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Posted: 1/10/2019 12:27:48 PM EST
[#1]
I was looking for something else in our curio cabinet and found some souvenirs that had been gifted to my father when he worked for the State Republican Party.
The box in between the cufflinks is M&Ms candy (well, they were, they sound kind of disintegrated now) with a facsimile of George Bush's (41) signature, and the match book is from the same time. @guns762, PM me your mailing address and I'll send them to you for the display. (I'm keeping the cuff links. Sorry.)  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/10/2019 1:12:38 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I may order some, but I don't think we will be doing any vacuum forming. We will probably play with the plexiglass first and see how much of a disister it is, and go from thrre. |
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Posted: 1/10/2019 2:12:20 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was looking for something else in our curio cabinet and found some souvenirs that had been gifted to my father when he worked for the State Republican Party. The box in between the cufflinks is M&Ms candy (well, they were, they sound kind of disintegrated now) with a facsimile of George Bush's (41) signature, and the match book is from the same time. @guns762, PM me your mailing address and I'll send them to you for the display. (I'm keeping the cuff links. Sorry.) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74363/IMG_20190110_074655120_jpg-802800.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74363/IMG_20190110_074606076_jpg-802801.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74363/IMG_20190110_074612218_jpg-802803.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74363/IMG_20190110_074627093_jpg-802804.JPG |
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Posted: 1/10/2019 2:26:36 PM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How important is it to be transparent? Could you cover with poster board and paint on the window details? Granted you lose the 3d effect from different angles but might be an overall higher quality option. I'm thinking along the lines of what you did on the shuttle. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I may order some, but I don't think we will be doing any vacuum forming. We will probably play with the plexiglass first and see how much of a disister it is, and go from thrre. 
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Posted: 1/10/2019 2:28:13 PM EST
[#5]
Hey, what do you do when your cockpit is 2.5" too long????
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Posted: 1/10/2019 2:35:18 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hey, what do you do when your cockpit is 2.5" too long???? CAD or assembly? Interior or exterior dimensions? When/where was issue found? Could be anything from adding internal bulkhead to store the controller stuff as "needed to add space and figured this would be inconspicuous" excuse, to "cut it apart and put it back together again", like you already did once. |
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Posted: 1/10/2019 3:18:28 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hey, what do you do when your cockpit is 2.5" too long???? 
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Posted: 1/10/2019 8:38:06 PM EST
[#8]
And then there was a sudden shudder through out the galaxy as PHS students cried out in fear..........
The rivets have arrived!! 
This is 1000heads, and 1000 tails, so we should have around 5000 individual rivets on the blackhawk when we get these all on. 
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Posted: 1/10/2019 8:58:43 PM EST
[#9]
Update 1/10
So back to the regularly scheduled "oh, how the heck did we get an extra 2.5"  Here you can see the gap between where the main fuselage and the cockpit cabin portion mate. When getting info from CAD, these two frames were supposed to touch, but once we discussed where they felt this was ending, it didn't match up with our windows and doors on the rear fuselage. To get the right placement of the first forward cabin frame, we had to move it 4" forward.......at least we thought that was correct.  Today we discussed and came to a consensus that when the pilots side windows were mapped in, there was too much space away from the cargobay doors and windows.Once we did more measuring we needed to lose 2.5" and leave 1.5 inches between the frames from the two sections. 
This is what we ended up with. We had to cut a few ribs, and removed all the screws from the main beam. We then just slid it back into place, reset the scews, and we were good to go. Whole thing to about an hour. 
The main beam is the 2x4. The lower 2x2 slid back into the fuselage along with the rest of the frames. 
Some people thought this was funny. Future rivetor here.
 We also added more frames for the engine cowlings on top of the helicopter. 
We went to add a couple other details to the lower side of the rear fuselage, and realized this part is just too small. This is the beginning of the rebuild. 
This is getting closer to finished. 
