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Anybody running suppressor covers on their AEM5/OPS12/OCM5?
Getting pretty wicked mirage |
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Originally Posted By slowkota1: Anybody running suppressor covers on their AEM5/OPS12/OCM5? Getting pretty wicked mirage View Quote ADCO is making them |
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Originally Posted By Embittered: Just save yourself the hassle of trying 5 different covers and get one made by Liberty’s Defense. View Quote Aw hell naw! I just need something to kill mirage for slow fire 5 shot groups. Maybe if I was a serious PRS competitor.... But nah. That ADCO one looks decent for my needs |
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Originally Posted By SchlaffTablett: Nice! Is that a 12.5? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SchlaffTablett: Originally Posted By drew_red: https://i.imgur.com/XsQEumq.jpeg Nice! Is that a 12.5? A 6.5C Gordy build would be something |
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Originally Posted By SchlaffTablett: Nice! Is that a 12.5? View Quote It is, 12.5" Centurion 6 ARC. In the photo is the .880 block, but it wasn't agreeing with my handguard length, which I'd cut as much as I was comfortable with. The fellas at AEM suggested I run your 1.04", which I've now installed, and it's sitting proudly beyond the handguard. Crush washer or some thick shims should do the trick on the brake. |
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: https://i.imgur.com/CDmJcAB.jpeg Got the Gordy build together. Unfortunately, I’m having some concentricity issues. View Quote How so? ETA: How do you know? |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: How so? View Quote Ran an alignment rod down the barrel, and it is almost making contact with the right side of the AEM5. The rod also runs closer to the right when just looking at the brake. Tried it with a Griffin and AAC can/mount, and same results. By the way, the collar you sent works great. Thanks again! Edit: My original post said the threads are concentric. Meant to say they aren’t concentric. |
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: Ran an alignment rod down the barrel, and it is almost making contact with the right side of the AEM5. The rod also runs closer to the right when just looking at the brake. Tried it with a Griffin and AAC can/mount, and same results. By the way, the collar you sent works great. Thanks again! Edit: My original post said the threads are concentric. Meant to say they aren’t concentric. View Quote IMO, Alignment rods are basically worthless. Too many variables. Your threads can be concentric and you bore several inches in the barrel can be off 20 thousandths. You mounted an AE brake, Griffin brake and AAC with their cans on that same barrel and they all touch the alignment rod on on the right side of the endcap? |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: IMO, Alignment rods are basically worthless. Too many variables. Your threads can be concentric and you bore several inches in the barrel can be off 20 thousandths. You mounted an AE brake, Griffin brake and AAC with their cans on that same barrel and they all touch the alignment rod on on the right side of the endcap? View Quote Yes sir. That’s what made me think it was the threads. |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Or the alignment rod is bent, or you have a out of alignment bore at the other end of the rod. Do you reload? Do you have an unprimed piece of sized brass? View Quote Rod doesn’t seem bent, but I guess unaligned bore could be possible. It’s an FN barrel I had cut down. Unfortunately, I don’t have any brass. |
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An anvil mic with a .217 or .218 gage pin works pretty good for checking the concentricity.
RonA |
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Originally Posted By bigbore: or you have a out of alignment bore at the other end of the rod. View Quote This is my bet. Happened to me: threads were concentric and all that checked out by the competent gunsmith who cut the barrel, but I got consistent bias to one side on all mounted devices and cans. “Banana bore” it’s called. |
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: Yes sir. That’s what made me think it was the threads. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cdholmes: Originally Posted By bigbore: IMO, Alignment rods are basically worthless. Too many variables. Your threads can be concentric and you bore several inches in the barrel can be off 20 thousandths. You mounted an AE brake, Griffin brake and AAC with their cans on that same barrel and they all touch the alignment rod on on the right side of the endcap? Yes sir. That’s what made me think it was the threads. You're looking at the alignment rod while holding the upper vertically yes? Try spinning the alignment rod in the barrel and see if it wobbles around the bore of the suppressor. |
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Battle not with monsters, lest ye become a monster.
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Originally Posted By slowkota1: Aw hell naw! I just need something to kill mirage for slow fire 5 shot groups. Maybe if I was a serious PRS competitor.... But nah. That ADCO one looks decent for my needs View Quote I just got back from prairie dogging in South Dakota and I didn't have any issues with mirage with their cover installed. |
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Can someone check my math?
