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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:58:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Watched a doc on eiger last nite. Some dude did it in like 3hrs up the north face, only to die climbing everest.
 If anyone has documentary recommendations that are on youtube please post them up. I think ive watched just about everything about k2 and everest... |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:59:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And yet... very few people who actually follow climbing care anymore. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
That's exactly what I'm talking about. It is THE tallest. Not the coldest, not the hardest, not the most dangerous. Just the tallest. A place entirely by itself. Base camp is a mess - based on photos provided by the Mallory-Irvine recovery expedition. It makes sense that serious climbers would turn their attention elsewhere. I don't blame them. 
We're I a serious climber, instead of a lame battered old guy, I'd byte back out there & tackle Ranier & Denali like friends have done. However, I'm limited to my recliner most of the time these days.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:06:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holy crap, that is awesome dude.   |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:11:04 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks for the awesome pictures and stories guys. Great stuff.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:12:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Think I've posted the background before, but looks like Photobucket ate a bunch of stuff. In the K2 expedition, George Bell was the first to lose his footing in the chain reaction that was ultimately arrested by Pete Schoening. Schoening's belay saved the day, but it also saved everything that happened after that. Bell went on to have a son, also named George, and the younger Bell also became an avid climber. The younger Bell wrote an article that appeared in a 1992 issue of Climbing, titled The Forgotten Yosemite, about a phenomenal region of Canada that had sort of sat forgotten for decades after the brief flurry of first ascents. George went on to document and aggregate a lot of information on the region, recent ascents, and so forth, and in doing so, was instrumental in the success of a lot of parties that went in there in the 1990s. I had a number of conversations with George over the phone and we realize that we had two similar, geographically linked photographs, but separated by about a decade in time. On the left is George's photograph, and the second photo from the left is mine. George's photo is looking at the peak from where I took my photo, and my photo is facing where George was when he took his. And, George has a copy of my photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/_DSC7930Az_-_1024-440594.jpg Additionally, unknown to me at the time, a friend of mine from the same small town in Virginia happened to be about dozen or so miles north of us, also halfway up a granite wall, but socked with 17 inches of snow, a far cry from the few inches we received on the periphery of the storm. So, yeah, thanks to Pete for saving George's father's life, and thanks to everyone like them that inspired those that went on to follow somewhat similar footsteps. My cousin made an attempt on Lotus Flower Tower, turned around by weather on the 10th pitch. She and her friends went there to spread their friend's ashes (they did). |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:26:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You think Annapurna climbers are crazy, check out Nanga Parbat. I believe Mark Watney climbed it. 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:30:40 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You think Nanga Parbat climbers are crazy, check out Mons Olymus I believe Mark Watney climbed it.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:30:51 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You think Nanga Parbat climbers are crazy, check out Mons Olymus I believe Mark Watney climbed it. I hear the approach is a real bitch |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 10:42:08 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Leave it to the Chinese they would probably build a tram to the top of Everest. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
After the ice fall killed all those sherpas, more people are climbing Everest from the Chinese side. Besides, you can now drive your car to the Everest base camp (on the Chinese side). http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/files/2016/05/paved-road-everest-base-camp-tibet.jpg Turn left to go to Everest: http://www.watchtheworld.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/photo-base-camp-everest-china-1.jpg Youtube: Driving in China/Drive to Mt.Everest Base Camp Mt. Everest Climb from North Side 2016 Besides, you now have cell coverage on Mount Everest. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 4:09:10 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, they were on their way to suicide before he died. That is not a good thing. Noble self-sacrifice dying to save an unsaveable victim is not noble or smart. If your point is that the Everest climbers should have died to try to save another when they know it is not going to work, you are simply wrong. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: A bad example of what? A climbing TEAM putting their humanity above summiting? 