This portion of the mural is also very close to finiahed. 
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Posted: 1/10/2019 9:46:02 PM EST
[#10]
Lookin' good Guns!
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Posted: 1/11/2019 12:02:18 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update 1/10 So back to the regularly scheduled "oh, how the heck did we get an extra 2.5" Here you can see the gap between where the main fuselage and the cockpit cabin portion mate. When getting info from CAD, these two frames were supposed to touch, but once we discussed where they felt this was ending, it didn't match up with our windows and doors on the rear fuselage. To get the right placement of the first forward cabin frame, we had to move it 4" forward.......at least we thought that was correct. Today we discussed and came to a consensus that when the pilots side windows were mapped in, there was too much space away from the cargobay doors and windows.Once we did more measuring we needed to lose 2.5" and leave 1.5 inches between the frames from the two sections. https://i.imgur.com/OUi6F13.jpg This is what we ended up with. We had to cut a few ribs, and removed all the screws from the main beam. We then just slid it back into place, reset the scews, and we were good to go. Whole thing to about an hour. https://i.imgur.com/CKqaMBC.jpg The main beam is the 2x4. The lower 2x2 slid back into the fuselage along with the rest of the frames. https://i.imgur.com/f2zqsoC.jpg Some people thought this was funny. Future rivetor here.
https://i.imgur.com/5J22BsB.jpg We also added more frames for the engine cowlings on top of the helicopter. https://i.imgur.com/ILmG49n.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TbaLyDZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rCprUnf.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lxTjZfG.jpg We went to add a couple other details to the lower side of the rear fuselage, and realized this part is just too small. This is the beginning of the rebuild. https://i.imgur.com/Z2PvP3s.jpg This is getting closer to finished. https://i.imgur.com/QdRAxS9.jpg This portion of the mural is also very close to finiahed. https://i.imgur.com/6p8psPr.jpg  
If you already have one, I'mnot sure what is going wrong. Glad you corrected the length issue with your cock pit. --ETA: I love how you've worked the other works into this one, train is very subtle and nice, Shuttle as well. I don't know where sub could hide, but you've got it covered otherwise. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 12:17:19 AM EST
[#12]
Huh, missed this thread from the get go, should pay more attention I guess.
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Posted: 1/11/2019 6:37:58 AM EST
[#13]
Two thoughts:
1. Start calling rivet girl Rosie. See if she can figure out why. 2. Have a periscope sticking out of the water in the mural. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 7:47:27 AM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Suggestion on the rivet lines. Spacing is good. Line, well. I suggest one of these, then pre-drill easily since the center won't walk when putting rivet in. If you already have one, I'mnot sure what is going wrong. Glad you corrected the length issue with your cock pit. --ETA: I love how you've worked the other works into this one, train is very subtle and nice, Shuttle as well. I don't know where sub could hide, but you've got it covered otherwise.
"Freshman."......that's who we will blame it on.
We end up having people go back and fix some rivets that get out of line. We haven't had many people available to do that lately. Before we paint, some sections will get corrected a bit. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 7:49:01 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Two thoughts: 1. Start calling rivet girl Rosie. See if she can figure out why. 2. Have a periscope sticking out of the water in the mural.
There may be another way to work the sub in. I'm going to inspect the piece I was thinking about today. I saw it in my supply closet the otherday, collecting dust in the corner. It might be perfect if we can show the right angle. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 7:52:06 AM EST
[#16]
My chief electrical engineer told me he's about ready to install the motion activated controller for the White House and grounds. He said the new modulators I ordered over Christmas break make the LEDs much brighter than before. I'm excited to see if it makes a difference.