- 16” mid-gas will work with AEM5 and A mount - 16” rifle gas will work with AEM4 with B mount OR AEM5 with Allegheny gas block - 18” rifle gas works with AEM5 and A mount Trying to build a 6 ARC Mod H, but needing to verify fit before ordering the custom can and having the barrel spun up. |
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16.5ish with a tapered gas block, rifle gas and the 12th model mounting system.
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On their site they say 16.5 with 1.1” and 16.56 with 1.04” and that makes no sense to me. I told the machinist doing mine to look up the print and measure from the taper.
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Scott: On their site they say 16.5 with 1.1” and 16.56 with 1.04” and that makes no sense to me. I told the machinist doing mine to look up the print and measure from the taper. View Quote Makes sense, thanks! Going to have Craddock spin one up for me, so I will discuss with them. |
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I’d ask them to mount the block to be sure.
Mines an AE22 so I’m going straight to 5/8 threads. They ship with an adapter. |
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Originally Posted By bigbore: no. you need to remove the bayonet lug and make a flush fitting collar to the FSB View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Originally Posted By Number0neGun: The two piece collar that goes with the M4/Gordon cans, will that work on an 11.5" gun being set up for an AEM4? Gun in question is using a Colt barrel with a fixed front sight base. no. you need to remove the bayonet lug and make a flush fitting collar to the FSB Is that something you guys can do? |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By oldbrowndog: Can someone check my math? - 16” mid-gas will work with AEM5 and A mount - 16” rifle gas will work with AEM4 with B mount OR AEM5 with Allegheny Arms gas block - 18” rifle gas works with AEM5 and A mount Trying to build a 6 ARC Mod H, but needing to verify fit before ordering the custom can and having the barrel spun up. View Quote You can make 1 & 3 work no problem assuming you get the collar sized correctly and the correct length shoulder cut. Our .880 block, OEM brake (or our short brake) and 16 rifle gas barrel will work with the B mount. You can use the .880 block with our extended brake and 16" rifle gas barrel to mount an A mount. If you're going for a ModH, I'd just do the original Mid gas 16" and have the collar or barrel cut for whatever can you'd like. |
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Originally Posted By SchlaffTablett: You can make 1 & 3 work no problem assuming you get the collar sized correctly and the correct length shoulder cut. Our .880 block, OEM brake (or our short brake) and 16 rifle gas barrel will work with the B mount. You can use the .880 block with our extended brake and 16" rifle gas barrel to mount an A mount. If you're going for a ModH, I'd just do the original Mid gas 16" and have the collar or barrel cut for whatever can you'd like. View Quote I ordered a 1.04” block and sent it to Craddock already to have them make the barrel fit. Might have to switch that to a 0.880” so I can use your extended brake. The issue with mid-gas is that 6ARC plays better with rifle gas, and I’d prefer to use that if possible. |
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Originally Posted By oldbrowndog: I ordered a 1.04” block and sent it to Craddock already to have them make the barrel fit. Might have to switch that to a 0.880” so I can use your extended brake. The issue with mid-gas is that 6ARC plays better with rifle gas, and I’d prefer to use that if possible. View Quote I gotcha. You can have them give me a call if they have any questions on the block and if they need something different, we can exchange the one you got already. |
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Quick check to make sure I'm on the right track. 14.5" barrel plus pinned and welded AE brake equals 16", correct?
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I killed a bacon puppy. :(
This post is brought to you by The Pogues, the official punk band of the .mil forums. |
Yep.
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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I could use some advice.