Because that was my point. They put their own lives on the line for their fellow man. If your point is that the Everest climbers should have died to try to save another when they know it is not going to work, you are simply wrong. Of course attempting to haul Gilkey down from K2 wasn't "safe". But he was their team member and they chose to put their own lives on the line to try to bring him down. Excuse me if the 1953 American K2 expedition stands apart as an ideal to me that walking past a dying climber on your way UP to bag a littered summit does not. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 4:11:50 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I flew from Atlanta to Detroit to Amsterdam to New Delhi to Kathmandu to Lukla. From there I started my trek... Ramp in Lukla. The worlds most dangerous airport. http://i66.tinypic.com/e0h3y8.jpg Aircraft that brought us in. Dornier Do 228 http://i66.tinypic.com/11spndi.jpg This is "Arthur" I don't know his real name. I made friends with him shortly after arriving by feeding him a hardboiled egg. He followed and slept with me for the entirety of the trip. Yes... I fed him. The locals informed me that this was his modus operandi and that I was the lucky one to be chosen. http://i67.tinypic.com/10n7pfl.jpg Some of the grub along the way. http://i64.tinypic.com/15pfort.jpg Typical trail along the way. I was in shorts and a t-shirt for the first two weeks. I even got a sunburn. http://i67.tinypic.com/10opiro.jpg More trail views. http://i65.tinypic.com/of7wur.jpg Namche Bazaar (3440 meters) Stayed here a few days for acclimation. Even found a billiards table that a guy carried up on his back. Amazing. http://i67.tinypic.com/53tdh3.jpg A younger me. http://i65.tinypic.com/2ljgfeq.jpg Radio / Weather Equipment (5550 meters) http://i64.tinypic.com/289eq0p.jpg Prayer Rock (Everest Base Camp) http://i67.tinypic.com/24vqyxe.jpg Acclimation Day. Kala Patthar summited. http://i68.tinypic.com/nnljd5.jpg Me exhausted after carrying a 17 year old girl down the mountain after she passed out. She suffered from AMS. Returned her to Gorak Shep. http://i67.tinypic.com/o69nd0.jpg Me again in a tea hut I stayed at along the way. Don't recall the location at the moment. http://i63.tinypic.com/246kgec.jpg Everest in all her glory. http://i64.tinypic.com/vzhnhd.jpg ETA - Sorry guys. Tried to make the pictures visible.
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Posted: 2/4/2018 4:41:06 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Awesome pics! Lukla airstrip is so freaking awesome. Would love to fly into that one. I've done it plenty in Flight Sim X! |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 4:48:08 AM EDT
[#13]
Expedition to recover three bodies.
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/12/18/sports/everest-deaths.html |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 5:58:31 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Into Thin Air, a year after it was first published. The bag at the far right of the photo? Here's that bag about 8 days later .... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/climbing_027Cz-434566.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does reading one of Krakauer's books sitting next to a colleague of one of those "tour guides" count? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/_DSC0003Az-434535.jpg The bag at the far right of the photo? Here's that bag about 8 days later .... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/climbing_027Cz-434566.jpg |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 10:33:58 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:Fish? |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:20:52 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Expedition to recover three bodies. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/12/18/sports/everest-deaths.html She believes she would have died, too, if not for Leslie Binns, a British climber who was ascending above Camp 4 when he found her with her mittens off and her jacket unzipped. He gave her a shot of oxygen, which lifted her energy, but soon realized she would not make it to Camp 4 on her own. He aborted his own summit attempt to drag, encourage and cajole her downhill." Some mountaineers still believe in aiding there fellow climbers. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:28:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: "“I told Goutam, ‘You must come,’ ” she said in the living room of her home near Kolkata. “I thought if I started moving downward, he would follow me. I had neither the strength to help him or to even look behind me to make sure he was coming.” She believes she would have died, too, if not for Leslie Binns, a British climber who was ascending above Camp 4 when he found her with her mittens off and her jacket unzipped. He gave her a shot of oxygen, which lifted her energy, but soon realized she would not make it to Camp 4 on her own. He aborted his own summit attempt to drag, encourage and cajole her downhill." Some mountaineers still believe in aiding there fellow climbers. For those who tldr'd that article; Her friend made it to Camp IV in the middle of the night yelling incoherently, nobody even investigated, leaving him exposed for hours more (he later died descending from Camp IV). Their whole expedition was a clusterfuck including passive/inexperienced sherpas who let the clients drive (poorly) then left them (more than once!). |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:29:41 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you think Everest climbers are crazy, check out K2 I respect the hell out of these guys. 