He will then start working on the mechanics of the sliding door on the blackhawk side of our helo. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 9:30:07 AM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My chief electrical engineer told me he's about ready to install the motion activated controller for the White House and grounds. He said the new modulators I ordered over Christmas break make the LEDs much brighter than before. I'm excited to see if it makes a difference. He will then start working on the mechanics of the sliding door on the blackhawk side of our helo. turn one way to open, other way to close, just like the old string mess that moved the pointer on analog radio dials. Would require spring return (or pully on far end of door for longer string to run through to reverse direction), instead, could use a motor on either side with take up and supply swapping places for full control, that case would hae the door contact fixed instead of sliding.. 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 9:32:08 AM EST
[#18]
Well, this is in much worse condition than I remember.
Not sure we can salvage enough to hide in the 3D clouds/mist .....maybe as a wreck? 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 9:36:56 AM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, this is in much worse condition than I remember.
Not sure we can salvage enough to hide in the 3D clouds/mist .....maybe as a wreck?
https://i.imgur.com/QJeOoXv.jpg |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 10:51:29 AM EST
[#20]
"We still need tabs for the football to help secure it and allow us to take it off and one when needed."
How often will the football need to be removed? Maybe as simple as a couple of magnets epoxied inside and on the frame to hold in place? |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 12:01:42 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
"We still need tabs for the football to help secure it and allow us to take it off and one when needed." How often will the football need to be removed? Maybe as simple as a couple of magnets epoxied inside and on the frame to hold in place?
Solution is coming your way soon. 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 3:47:27 PM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like your idea, but we went a little less sophisticated.
Solution is coming your way soon.
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Posted: 1/11/2019 4:13:54 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like your idea, but we went a little less sophisticated.
Solution is coming your way soon. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
"We still need tabs for the football to help secure it and allow us to take it off and one when needed." How often will the football need to be removed? Maybe as simple as a couple of magnets epoxied inside and on the frame to hold in place?
Solution is coming your way soon.
Something like these have amazing holding power if you use two for holding alignment, 4 magnets total. I can hot goo mount something this way faster than any other method, very handy when trying to add a compartment to wood. A bigger magnet helps you pull it off while retaining function. 
 120 PCS Refrigerator Magnets Premium Brushed Nickel Fridge Magnets,Office Magnets,Whiteboard Magnets
(ebay has more for cheaper, 200 packs of various shapes and sizes, and always keep some 1"+ packs handy as well). Can beef up any magnetic pick up tool by gooing on some extra magnet suction power! |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 4:46:40 PM EST
[#24]
This is going to work. Dremel off what we need , and how we want it displayed. 
This was decided to be the best spot, although I didnt like them all being right together. It did fit well, and I relented, as she was a good sport about doing this after she initially told me no way.
Pretty much I let her have it her way. 
Shes got some painting to do on it to make it rusted. 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 4:50:24 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is going to work. Dremel off what we need , and how we want it displayed. https://i.imgur.com/mj3Mh8Y.jpg This was decided to be the best spot, although I didnt like them all being right together. It did fit well, and I relented, as she was a good sport about doing this after she initially told me no way.
Pretty much I let her have it her way.
Shes got some painting to do on it to make it rusted. https://i.imgur.com/gcey3qn.jpg 
You may have hurt the feelings of the student who so meticulously assembled that model a couple years ago. However, it's proceeding to infamy instead of storage, so I think this is AWESOME! |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 5:05:35 PM EST
[#26]
Continued......
Last details to the main rotor hub are done and ready for paint. 
We also added the front portion of our rocket sled unit. This also needed a recess cut out for the hub to sit down in. 
 The tabs for the football going on. Pretty basic, but they allow us to bend to the right place. 
Hanging in place. We need to skin behind this and on the edges before we get serious about attaching this in place. 
More body blending. 
Finally, rivets! 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 5:11:26 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You may have hurt the feelings of the student who so meticulously assembled that model a couple years ago. However, it's proceeding to infamy instead of storage, so I think this is AWESOME! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This is going to work. Dremel off what we need , and how we want it displayed. https://i.imgur.com/mj3Mh8Y.jpg This was decided to be the best spot, although I didnt like them all being right together. It did fit well, and I relented, as she was a good sport about doing this after she initially told me no way.
