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Quoted: $750 + $50 shipping from Prague, Czechia for the kit. It's $1,000 for the prebuilt printer, probably same amount for shipping, but don't assume. I'd probably buy the prebuilt if I had to do it again, maybe. That extra $250 is a lot of scratch. But when you buy the kit, it is a kit. no two parts are put together. There's a lot of cleaning out screw holes, and the threaded plastic nuts that mount the X axis gantry to the Z lead screws (yes, 2 of them) might come malformed. They did for me. I had to gouge out the threads at the bottom of one of them, make them wider and deeper. It was binding one side of the Z axis so tight it couldn't move. And yes, they are 3 day shipping two more of those nuts to me at no cost, but they won't be here till Wednesday and I wanted to start printing NOW. View Quote |
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Quoted: $750 + $50 shipping from Prague, Czechia for the kit. It's $1,000 for the prebuilt printer, probably same amount for shipping, but don't assume. I'd probably buy the prebuilt if I had to do it again, maybe. That extra $250 is a lot of scratch. But when you buy the kit, it is a kit. no two parts are put together. There's a lot of cleaning out screw holes, and the threaded plastic nuts that mount the X axis gantry to the Z lead screws (yes, 2 of them) might come malformed. They did for me. I had to gouge out the threads at the bottom of one of them, make them wider and deeper. It was binding one side of the Z axis so tight it couldn't move. And yes, they are 3 day shipping two more of those nuts to me at no cost, but they won't be here till Wednesday and I wanted to start printing NOW. |
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I have found that getting the supports to work just right can turn a good print into something that has a real bad 5'oclock shadow.
I was looking at the new prusa multi plastic support setup for my printer. That way i can use the dissolve plastic which costs out of the world prices.... The new setup will use normal plastic supports up to about 1/4' before it hits the model. That way you use the cheap stuff until the last second. from what i remember support for that type of printing is still in development...so no rush on my part to buy the hardware yet. on some of the prints I have spent almost as much time getting the supports off the printed object as it was to print it. |
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I have found that getting the supports to work just right can turn a good print into something that has a real bad 5'oclock shadow. I was looking at the new prusa multi plastic support setup for my printer. That way i can use the dissolve plastic which costs out of the world prices.... The new setup will use normal plastic supports up to about 1/4' before it hits the model. That way you use the cheap stuff until the last second. from what i remember support for that type of printing is still in development...so no rush on my part to buy the hardware yet. on some of the prints I have spent almost as much time getting the supports off the printed object as it was to print it. View Quote |
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200?
Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. |
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200? Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. View Quote So..a cheap smartphone with shitty display resolution won't necessarily be the best option. Still though, that's actually a pretty clever gadget! |
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From what I understand about how these things work, the higher resolution your display is, the better performance you'll get on such a device. So..a cheap smartphone with shitty display resolution won't necessarily be the best option. Still though, that's actually a pretty clever gadget! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200? Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. So..a cheap smartphone with shitty display resolution won't necessarily be the best option. Still though, that's actually a pretty clever gadget! |
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From what I understand about how these things work, the higher resolution your display is, the better performance you'll get on such a device. So..a cheap smartphone with shitty display resolution won't necessarily be the best option. Still though, that's actually a pretty clever gadget! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200? Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. So..a cheap smartphone with shitty display resolution won't necessarily be the best option. Still though, that's actually a pretty clever gadget! My sights are set on the Anycubic Photon, but I might get one of these as well just to play around with. I seriously hope that it uses standard resin and can accept resin from multiple manufacturers. |
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Quoted: Resolution on the phone I linked is is "5.5 inch 2.5D IPS, HD Screen 1280*720 pixels". My sights are set on the Anycubic Photon, but I might get one of these as well just to play around with. I seriously hope that it uses standard resin and can accept resin from multiple manufacturers. View Quote The display in the Anycubic is something like 2560x1440. Double the numbers, 4x the pixels. It's like the difference between 1080p and 4k. Huuuuuge difference. Something with a resolution as low as what you linked might even have visible pixels on the prints. |
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That's actually worse than I was expecting it to be. The display in the Anycubic is something like 2560x1440. Double the numbers, 4x the pixels. It's like the difference between 1080p and 4k. Huuuuuge difference. Something with a resolution as low as what you linked might even have visible pixels on the prints. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Resolution on the phone I linked is is "5.5 inch 2.5D IPS, HD Screen 1280*720 pixels". My sights are set on the Anycubic Photon, but I might get one of these as well just to play around with. I seriously hope that it uses standard resin and can accept resin from multiple manufacturers. The display in the Anycubic is something like 2560x1440. Double the numbers, 4x the pixels. It's like the difference between 1080p and 4k. Huuuuuge difference. Something with a resolution as low as what you linked might even have visible pixels on the prints. I'm still going to get the Photon, but i will have to wait a bit on that. i can probably squeeze $100 out of the budget this year. |