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:33:37 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yea... Leslie Binns helped her after others walked by her and her friend on their way up. Her friend made it to Camp IV in the middle of the night yelling incoherently, nobody even investigated, leaving him exposed for hours more. Their whole expedition was a clusterfuck including passive/inexperienced sherpas who let the clients drive (poorly) then left them (more than once!). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: "“I told Goutam, ‘You must come,’ ” she said in the living room of her home near Kolkata. “I thought if I started moving downward, he would follow me. I had neither the strength to help him or to even look behind me to make sure he was coming.” She believes she would have died, too, if not for Leslie Binns, a British climber who was ascending above Camp 4 when he found her with her mittens off and her jacket unzipped. He gave her a shot of oxygen, which lifted her energy, but soon realized she would not make it to Camp 4 on her own. He aborted his own summit attempt to drag, encourage and cajole her downhill." Some mountaineers still believe in aiding there fellow climbers. Her friend made it to Camp IV in the middle of the night yelling incoherently, nobody even investigated, leaving him exposed for hours more. Their whole expedition was a clusterfuck including passive/inexperienced sherpas who let the clients drive (poorly) then left them (more than once!). |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:38:47 PM EDT
[#20]
The take away from what climbing Everest has become is that Hillary and Norgay were true men. Balls of steel on the both of them.
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:43:35 PM EDT
[#21]
Well, this thread has made me watch Meru and Everest (2015) both this weekend. I've learned more in a few days about Everest and mountaineering than I had in the previous 39 years. Very interesting stuff, really good movies. People that can climb up mountains...I am not one of them, and I'm ok with that.
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:54:12 PM EDT
[#22]
I watched the documentary The Eiger Sanction this morning. Very informative.
They tried to drag a dead, old Italian guy back down the hill. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 6:55:15 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, this thread has made me watch Meru and Everest (2015) both this weekend. I've learned more in a few days about Everest and mountaineering than I had in the previous 39 years. Very interesting stuff, really good movies. People that can climb up mountains...I am not one of them, and I'm ok with that. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:08:37 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went for 37 days in 2012 on a whim. I had the time off from work after I was removed from the schedule so a new hire could be trained. I left the day after I found out I would have that much time off work. I did zero prep. I had no idea what I was doing. I didn't summit and I had no intention to do so. I made it up to just over 6500 meters without any problems and with zero oxygen or assistance. I carried my own gear and food and I was solo. Was it smart? Probably not. Was it one of the best trips of my life? Undoubtedly. It's hard to explain. You're either a mountain person or you're not. I'd go again if given the time. 
Appropriate: South Side of the Sky eta Great pics!!! |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:22:00 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Very cool. I have always been fascinated with Everest and K2, and the people who tackle them. I really don't know why. I've read and watched everything I can find. I'd love to go there just to go to the lower base camp and look up at that magnificent icy desolation. It gives me chills just thinking about it.
Appropriate: South Side of the Sky eta Great pics!!! Everest BC would be neat too, but you don't get to behold Everest's full glory from the south like you do K2 from most directions. I would also like to circumnavigate the Annapurna and Kangchenjunga massifs. And while we're fantasizing here... it would be awesome to penetrate Nanda Devi's inner sactuary and behold that hidden treasure. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:23:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: "“I told Goutam, ‘You must come,’ ” she said in the living room of her home near Kolkata. “I thought if I started moving downward, he would follow me. I had neither the strength to help him or to even look behind me to make sure he was coming.” She believes she would have died, too, if not for Leslie Binns, a British climber who was ascending above Camp 4 when he found her with her mittens off and her jacket unzipped. He gave her a shot of oxygen, which lifted her energy, but soon realized she would not make it to Camp 4 on her own. He aborted his own summit attempt to drag, encourage and cajole her downhill." Some mountaineers still believe in aiding there fellow climbers.
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:24:08 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
But 6.5% of those who drive them don't die from doing so. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Far more people die on interstate highways every year. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:50:09 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My dream is to explore the Shaksgam Valley north of K2, and then stand near the base of the north face of K2 and be stupified trying behold the utter magnificence of it. The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat would be something else to behold as well. Or camping at Fairy Meadows there. Everest BC would be neat too, but you don't get to behold Everest's full glory from the south like you do K2 from most directions. I would also like to circumnavigate the Annapurna and Kangchenjunga massifs. And while we're fantasizing here... it would be awesome to penetrate Nanda Devi's inner sactuary and behold that hidden treasure. I'm just trying to figure out how to get time to hunt deer and elk this fall. 8,000 meter peaks really are the other side of the world. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 9:04:27 PM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 2/4/2018 9:37:10 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Word. I'm just trying to figure out how to get time to hunt deer and elk this fall. 8,000 meter peaks really are the other side of the world. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 9:41:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a bit windy on the Hillary Step https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18677/hillary_step-441731.JPG |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 9:54:51 PM EDT
[#32]
Just watched Meru.