Pretty much I let her have it her way.
Shes got some painting to do on it to make it rusted. https://i.imgur.com/gcey3qn.jpg
You may have hurt the feelings of the student who so meticulously assembled that model a couple years ago. However, it's proceeding to infamy instead of storage, so I think this is AWESOME! It was pretty trashed when we finished.
And........the kid who put it together is currently reworking the space shuttle.....and I'll kick his ass if he doesn't like it.
He might also be my youngest son. 
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Posted: 1/11/2019 5:37:29 PM EST
[#28]
I'm trying to upload pictures, but imgur is being weird.
Hes adding a IR remote to open the doors on demand. He says he also rewrote the code to be less cumbersome. It's about 100 lines shorter, and hardware interrupts. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 6:12:20 PM EST
[#29]
Every time I see the engine hoist I laugh.
I wonder how many art classes in the world have one. |
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Posted: 1/11/2019 6:25:27 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Every time I see the engine hoist I laugh. I wonder how many art classes in the world have one.
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Posted: 1/11/2019 6:40:41 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Every time I see the engine hoist I laugh. I wonder how many art classes in the world have one.
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Posted: 1/12/2019 12:02:16 AM EST
[#32]
While you've got it apart...
Run a 2" hole saw down each side of all the panels and along top and bottom. Call them "speed holes", but they'd also make a way for wirin g to get around. One would have a PVC pipe at tail headed to cargo area, hub down, etc. Wherever you decide the power in and controllers will be. If you don't have any clue where it's going, then they're Lightening Holes. NEVER Think you'll never need/use them. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 9:18:31 AM EST
[#33]
We managed to get the hardware installed last night, but there was a flaw in the code.
We quit for the night and went to dinner. 
My son fixed the code after dinner and it's ready to install sometime today. This whole assembly had to come off to access the arduino. 
I'm pretty amazed at how much his level of knowledge has improved since he last worked on this. After almost 3 years of electrical engineering, in suppose it should .
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Posted: 1/12/2019 1:31:11 PM EST
[#34]
I'm sorry to say, that submarine looks like you are just shoehorning it in for the sake of adding it.
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Posted: 1/12/2019 1:56:10 PM EST
[#35]
Very impressed with the build, and past builds
I do have a question Why do you allow them to shotgun the rivets on there? |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 2:34:38 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm sorry to say, that submarine looks like you are just shoehorning it in for the sake of adding it.
It might, but it fits the hurricane disaster composition on that wall pretty well. Most people will just see a ship wreck. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 2:37:15 PM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Very impressed with the build, and past builds I do have a question Why do you allow them to shotgun the rivets on there? Good news is, at least on some of our references on the real thing, they aren't much better at lines.
Once the paint goes on, they won't stick out so bad. The white really accentuates the lines. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 2:53:43 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's harder than you think to keep them perfectly lined up. The drill bit wants to wander on the paper, even when they are trying to be careful. Good news is, at least on some of our references on the real thing, they aren't much better at lines.
Once the paint goes on, they won't stick out so bad. The white really accentuates the lines. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Very impressed with the build, and past builds I do have a question Why do you allow them to shotgun the rivets on there? Good news is, at least on some of our references on the real thing, they aren't much better at lines.