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Quoted: Yeah, the Prusa MMU 2.0 (Multi Material Unit) can handle up to 5 different filaments at once. It may not be out until October. The price is currently listed at $300 IIRC. View Quote https://www.prusaprinters.org/multi-material-upgrade-2-0-is-here/ |
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Prusa announced they starting shipping production units on Thursday. I suspect there will be quite a backlog of orders. https://www.prusaprinters.org/multi-material-upgrade-2-0-is-here/ View Quote |
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200? Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. View Quote ONO! What happened to the OLO Smartphone 3D Printer Kickstarter? |
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It was originally supposed to be released in 2016, I think it's unlikely to ever be delivered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9bZllsrDkc View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Anyone interested in a resin printer for under $200? Check out the ONO Printer itself is $120 with a carry bag, or $100 with out it. You will need a smartphone with a screen size up to 5.8" to run the printer. An inexpensive smartphone can be had from Amazon for under $90. Project is currently accepting preorders. What am I missing here? This seems to be the perfect printer for a gamer who only wants to print miniatures. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9bZllsrDkc |
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I am almost ready to buy a creality 3D ender printer.
What are most people using for scanning drawings and making their designs come to life on this printer? I'm not really interested in expensive software at least not until I get used to printing. |
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I am almost ready to buy a creality 3D ender printer. What are most people using for scanning drawings and making their designs come to life on this printer? I'm not really interested in expensive software at least not until I get used to printing. View Quote I use 3ds max and solid works. |
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I am almost ready to buy a creality 3D ender printer. What are most people using for scanning drawings and making their designs come to life on this printer? I'm not really interested in expensive software at least not until I get used to printing. View Quote After looking into it though, the Tevo Flash is that same format, but much better electronics. The Ender is going to limit you pretty quick with whats inside, the Flash is much more modular and adaptable inside. Only a few $ more so I'll prob snag the Flash in the near future. For CAD stuff, do Fusion360 if you can. Its pretty powerful when you get a handle on it. The initial hump is a tough day or 2 to get over, but gets much easier after that. Tons of vids on how to do stuff. TinkerCAD is another popular one, but my head doesn't work this way. I prefer the workflow of Fusion. Try as many as you can find though and see which clicks easiest for you. Once you get one down, the others will come easier if you want to jump around. |
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i have been really happy with my tevo tornado, but understand one major thing with tevo... if you have issues they are useless for support of help.
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What did you run into that needed support?
I have a Tarantula, but never ran into anything that I needed help with. Excuse for upgrades if I did Gotta feeling any of the direct from China stuff is going to be pretty much the same though. |
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control board blew.
never got a response from them at all. not unusual based on the forums for them. they make decent stuff but it's pretty much on your own for issues and parts. that said i pretty much consider anything chicom based to be that way. |
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If that is your pic, Id suggest hosting it somewhere that scrubs the gps tag.
Ill have to look at the pro and see whats up, but prob just the stuff to get it on par with the Flash I would guess. 100 might be too much depending on what they threw in there. ETA: Boo on the ender pro. They added some fluff, but didnt touch the electronics where they are lacking. |
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i have been really happy with my tevo tornado, but understand one major thing with tevo... if you have issues they are useless for support of help. View Quote |
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The newer Ender 3's are a lot better than my pre order version and my "2nd gen" version. There's even an Ender 3 Pro now, but it's $100 more and I'm not really sure the upgrades are worth it. I've also picked up an Alfawise U20 (Gearbest in house copy of the CR10) and it's been excellent. At $279 you get a printer that's almost fully assembled, has a 300x300x450 build size, borosilicate glass plate (mine is dished, so I went to a 12x12 mirror square) and an LCD touch screen. All 3 of my printer are running in the room I'm typing this in. I'm printing out a job for a client on the U20 and the two Ender's are making shelf brackets so I can get all the filament off the floor. Edited to add https://www.dropbox.com/s/mtpt84ucbkbk1tm/2018-09-20%2015.24.32%20-%20Copy.jpg?raw=1 View Quote |
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i have pla become brittle in 24hrs here. this stuff hates humidity View Quote I will get one. I'm still working up my Fusion360 skills and all that but I'm really concerned about the humidity doing a number on the filaments. |
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I have some orange Hatchbox PLA that's been open for 2.5 years and I've not had any issues when printing with it. If Florida isn't humid then I don't know where else is.