I am planning to build a compact 300Blk and I have a rail that will enclose most of the can...think MP5SD. I need a thread on can so that I can remove it without accessing the base of the can to unlock a latch or similar...so I was thinking an AE can would work...maybe. Question...I need a short barrel in 300Blk but one with enough length to allow the AE can to mount correctly. What barrel and what can, with the goal of short/light but still reliable. |
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Originally Posted By FedDC: I could use some advice. I am planning to build a compact 300Blk and I have a rail that will enclose most of the can...think MP5SD. I need a thread on can so that I can remove it without accessing the base of the can to unlock a latch or similar...so I was thinking an AE can would work...maybe. Question...I need a short barrel in 300Blk but one with enough length to allow the AE can to mount correctly. What barrel and what can, with the goal of short/light but still reliable. View Quote I'd get a DD 10.3" barrel and a SiCo 9mm can. A 9mm can will work better than an OPS/AE can and fit under way more rail options. Pick your rail then cut the barrel to fit. |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: I'd get a DD 10.3" barrel and a SiCo 9mm can. A 9mm can will work better than an OPS/AE can and fit under way more rail options. Pick your rail then cut the barrel to fit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Originally Posted By FedDC: I could use some advice. I am planning to build a compact 300Blk and I have a rail that will enclose most of the can...think MP5SD. I need a thread on can so that I can remove it without accessing the base of the can to unlock a latch or similar...so I was thinking an AE can would work...maybe. Question...I need a short barrel in 300Blk but one with enough length to allow the AE can to mount correctly. What barrel and what can, with the goal of short/light but still reliable. I'd get a DD 10.3" barrel and a SiCo 9mm can. A 9mm can will work better than an OPS/AE can and fit under way more rail options. Pick your rail then cut the barrel to fit. If I recall correctly, a 7.5" pistol gas barrel has the same distance to the muzzle as a 10.5" carbine gas. So, he could do an AEM4 with a custom 30-cal bore and a taper gas block or short collar. |
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Originally Posted By SpyHawk: If I recall correctly, a 7.5" pistol gas barrel has the same distance to the muzzle as a 10.5" carbine gas. So, he could do an AEM4 with a custom 30-cal bore and a taper gas block or short collar. View Quote Yes, and it would be heavy and loud. IMO, OPS/AE cans kinda suck with subsonic 300BLK compared to standard 9mm K Baffle designs. Better tools for different jobs. |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Yes, and it would be heavy and loud. IMO, OPS/AE cans kinda suck with subsonic 300BLK compared to standard 9mm K Baffle designs. Better tools for different jobs. View Quote This. Get a titanium large volume can for subsonic blackout use. Although my AEM5-30 worked the Nomad LT is better in every way. |
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An AEM is certainly going to be louder than it would be using a K baffle or even some cone baffle cans but if you really need / want to use an Allen, you can do an AEM4 in .30 with our .880 block and short brake for a drop on fit on a 7.5" or an AEM5-30 with the .880 and our long reach brake.
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Originally Posted By FedDC: I could use some advice. I am planning to build a compact 300Blk and I have a rail that will enclose most of the can...think MP5SD. I need a thread on can so that I can remove it without accessing the base of the can to unlock a latch or similar...so I was thinking an AE can would work...maybe. Question...I need a short barrel in 300Blk but one with enough length to allow the AE can to mount correctly. What barrel and what can, with the goal of short/light but still reliable. View Quote A can with HUB threading paired with a Rearden atlas mount and muzzle device. Or just straight up Direct Thread, since you won't be shooting it without a can anyways... Save a lil weight and money. |
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Originally Posted By slowkota1: A can with HUB threading paired with a Rearden atlas mount and muzzle device. Or just straight up Direct Thread, since you won't be shooting it without a can anyways... Save a lil weight and money. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By slowkota1: Originally Posted By FedDC: I could use some advice. I am planning to build a compact 300Blk and I have a rail that will enclose most of the can...think MP5SD. I need a thread on can so that I can remove it without accessing the base of the can to unlock a latch or similar...so I was thinking an AE can would work...maybe. Question...I need a short barrel in 300Blk but one with enough length to allow the AE can to mount correctly. What barrel and what can, with the goal of short/light but still reliable. A can with HUB threading paired with a Rearden atlas mount and muzzle device. Or just straight up Direct Thread, since you won't be shooting it without a can anyways... Save a lil weight and money. To be fair, I love my Ops can, but use my cheap Rex Silentium for my 300blk. I'm just saying, "it's possible" That said, if someone mostly shot supers and not subs, I would imagine that a 30 cal Ops/AEM would be good to go. |
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Originally Posted By --FLEET--: https://i.imgur.com/pnpEc3d.jpg View Quote I’ll bite, are those all clone builds, or AE inspired fever dreams turned into metal and optics? |
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Would a Gordon M4 fit on a BCM 14.5 m4 flat top upper?
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Originally Posted By --FLEET--: Yes and yes. With varying degrees of clone correctness View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By --FLEET--: Originally Posted By towerofpower94: I’ll bite, are those all clone builds, or AE inspired fever dreams turned into metal and optics? Yes and yes. With varying degrees of clone correctness Very cool. Kind of a GWOT/steam punk/ARMS catalogue mash up collection |
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I sell people a means to defend themselves.
UT, USA
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Originally Posted By bradpierson26:
So I know you're a SF whore . . . . . |
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