Once the paint goes on, they won't stick out so bad. The white really accentuates the lines. Draw lines, use a compass to step out spacing, punch each crossing, not at the same time, but when one panel is ready: Draw rivet line with a chalk line or whichever method desired. Mark out spacing with compass set to spacing, arc over centerline and touch pencil down to make next X, move fixed leg of compass to that X, Repeat. If the user pushes hard on the compass leg to X each time, the spiky leg will leave a center for drill to hang out it, no need to re-punch except for last mark on line, which could be stabbed with compass without making a mark. If compass point isn't dep enough to catch drilll, run down it with an auto center punch, with somebody spinning a drill bit into punched centers behind them, or as a second operation. I'm sure you probably know layout methods, but didn't know if this method crossed your mind or not. There are other ways to do it, I'm not sure how you currently draw the lines and mark out spacing, though. After the first few crossings, the compass distance thing is easy and fast, just make sureit's a real compass set via thumb-wheel, so it doesn't get bumped and change spacing as they're marked out. Geometric constructions can be handy, so I hope you have a compass in that room somewhere. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 3:54:14 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: An auto punch takes 1 second per rivet hole and stops the drill wander. Draw lines, use a compass to step out spacing, punch each crossing, not at the same time, but when one panel is ready: Draw rivet line with a chalk line or whichever method desired. Mark out spacing with compass set to spacing, arc over centerline and touch pencil down to make next X, move fixed leg of compass to that X, Repeat. If the user pushes hard on the compass leg to X each time, the spiky leg will leave a center for drill to hang out it, no need to re-punch except for last mark on line, which could be stabbed with compass without making a mark. If compass point isn't dep enough to catch drilll, run down it with an auto center punch, with somebody spinning a drill bit into punched centers behind them, or as a second operation. I'm sure you probably know layout methods, but didn't know if this method crossed your mind or not. There are other ways to do it, I'm not sure how you currently draw the lines and mark out spacing, though. After the first few crossings, the compass distance thing is easy and fast, just make sureit's a real compass set via thumb-wheel, so it doesn't get bumped and change spacing as they're marked out. Geometric constructions can be handy, so I hope you have a compass in that room somewhere.
They do pretty well marking the 1/2" spots for the rivets. They use a ruler after the line is snapped. This picture is probably one that most of you are seeing the rivets out of alignment. This area is not acceptable, and will eventually be corrected.
Students have also pointed out this area and a couple others out that need correction, we just haven't had time yet to do it.
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Posted: 1/12/2019 4:26:04 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They do pretty well marking the 1/2" spots for the rivets. They use a ruler after the line is snapped. This picture is probably one that most of you are seeing the rivets out of alignment. This area is not acceptable, and will eventually be corrected.
Students have also pointed out this area and a couple others out that need correction, we just haven't had time yet to do it. https://i.imgur.com/CKqaMBC.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: An auto punch takes 1 second per rivet hole and stops the drill wander. Draw lines, use a compass to step out spacing, punch each crossing, not at the same time, but when one panel is ready: Draw rivet line with a chalk line or whichever method desired. Mark out spacing with compass set to spacing, arc over centerline and touch pencil down to make next X, move fixed leg of compass to that X, Repeat. If the user pushes hard on the compass leg to X each time, the spiky leg will leave a center for drill to hang out it, no need to re-punch except for last mark on line, which could be stabbed with compass without making a mark. If compass point isn't dep enough to catch drilll, run down it with an auto center punch, with somebody spinning a drill bit into punched centers behind them, or as a second operation. I'm sure you probably know layout methods, but didn't know if this method crossed your mind or not. There are other ways to do it, I'm not sure how you currently draw the lines and mark out spacing, though. After the first few crossings, the compass distance thing is easy and fast, just make sureit's a real compass set via thumb-wheel, so it doesn't get bumped and change spacing as they're marked out. Geometric constructions can be handy, so I hope you have a compass in that room somewhere.
They do pretty well marking the 1/2" spots for the rivets. They use a ruler after the line is snapped. This picture is probably one that most of you are seeing the rivets out of alignment. This area is not acceptable, and will eventually be corrected.
Students have also pointed out this area and a couple others out that need correction, we just haven't had time yet to do it. https://i.imgur.com/CKqaMBC.jpg I thought you were a detail guy? Though I suppose this is why you actually get things finished before the year is over (mostly).