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Quoted: The high humidity is one thing that really keeps me crunching ideas. I still have not ordered a 3d printer, had to use the birthday money for bills. I will get one. I'm still working up my Fusion360 skills and all that but I'm really concerned about the humidity doing a number on the filaments. View Quote Get some silica gel (cat litter and flower drying crystals from a craft store are commonly available substitutes if you can't get dedicated desiccant material) and a five gallon bucket with a seal, done. Make sure you dry the desiccant in the oven first (otherwise it may be saturated already). For extra protection, you could probably pre-purge the bucket with computer duster gas, should help remove some of the humidity. |
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I have some orange Hatchbox PLA that's been open for 2.5 years and I've not had any issues when printing with it. If Florida isn't humid then I don't know where else is. View Quote |
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Interesting Kickstarter for a Universal Nozzle Removal tool.
Please note that I have no pecuniary interest in this project. |
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Just picked up am Ender 3 upgraded with the glass plate and 5 extra nozzles from Amazon for $239. Put it together in about an hour or so. Wasnt really watching the time.
Now its time for the learning curve. I am a long time user of Autocad and 3DS Max so that part shouldnt be a problem. What are the common slicers everyone is using? Downloaded Slic3r and it seems pretty straight forward. Looking forward to playing with this quite a bit. I bought it to build some items for use in Sim Racing and Flight Sims mainly, but there are quite a few things I can use this for. |
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Alright guys, about 10 pages in and I decided I had to join the 3d printing master race.
I picked up an Creality Ender 3 Pro. Setup went smooth with preparing ahead of time with a lot of Youtube videos. As soon as it was assembled it presented some issues with frame wobble, bed wobble, and X gantry wobble. I already knew what to do by watching videos before hand. Once all of the eccentric bolts were tightened up and the side frame screws loosened then retightened she was rock solid. People also said it was noisy so I preordered stepper motor silencers and installed them right off of the bat. All you can hear is the fan and the occasional home printer style sounds. Ran the Dog bench at all stock settings and it came out really good minus the last 5 percent of the print. At the end it popped off of the bed so I stopped it. After that I upped the bed temp to 60* celcius, added a raft to all bases, and manually slowed down the feedrate (FR) on the display to 50% while it did the first few layers then back to 100% for the rest. Material is black 1.75mm Hatch PLA. Made some frame clips downloaded off of thingiverse, turned out good. Just made some corner guards for metal shelving from scratch on TinkerCad, then imported/sliced in Cura. This is pretty fun so far and besides the bed being just a hair low in the center (glass bed incoming), I give the Ender 3 pro 5 out of 5 stars . Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Welcome!
I hope you brought enough Shiner Bock for everybody? Love that beer. Best, JBR |
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Finally figured out the problems I was having with the Tevo Tarantula. The main cause was the slicer. I watched it print a few times and noticed on the 3rd and sometimes a layer higher up, it wouldn't increment the Z axis. It'd just start printing the next level at the same height. Then it would jam the extruder and that caused a whole set of problems by itself. The new slicer seemed to fix everything.
Got a question about the 3d bumpfire gadget. I'm now using Slic3r, what infill percentage to use and what pattern? Anything special for the supports or just go with default? |
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Quoted:
Finally figured out the problems I was having with the Tevo Tarantula. The main cause was the slicer. I watched it print a few times and noticed on the 3rd and sometimes a layer higher up, it wouldn't increment the Z axis. It'd just start printing the next level at the same height. Then it would jam the extruder and that caused a whole set of problems by itself. The new slicer seemed to fix everything. Got a question about the 3d bumpfire gadget. I'm now using Slic3r, what infill percentage to use and what pattern? Anything special for the supports or just go with default? View Quote |
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Anyone print this AR pistol stabilizer (the one down in the comments)?
https://grabcad.com/library/ar-15-pistol-cheek-rest-1 Looks kind of cool, I want to print it. Only thing is, at full size its too tall to print straight up in my Tarantula. Anyone forsee a problem with resizing it at 70% or 80% on the Z axis? |
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So this is getting pretty annoying. I get a lot of prints off of thingiverse, and more often than not, parts do not fit like they describe.