Pretty damn cool |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 10:08:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible. 4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else. Who's going to team up with whom? Who's going to dare follow so and so? Who's on a fools errand? It's some pretty intangible stuff. It's a book in of itself. |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 12:51:44 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The non-climber in me doesn't understand this. And no, I'm not trying to start anything. Doesn't it come down to climb the mountain or don't? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible. 4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else. Who's going to team up with whom? Who's going to dare follow so and so? Who's on a fools errand? It's some pretty intangible stuff. It's a book in of itself. But, that's easier said than done when you are seeing your very heroes getting shut down around you. You've got a poster of that dude in your training room, and now you're saying you are going to go first? |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 12:57:29 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a bit windy on the Hillary Step https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18677/hillary_step-441731.JPG Everyone sees the sort of smiling photos at the top and such ... ... but nobody takes photos when the getting is tough. |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 1:22:21 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kind of sums it up. Everyone sees the sort of smiling photos at the top and such ... ... but nobody takes photos when the getting is tough. |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 1:32:20 AM EDT
[#37]
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Posted: 2/5/2018 3:26:20 PM EDT
[#38]
Found this video of a 2016 North Face climb. The pucker factor is a little high at times. I was with the man in spirit until about 53:50...then nope.
Still, I am in awe of the folks with the will to accomplish it. Amazing. Mt. Everest Climb |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 5:12:29 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Found this video of a 2016 North Face climb. The pucker factor is a little high at times. I was with the man in spirit until about 53:50...then nope.
Still, I am in awe of the folks with the will to accomplish it. Amazing. Mt. Everest Climb |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 5:17:44 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone want to go up to the top and take a crazy carpet back down  Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 5:18:46 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Found this video of a 2016 North Face climb. The pucker factor is a little high at times. I was with the man in spirit until about 53:50...then nope.
Still, I am in awe of the folks with the will to accomplish it. Amazing. Mt. Everest Climb |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 5:19:31 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You just don't get it... Of course attempting to haul Gilkey down from K2 wasn't "safe". But he was their team member and they chose to put their own lives on the line to try to bring him down. Excuse me if the 1953 American K2 expedition stands apart as an ideal to me that walking past a dying climber on your way UP to bag a littered summit does not. You may have never put yourself in that situation, or you may be too selfish to put yourself in that situation, but some of us have done so. We expect no-one to drag our barely-alive bodies or dead corpses back. |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 6:25:59 PM EDT
[#43]
 Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 2/5/2018 8:47:13 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryIt wasn't from the summit, he started his run just above 8000 meters. He may have only been just a bit above Camp 4 when he started his run. Keep in mind that Everest is nearly 9000 meters.
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Posted: 2/6/2018 12:12:58 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistorySince he didn't do it during WWII that racial slur is not acceptable!
Yuichuro did that in 1970... first skier really that high (it wasn't a summit descent)... the fall in that movie was nearly fatal. What is more of note is Yuichuro is the OLDEST summiter of Everest at AGE 80 in 2013 (after two heart surgeries!!!) First summit descent on skis was Slovenian Davo Karnicar in 2000... summit to base camp. 
Davo on Kumbu First woman was American Kit DesLauriers (with her husband Rob and also Jimmy Chin) in 2006. Actually, first Americans to ski Everest period. Badass American freeskiers and ski mountaineers all around! 
Kit above the Hilary Step She actually has the first ski descents of the Seven Summits and an overall insane ski mountaineering resume (hell she met Rob in the Altai). Also, she won the Freeskiing World Tour two years in a row! Used to have a bit of a ski hero crush on her: 
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Posted: 2/6/2018 12:53:54 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone who goes up that mountain - along with a good number of other activities - readily accepts death as a possibility, and expects no-one to risk their lives to save them. You may have never put yourself in that situation, or you may be too selfish to put yourself in that situation, but some of us have done so. We expect no-one to drag our barely-alive bodies or dead corpses back. Plenty of people who have been up that mountain have said (and done) humanity over summit. So what is this "we"? |
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Posted: 2/6/2018 1:05:31 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since he didn't do it during WWII that racial slur is not acceptable! |
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Posted: 2/6/2018 1:33:11 AM EDT
[#48]
^generally considered fighting words for... I dunno... 70 years?
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Posted: 2/6/2018 10:27:27 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
"Jap" is a racial slur now? Or does my meter need recalibration? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Since he didn't do it during WWII that racial slur is not acceptable! |
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Posted: 2/6/2018 12:08:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's been a derogatory term for people of Japanese descent and for Asians in general for decades if not longer. |
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