--ETA: Not to get all Math on you, but there's a couple things that don't even involve numbers (but are proven via math theory) to do something if you can't don't want the measurements/calculator I'm adding these because this sort of thing doesn't seem to be taught (or remembered) much anymore, many people are amazed something can be done without a caliper and calculator. [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZEjS2V3c5I[/youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZEjS2V3c5I [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHON3XT5iV0[/youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHON3XT5iV0 [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRmYK5YUSRk[/youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRmYK5YUSRk |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 4:53:59 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's pretty focused and close.. The compass method is faster than a ruler in addition to more accurate, since there's not two things that need to be held, just the compass and previous hole, pencil is already held away from hole the right distance, just need to squiggle it at the crossing, repeat, no moving ruler, ruler parallax error, line not quite where ruler showed it should have been, etc. I thought you were a detail guy? Though I suppose this is why you actually get things finished before the year is over (mostly). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: An auto punch takes 1 second per rivet hole and stops the drill wander. Draw lines, use a compass to step out spacing, punch each crossing, not at the same time, but when one panel is ready: Draw rivet line with a chalk line or whichever method desired. Mark out spacing with compass set to spacing, arc over centerline and touch pencil down to make next X, move fixed leg of compass to that X, Repeat. If the user pushes hard on the compass leg to X each time, the spiky leg will leave a center for drill to hang out it, no need to re-punch except for last mark on line, which could be stabbed with compass without making a mark. If compass point isn't dep enough to catch drilll, run down it with an auto center punch, with somebody spinning a drill bit into punched centers behind them, or as a second operation. I'm sure you probably know layout methods, but didn't know if this method crossed your mind or not. There are other ways to do it, I'm not sure how you currently draw the lines and mark out spacing, though. After the first few crossings, the compass distance thing is easy and fast, just make sureit's a real compass set via thumb-wheel, so it doesn't get bumped and change spacing as they're marked out. Geometric constructions can be handy, so I hope you have a compass in that room somewhere.
They do pretty well marking the 1/2" spots for the rivets. They use a ruler after the line is snapped. This picture is probably one that most of you are seeing the rivets out of alignment. This area is not acceptable, and will eventually be corrected.
Students have also pointed out this area and a couple others out that need correction, we just haven't had time yet to do it. https://i.imgur.com/CKqaMBC.jpg I thought you were a detail guy? Though I suppose this is why you actually get things finished before the year is over (mostly). To get this done, we have to live with some flaws. You should hear the kids when they come in at different times during the day and see something that they dont like. The rivets definatley get that response, and I remind them we will fix the bad ones....we just have to wait a bit. As to using a compass, we just have cheap ones that dont stay set. I've had good ones, but they get broken too quickly......kind of like double action airbrushes.
Rulers for this work pretty well. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 4:55:30 PM EST
[#42]
I'm currently sitting under the space shuttle again, as Top_Men works to figure out what's wrong with the new code.
It wasnt quite fixed....
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Posted: 1/12/2019 5:02:19 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As to using a compass, we just have cheap ones that dont stay set. I've had good ones, but they get broken too quickly......kind of like double action airbrushes.
Rulers for this work pretty well. 
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Posted: 1/12/2019 5:02:55 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm currently sitting under the space shuttle again, as Top_Men works to figure out what's wrong with the new code. It wasnt quite fixed.... |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 5:09:55 PM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't know it was broken? I thought he was adding "enhancements" to it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm currently sitting under the space shuttle again, as Top_Men works to figure out what's wrong with the new code. It wasnt quite fixed....
He thinks he knows what's wrong now. Little problem with pins2&3 on the motor shield. He says we have to do a little surgery. The hardware interrupts are being triggered and not allowing the door motors to keep moving. That's the new theory. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 12:48:56 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It wasnt broken.....till we enhanced it.....