Some examples: I printed an SSD enclosure that came out much too small. The pins and press fit parts on the Destiny Ghost I printed were WAY too small. The dowels for a Destiny prop gun were at least 10mm too small. A 3D scanner bed I printed the parts were so tight that I still haven't gotten some of them to fit together. I know what you're thinking, that it's my printer that is the problem. So I printed a calibration cube and found my dimensions were less than 1% off. Okay, maybe that would be the issue, except that I've started designing my own parts in Fusion 360, and all of my designs print and fit just perfect. Granted, so far I've only designed 3 different prints, but all had press fit parts that fit perfectly. I also remixed a thingiverse file and cut the model in half to add a press fit joint so it could fit on my print bed. My press fit joint came out fine, but the other original press fit joints were loose! |
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So this is getting pretty annoying. I get a lot of prints off of thingiverse, and more often than not, parts do not fit like they describe. Some examples: I printed an SSD enclosure that came out much too small. The pins and press fit parts on the Destiny Ghost I printed were WAY too small. The dowels for a Destiny prop gun were at least 10mm too small. A 3D scanner bed I printed the parts were so tight that I still haven't gotten some of them to fit together. I know what you're thinking, that it's my printer that is the problem. So I printed a calibration cube and found my dimensions were less than 1% off. Okay, maybe that would be the issue, except that I've started designing my own parts in Fusion 360, and all of my designs print and fit just perfect. Granted, so far I've only designed 3 different prints, but all had press fit parts that fit perfectly. I also remixed a thingiverse file and cut the model in half to add a press fit joint so it could fit on my print bed. My press fit joint came out fine, but the other original press fit joints were loose! View Quote So its not just thingiverse engineers, its everywhere. |
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i find a lot of times this is filament specific. different brands have different properties. i have had some come out perfect and other WAY off. i have gotten to the point of making outer shells much thicker so i have more room for sanding and fitting.
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I picked up a Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus from MicroCenter. Setup was ezpz. It took me a while to level the bed though, which was definitely a user issue.
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I picked up a Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus from MicroCenter. Setup was ezpz. It took me a while to level the bed though, which was definitely a user issue. View Quote Love my i3 Plus, works great! |
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Anyone print this AR pistol stabilizer (the one down in the comments)? https://grabcad.com/library/ar-15-pistol-cheek-rest-1 Looks kind of cool, I want to print it. Only thing is, at full size its too tall to print straight up in my Tarantula. Anyone forsee a problem with resizing it at 70% or 80% on the Z axis? View Quote |
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So this is getting pretty annoying. I get a lot of prints off of thingiverse, and more often than not, parts do not fit like they describe. Some examples: I printed an SSD enclosure that came out much too small. The pins and press fit parts on the Destiny Ghost I printed were WAY too small. The dowels for a Destiny prop gun were at least 10mm too small. A 3D scanner bed I printed the parts were so tight that I still haven't gotten some of them to fit together. I know what you're thinking, that it's my printer that is the problem. So I printed a calibration cube and found my dimensions were less than 1% off. Okay, maybe that would be the issue, except that I've started designing my own parts in Fusion 360, and all of my designs print and fit just perfect. Granted, so far I've only designed 3 different prints, but all had press fit parts that fit perfectly. I also remixed a thingiverse file and cut the model in half to add a press fit joint so it could fit on my print bed. My press fit joint came out fine, but the other original press fit joints were loose! View Quote |
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Upgrade the carriage plate and you won't have to repeat that step near as often. Stock plate is flimsy sheetmetal. I used the Gulf Coast robotics one (off amazon), and also upgraded to their borosilicate glass bed. Love my i3 Plus, works great! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I picked up a Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus from MicroCenter. Setup was ezpz. It took me a while to level the bed though, which was definitely a user issue. Love my i3 Plus, works great! Buildtak is definitely growing on me. |
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Thingiverse engineers are not very good as you found out. Learn to do your own designs with Fusion 360 or if you have a student email get Inventor for free. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So this is getting pretty annoying. I get a lot of prints off of thingiverse, and more often than not, parts do not fit like they describe. Some examples: I printed an SSD enclosure that came out much too small. The pins and press fit parts on the Destiny Ghost I printed were WAY too small. The dowels for a Destiny prop gun were at least 10mm too small. A 3D scanner bed I printed the parts were so tight that I still haven't gotten some of them to fit together. I know what you're thinking, that it's my printer that is the problem. So I printed a calibration cube and found my dimensions were less than 1% off. Okay, maybe that would be the issue, except that I've started designing my own parts in Fusion 360, and all of my designs print and fit just perfect. Granted, so far I've only designed 3 different prints, but all had press fit parts that fit perfectly. I also remixed a thingiverse file and cut the model in half to add a press fit joint so it could fit on my print bed. My press fit joint came out fine, but the other original press fit joints were loose! |
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my wife has now discovered my printer and has me making shit for the scrapbooking friends. oh well it was a fun hobby while it lasted
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