Dynamo: Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. Ok. I’ll play along… How does that help based on your description of “adding surface area”? I wasn't commenting on whether they help or hurt, just interjecting about total surface area. And as WDEagle pointed out I should've said "potentially" add total surface area. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:42:05 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dynamo: I wasn't commenting on whether or not they help or hurt, just interjecting about total surface area. And as WDEagle pointed out I should've said "potentially" add total surface area. It doesn’t potentially add surface area in any way. Cross drilling takes away from surface area and also provides less material to dissipate heat. It reduces the top two functions of a brake rotor. They’re pointless and silly on anything other than a show car. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 11:50:37 AM EDT
[#40]
2010 Honda Accord EX 2.4L Sedan Auto 5-Speed.
Bought the car new and I am on my third set of factory front rotors and pads. Did all the work myself. The rears rotors and pads are on the six set of after market rotor and pads. Car has a known issue of awful rear rotor and pad wear due to those screw in rear calipers that suck. I have 241K miles on it. I replace the brake fluid every year since it's fifth year of ownership when I took it over from my ex-wife. This is what I suggest you do. I would replace the rotors and pads with factory OEM parts and make sure the brake job is done right. For me that was not a problem because I did them myself, and I mean bed the pads and really make sure you get a truly done brake job that works for years with properly lubricated parts. There is a technique to them. I would also make sure my car's front end is straight and so should your vehicle. Makes them last longer. Make sure you swap out all brake fluid for fresh. My next front brake job which is next year, I will replace everything and plan on it. New rotors, pads, calipers, and flex lines. Amazon has complete kits as OEM is redankuless now even if I can get OEM parts that are becoming challenging to acquire. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 12:05:37 PM EDT
[#41]
You guys seem to go through a lot of rotors, holy shit.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 12:27:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: You guys seem to go through a lot of rotors, holy shit. That's because "I do my own work and I know what I'm doing". Meanwhile the caliper slide pins are so dry that Ben Shapiro tried to fuck them. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 12:36:00 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: That's because "I do my own work and I know what I'm doing". Meanwhile the caliper slide pins are so dry that Ben Shapiro tried to fuck them. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: You guys seem to go through a lot of rotors, holy shit. That's because "I do my own work and I know what I'm doing". Meanwhile the caliper slide pins are so dry that Ben Shapiro tried to fuck them. But they bedded the pads bro. That's all that matters. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:18:58 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Oh! Do you have a way to push the pistons back in? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By Mds238: Lots of good and interesting info from all of you. I appreciate it all. Oh! Do you have a way to push the pistons back in? Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:22:36 PM EDT
[#45]
I use mid-grade Centric rotors and pads. I haven’t crashed yet, so they must be good.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:24:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Oh! Do you have a way to push the pistons back in? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By Mds238: Lots of good and interesting info from all of you. I appreciate it all. Oh! Do you have a way to push the pistons back in? I've always just used one of these.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:26:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MilHouse-556: I've always just used one of these. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/16302/1000003824_jpg-3306256.JPG Do you use the big C clamp to smash the 12v parking brake motor off the rear caliper ? Or do you use the C clamp to short it?
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:29:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MilHouse-556]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Do you use the big C clamp to smash the 12v parking brake motor off the rear caliper ? Or do you use the C clamp to short it? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By MilHouse-556: I've always just used one of these. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/16302/1000003824_jpg-3306256.JPG Do you use the big C clamp to smash the 12v parking brake motor off the rear caliper ? Or do you use the C clamp to short it? Sounds fancy. I've never owned a vehicle with an electrical parking brake. They've all been mechanical.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:47:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M4DUDE]
[#49]
The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 1:59:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Stay away from those cheap Powerstop drilled rotors that everyone seems to love for some reason. They crack in between the holes like crazy. And unless you are driving a track car that gets the rotors glowing hot, all those holes and slots in the rotors do nothing but take retor surface/fraction away, and eat up brake pads.
A good set of solid rotors, and pads like HAWK....will work wonders for your braking performance. Just make sure you match the compound up to your application. |
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