He thinks he knows what's wrong now. Little problem with pins2&3 on the motor shield. He says we have to do a little surgery. The hardware interrupts are being triggered and not allowing the door motors to keep moving. That's the new theory.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 12:51:17 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It wasnt broken.....till we enhanced it.....
He thinks he knows what's wrong now. Little problem with pins2&3 on the motor shield. He says we have to do a little surgery. The hardware interrupts are being triggered and not allowing the door motors to keep moving. That's the new theory. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm currently sitting under the space shuttle again, as Top_Men works to figure out what's wrong with the new code. It wasnt quite fixed....
He thinks he knows what's wrong now. Little problem with pins2&3 on the motor shield. He says we have to do a little surgery. The hardware interrupts are being triggered and not allowing the door motors to keep moving. That's the new theory. If you pick hardware for anything other than initial setup, need to do all commands direct. Arduino will do really odd stuff since it (correctly) assumes the rest of the code "isn't touching/using that" so blindly writes without a check read first. If they did that, it'd e 30x slower than native 9instead of 10x). Not as many people would get interested, etc. What are pins 2/3 on what he thinks the problem is with Is it communictions, such as I²C to board or direct write? Been so long I forgot. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 1:23:34 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is he combining direct register access in C with "DigtalWrite" commands in the Arduino library? If you pick hardware for anything other than initial setup, need to do all commands direct. Arduino will do really odd stuff since it (correctly) assumes the rest of the code "isn't touching/using that" so blindly writes without a check read first. If they did that, it'd e 30x slower than native 9instead of 10x). Not as many people would get interested, etc. What are pins 2/3 on what he thinks the problem is with Is it communictions, such as I²C to board or direct write? Been so long I forgot. He ran into a problem with what he thinks is the motor shield. He isolated pins 2 and 3 on the arduino for the hardware interrupts, but they are still drawing down causing the interrupts to trigger, shutting off the doors.We had to give up last night. He thinks maybe there may be a slight change the pins are still touching the shield, as the error doesn't happen when the sheild is not on. Hes tried it on two different arduinos thinking one might be broken, but as soon as the sheild is added, the error occurs on those pins. Hes going to try to cover the ends of the pins and see if it keeps the pins from shutting off the doors. After that... we dont know what to do.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 4:45:41 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is my know nothing explanation.... He ran into a problem with what he thinks is the motor shield. He isolated pins 2 and 3 on the arduino for the hardware interrupts, but they are still drawing down causing the interrupts to trigger, shutting off the doors.We had to give up last night. He thinks maybe there may be a slight change the pins are still touching the shield, as the error doesn't happen when the sheild is not on. Hes tried it on two different arduinos thinking one might be broken, but as soon as the sheild is added, the error occurs on those pins. Hes going to try to cover the ends of the pins and see if it keeps the pins from shutting off the doors. After that... we dont know what to do. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 5:51:43 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't let the pins float unconnected. Put a pull-up resistor on them to hold them steady high. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This is my know nothing explanation.... He ran into a problem with what he thinks is the motor shield. He isolated pins 2 and 3 on the arduino for the hardware interrupts, but they are still drawing down causing the interrupts to trigger, shutting off the doors.We had to give up last night. He thinks maybe there may be a slight change the pins are still touching the shield, as the error doesn't happen when the sheild is not on. Hes tried it on two different arduinos thinking one might be broken, but as soon as the sheild is added, the error occurs on those pins. Hes going to try to cover the ends of the pins and see if it keeps the pins from shutting off the doors. After that... we dont know what to do. The shield was using pins 2 and 3 for chip select, and 2 and 3 are the only pins on an arduino uno that can be used as hardware interrupts. . He soldered to wires from 2 to 10 and 3 to 11, then cut the pins 2 and 3 from the shield to the arduino. The weird thing is they are still pulling low, triggering the interrupts. No where in the program are the pins 2 and 3 being used, but they are still pulling low. The guess is the shield is pulling them. We are about to head over for another session of fix it. |
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